tacker

would be checking fuses first

whoo hoo scored! Found a wrecking yard with lots of skylines in it.....bloody shame really when you think about it. But they do have the shafts and i have got mine out just need to get new seal where shaft goes into the diff housing. any idea what part number they are?

yep i have 2 RB25 AFM on my R32 GTR with Power FC, same plugs connected straight up

yer i guess but now all that common here though but i guess i should try. I can get second hand units though might try that.

Any good suggestions on who does an exchange item.

well if they are pulsing then you must have a huge fuel pressure to fill a cylinder so fast. I would try with the older injectors to see if the problem goes away, not a big job to swap those out first.

Guys, has anyone had any experience with using a oil to water heat exchanger as i am trying to find a better way to cool my oil down. Have 2 air oil coolers but think i could get it down further with one of the Motul oil to water exghangers.

No expert on this topic but it would be hard for injectors to pump enough fuel into a cylinder to hydrolic it in half a revolution. how much fuel pressure are you getting with new pump? and are the injectors constantly open rather than pulsing?

got mine for 320 new and delivered but non adjustable still happy enough with these and the improvement to the cars handling.

djr81, they are cusco neg 5 upper control arms and were about 32,000 yen, i can check on that though. You can get 2.5 as well not going to say where i got them as i got a warning last time i mentioned about a non sponsor but they were from Japan. You can PM me if you would like to know.

Sorry, yer if the wire coming back from your temp sensor to the temp gauge could have rubbed through and if its bouncing around making contact to earth and then bouncing away to open the short will give you the old needle back and forth.

I found these upper control arm with neg 5 deg camber made a big difference to understeer. Would not like to have them on the road though you would go through a few sets of fronts

Yer, here you go still have some work to do but nearly there. Just waiting on the alumimium mounting bits to arrive from the UK so i can run another duct to the other side of the rotor.

Geetr, mate i am told the controlers are quite good and i will look at that later in the year. But for now with the temps well over 40c here at the momment and still only just landed in summer, i was really pleased with the 92 engine temp last time out. I could not believe the difference it made.

mines about the same 3000 before any real boost starts to happen and i am using the 2860-5. Cam gears did make the difference though.

what rpm do they start developing boost?

You have a wire that is shorting to ground, thats what the gauge will do when shorted to earth. If these is no water in the system the needle will sit down on the big C. And if its a water pump take my word on it put an electric one in Much simpler to do and cools much better

Guys any pics of your local tracks would be interested to see them cut and paste the link and it should take you to my local track site. http://www.dubaiautodrome.com/general/content.aspx?id=36

yep have a look at the web site. http://www.dubaiautodrome.com/general/index.aspx

no kitty litter around this track just great big run off areas. didnt think about the belt breaking though, i seem to break water pumps more than anything else. Maybe a little mesh mounted above the cooler would do the trick.

Best way i can think to discribe is.... its a gift from the gods!!! I had my hand forced on thursday when for the second time in a month the water pump housing just cracked at the bottom this time and it was a N1 as well. So if it lasts longer than one track session i am quids in with my run with alloy water pumps. Brought the only possible soluiton ( electric as no other options here) even with having to repair the broken alloy housing. Thank the gods that i brought some alumimium solder, man does that stuff rock :-). We had to use the housing without the impeller so we removed the shaft and soldered a blanking plate over the end where we cut the bearing out of the housing. Covered the whole thing with a resin to made sure and connected the pump up which was about an hours work including the wiring. Any way first run was not good, car got real hot in about 2 minutes then read instructions tell us to remove the thermostat. Got 3rd degree burns removing the little sucker.....fixed! car temp on long track runs was down from 96 with the N1 to 92 even with a 4 degree hot ambient temp on the day ( 42 ). No fan even but was very careful woth that though and would suggest a small thermofan to deal with that side of slow movement or traffic. I brought the 110 litre/min unit it has its own small fan to keep it cool. Disco i can follow your thoughts on the alt failing but that still leaves the battery to run the pump . If the belt was to break driving the alt would be the same. Where as if the belt driving the the alt and the water pump was to break, would result in no pump at all and the alt light you can help but notice when the belt or water pump housing breaks in two as i have found out twice now. It not quite a plastic either its more like a fibre glass type material, you can see the fibre inforcment in the material. Any way it worked for me, very happy

Has anyone ever used one of these units as iwould like to see if my experience with them are the same.

i would say not to locate the oil cooler in the brake duct just going to give you other problems with brake cooling if you give it some track time. I am going to mount both my coolers to directly below the radiator as in the pic and have a better quaility duct made to direct the air flow. You can see in the pic the location i will place the second oil cooler or i might just purchase a bigger item and replace the two units in this location. You will also see the mounting of the water pump in this pic.

pics of rotor

i do but i will get a closer pic of them for you so you can see the little heat cracks.