tacker

Do R32 GTR's have a fluid to fluid oil cooler mounted on the drivers side of the sump?? Found something that looks like it has coolant circulating in and out of the sump the supply hoses are located next to the supply for the heater coil hoses

mate you really do need a wide band sensor for it to read in any meaningful time frame

At long last we have got our race series together has been a hard slog but we are there now with the new format being ran this weekend. Have upload the rules for your comments i guess and thoughts DAMC_Open_Saloon_Championshp_Regs__Published_Issue_1.pdf

Have 2 oil coolers in place and both are HKS units, one is on the LHS in front of the wheel while the other is located on the other side not quite straight up and down but a nice big duct directing plenty of air to it. Oil temps sit around 95 degrees. And i will try anything to see if i can sort this issue out so i will put a low temp thermostat to see if that helps at all. And i thought 100 on the engine outlet would be to hot feel much better if it was low 90's it the answer fans or ducted air to the radiator. I can cruise around for 20 minutes and not get hot ( 85 to 87 ) but when i start to push the speeds high than 160 the car starts to get hot. At what air speed do the thermofans and viscous fan stop drawing air into the radiator and forced air flow take over as it cant be possible for a fan to draw air in faster than 160 kms forced air flow surely???

nope not standard turbos Roy have the Garret 2860-5 units on now. Stock radiator would not handle the standard out from the engine had it cleaned etc but still got warm. I didnt have a problem with the JJ radiator leaking i never lost any coolant until the front of the water pump fell off due to a tight belt i am told. It has to be air flow, going to be sealing everything up to make sure all air goes through the radiator will put back standard fan and shroud and see what that does, and low temp thermostat on order.

yes it is why is that a problem?

ok i also know that to be true just a bit of a struggle to get it happen here. I have run a 3 core aluminium radiator with the stock fan, water pump and shroud still bumped into high 90's. I can run all day at 85 with no fan but short shift @ 6000, my question is at what speed does the stock fan stop being effective and air flow take over. Also what RPM does the fan stop spinning as i doubt it is still pulling air in at 230km or 7500 rpm. And IF that is the case would the shroud not be a restriction of that forced air flow? The track has only one second gear corner with sees the car in second for about 4 to 5 seconds so the slowest point of the track is about 65-70 kph would the fan still be pulling air through at that speed I had no problem at 30 degree but when it hit 40 + i have the issue and i would like find a solution. I guess the alloy radiator stock fan, stock shroud and N1 water pump will be the next conbination to try. I also forgot to mention i have a vented bonnet with the vent right behind the top of the radiator which i would hope draws the air through as well. comments please

nope stock set up didnt work, got hot too

I have an N1 pump already so i will look at the ducting as i could not disagree with you on the ducting is king Roy. The header tank i can get anything i want made as i have a really good contact in that regard, even though i know that if the cooling system is not good enough will not make any difference as it will still get hot at some time. Will also put another temp gauge in the intake and see the diff. What about the thermostat should that still be run, not worried about warming it up over here.

Yer i think its the lower half of the radiator needs fans as its blocked by the I/C The top half is getting enough clean air as there is nothing blocking the flow of air, and hitting 230kms really helps cooling air flow through the radiator you can see the temp drop about 10 seconds after finishing the straight at those speeds. I have no problem with warming the car up not tohard here in the middle east its always hot :-). Will increasing the amount of coolant and allow more cooling time in the radiator. I know the radiator is working ok as it had nearly 25 deg of temp difference between the top and bottom tanks

Duncun, got a surprise last week had a delivery of new bells and mounting bracket to remove the issue of the rotor touching even though was not an issue for me. I know what you mean about the street pads they performed great on the track but boy did i get through them in a hurry. Have the green track pads now and will run them next week in our first round of open saloon championship here in the middle east. Currently running some DS 3000 pads i got from a mate who is envolved with the BTCC so got a heap of run in pads to use but would like to try the green pads out and see how the perform. And Sayajin, Yesterday i had the porsche instructor and local radical cup champion take my old shitter out for a drive as he has been asking for some time. He chased down a GT3RS ( 996 ) not sure how good a driver the GT3 guy was but he did chase him down and and passed him. Dont get me wrong this guy is one of the better drivers i have seen, but he did pass comment on the brakes on said they are as good as his 997 GT3 RS ( not the carbon option ) but i think that the slick tyres may have helpped a lot and inflated their performance compared to his GT3RS. Point is i know they are not as good as the GT3 brakes and he was just a little excited ( Boost you know what i mean ) when he spoke with me but they are a great package for the old skyline. And yes they are still new so lets see how they go after a season but even so if i have to get new calipers so be it the as still very cheap compared to other options.

