tacker

be careful as i killed 2 pumps as they say i did them to tight go figure

Padey, yes the standard G4 pads are 54mm radial depth, the pads i was running were AP ferodo DS 3000 compound which i got cheap :-) from a bloke selling left overs from the BTCC and they were only 46mm radial depth. Just thought i would try a known compound against the G4 track pad without spend 500$ for 54mm DS 3000 pads to suit the G4 caliper. Bit quick with the get what you pay for

might be the diff breather pipe hard to tell

A few questions on the standard oil temp guage. can anyone tell me what it reads in, C or F. How accurate are they? The reason being i have installed a remote filter and i installed another oil temp guage into this filter housing. Now i admit its not the best quality product but i was getting a lot of difference. Standard guage was telling me 120 or the marking below 150 so i think its 120 :-), while the new guage was telling me 90. Going to re check my soldering joints for a join of high resistance and will also do a hot water test with the new guage to see if its is working some where near what it should be. But that aside is there a chance of having some much difference if my soldering is up to scratch. Cheers

LOL nope no yellow stuff, they started life green they are the g4 performance pad. Have just finished a very solid 4 x 20 minute sessions to night at 40 degrees so will check the pads out see how the wear is but the ducts seem to have done the job with no fade but less see how the pads held up after the workout tonight.

try the rota brand cheap and lite weight plenty to choose from

mine are ok still have used once since last post

my 2860-5 start boosting about 3k

Nope i have gone to great lengths to make sure the duct clears the wheel at full lock pretty much followed the sway bar and castor rod into the middle of the wheel.

Do you mean the plastic inner guards or the steel section? Phunky check out the link. www.revotec.com

had to book mark that site! just in case i needed cheering up at some point in time.

do you have a Power fc if so do a sensor check

is there enough fuel and pressure? Do you have spark at all the plugs, has happen to me run fine one day and be missing on 2 or 3 next day due to dirty plugs?

spewin i did a DIY as asked but it just disapeared took longer to type than it did to do the mod

Step by step aproach. 1. big dose of boredom. 2. 2 x 76mm Revtec air outlet duct $37 with delivery. 3. 1 metre of 75mm flexible aluminum gas stove flue $20 for 3 metres i had some left over. 4. 80mm hole saw ( cheap multi sized hole saw for wood ) $8 from local hard ware. 5. 4 x self tapping screws $peanuts anywhere To start with check behind the bumper to make sure there will be no nasty surprises when you put the hole saw through. I checked and noticed that there is quite a large opening under the head light, to which i aimed the 2 ducts at so i could get them through the gap and under the pods. Which i should have measured first as its not big enough for 2 x 75mm ducts. I then removed a small strip of panel steel which is below the head light to make th opening larger. This was done with a set of tin snips and was 2 small cuts and i then had enough room for both ducts. I dont recommend this to guys with nice cars. You have 2 options at this point, either cut or just run the ducts to the point under the head light which points straight at the general pod area anyway. I think it would work just as well. Once you are sure that you have enough clearence behind the bar put 2 x 80mm holes into the bumper ensuring that these holes line up with the natural open under the head light in case you just want to run the ducts to this point only. Remeber to allow enough space between the 2 holes so the duct flanges dont overlap. After the holes are completed i then pushed the ducting over the outside of the duct inlet enough so that when i pushed the duct inlet into position there was enough aluminium duct caught between the bumper and the flange of the duct inlet that would allow the self tapping screws to go through the duct and be pulled up tight between the outside of the bumper and inside of the duct inlet. Some small 3.5 mm holes for the self tappers screw them in and all finished. Was no more than an hour from when i got the idea and completing it. Have attached a pic of the package the duct inlet come in ( hope i dont get another warning ) and inside where duct end under the pods

Cheers BB

Ok will post something in DIY later tonight. was only about 45 minutes work i had the alloy vents and the aluminium duct from another idea i had Vents were about 15$ each and 3 metres of duct was 20$ Bigger pic you can see the parts better Not sure if it has made a diff yet have to wait until i can get on the track next time. But has to be better than none at all :-)

Got bored last night so attacked the car and made some CAI

Could some please confirm that the front diff of a R32 GTR is non LSD. Also the rear diff is a non viscoious LSD and is mechanical. regards

Got my act together last night and finished the running of the brake ducts to the font brakes last night. Also as an after though i put in some CAI which i hope will work, i guess it got to help.

My old car is track only so not to sure how these setting will be in road car. Fronts 4 deg castor 5 deg- camber Cusco upper arms 1mm toe each side rear 1.5 -deg camber 1.5mm toe out each side lock bar in place. struts cusco front cusco three way strut cusco front tension rod ( inbetween the castor arm mounting point ). sway bars both cusco ohlin shocks It quite neutral in its handling unless to heavy on the throttle at apex then will under steer a little, very pleased though.

Any comments or thoughts on the spool conrods for an RB26

nope but if you go for a 32 . 52 . 11 . 15.5 seal your right on track

i had that too last time i had a passenger in the car on a trackday :-)

If anyone whats to know have found a replacement seal for the front RHS drive shaft, at least if anyone else has to try and find one you wont spend all day in the internet as i did.