Guys after some views from yourselfs about engine temps and what it should be and where it should be measured. I am currently trying out 2 different radiators, i have a 4 core copper brass unit and a 2 core aluminium radiator. I run a track only R32 GTR around 400 AWHP so i dont have to take traffic stops in to account with an N1 water pump. Yesterday i ran the 4 core radiator without any fan in and day around 35deg and the car started to get a bit hot ( 100 ) at around the 15 minute mark of the 20 minute session. Would need to back off and short shift at 5000 rpm for a minute to see temps dropping back to 95 ish so the radiator is working ok. My question is where do i measure the water temp, currently it is measuring the outlet of the engine in the hose to the top of the radiator tank, is this correct? Or should i put the viscous fan back on and will this make any difference as the track has only one point where you drop back to second gear for about 4 seconds before changing up. or is a thermo fan a better option, if i put 2 smaller fans on the bottom half of the radiator where the air flow is not so good will this help? Also should the thermostat be removed as i have heard 2 different theories on this that it should be removed to allow more flow and it should be left in place as it slows the coolant flow through the radiator and allows the coolant longer in the radiator to cool more. Your thoughts also on expanding the radiator tanks to hold more coolant say an extra 3 to 4 litres which should allow the collant more time in the radiator to cool be fore being circulated back into the engine

yer willing to believe to be ham fisted me that caused it. N1 water pump on the way. just got to remove the balancer, cam belt etc etc

smooth as a baby bum lol! I must have done the belt too tight guess you live and learn.

yer big old smelly, nasty deisels. I am sure belt was not to tight still i guess that would be a reason for this happening but how tight must it have been to break that amount of cast alloy. And would that be possible with 1 little tensioning bolt. Pump was brand new when i put in on and i put the few kms on it without any issue, so it was never removed from any other engine. Thinking a N1 will now be put on as getting sick of removing cam belt etc to put pump in place only changed the last one as i put new cam belt on and thought i better do the right thing

yer would you believe i was just sitting at the control light waiting for it to go green to start track session and bang! Engine was only idling thank F#$5. Radiator got a bit of a touch up from the fan and engine got a bit hot but not to bad would hate to think what would have happened at 8000 rpm? I put it in and before you say it i have been working on engines for the last 22 years and this is a simple task. Try putting an oil pump or an oil cooling nozzle into a Cummins KTA 50G3 which are both the definition of bloody near impossible. The pump had already done some track time with no problem then bang

Hmm pump was only 60 kms old and belt was not all that tight, anyway chaly this one up to experience.

How the hell do you snap the front of a water pump clean off! I now have two parts as it did just explode, so badly i could pull the whole front with the fan attached off the car with my hand???

plugs would be the first thing to check. my car was fine when running one evening, next morning miss city new plugs all smiles again

Need some assistance please. I am trying to find and line diagram or outline diagram of an R32 gtr as i have to have my car wrapped for the sponsor and to design this they need the expanded outline view to design the scheme. Can anyone help out. regards

sadly you guys must be driving harder than me :-(

nope no problem with mine has over 2 hours track time since tunned, turbo fairies were good to me

dont know about driving around town as my car is not registered. But dont seem to have any shuffle what mods are you missing

tell me what i need to ask for when he does it again on saturday, the HP figure means little to me but a safe AFR does. Next time i will leave the arabic writting on the sheet so you can read that too :-) yer i reckon i can ask him to do that thanks for the info

yer i reckon so as well hence the reason i said in this thread over 400HP But fear not it is going back on the dyno on saturday as boost controller has arrived at last so what would you like to see as i dont know much about dynos. All the tunner from subzero did was lots of fiddling then pushed a few buttons on the dyno controler and reved the engine up to 8100 in 4th gear fiddled the ECU (or his laptop infact) a bit more did the 4th gear thing a few more times, then gave me the sheet. How the hell do you calibrate a dyno or know if its calibrated?