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well i got that all arse about then i insured the car Missus has never been the same sice we were married or was when i got the GTR cant remember now. Ps Chemist is all outa bandaids too

cheers dangerman. i have been doing the search thing again and found a link where they say the garrets have a restricter built in quite a few guys on here commented in that link that garret do have this restricter in place. So you were perfectly correct

Guys, do i need to restrict oil supply to ball bearing turbos or just connect up the old supply system. regards PS i did hit the search button.

They come out in the end and they will f%^&ing well go back in! turbo fairies have been back in touch and they are willing to put them back in without a drink, if only i take the missus back!!!! Wasnt sooo bad picking up empty beer cans so i am in 2 minds.

Well bugger me if the turbo fairies didnt come last night and remove my turbos. Think i might have made a deal with them when i bellowed i would give anything if these F$%^ing turbos would come off They did manage to drink all the pain relief i had at home and left the empties laying around the car. And the Missus is missing this morning as well, wonder if they took her as part of the deal. Which upsets me a little as now i have to pick up the empty beer cans myself.

matter of fact the pain relief is going to get used tonight stuff steps 9 through to 16.......no on second thoughts stuff them all Anyone want to buy a slightly used GTR????

Saliya, my poor old skinless knuckles disagree with ya on that one

What a sreaming b%#@^&$d of a job. and i started so it will be a recovery truck to get it to the god of turbo removal. PS i work on dirty smelly old deisel engines everyday and these engines were made for blokes with hands like a little kid. How the hell do you get the oil drain sepeated from the cartidge.

As per the Nissan workshop manual for an R32 GTR its 16 steps to remove a turbo....cops A%#E it is. My 16 step guide. 1. open bonnet 2. guess where some one hid the wee bloody things 3. stand around in sheer amaisement that they are where you thought they could not be 4. curse some snotty nose engineer who thought to put them there 5. purchase oxy set 6. purchase spanner set to replace all the spanner that are going to be modified to get to bolts / nuts 7. purchase box of bandaids as you just know your going to need them. 8. drive through bottle shop on way back from bandaid trip ( pain relief only ) 9. find 44 gallon of wd 40 and set up drip feed to whole rhs of engine compartment for at least a week to have any chance at all. 10. sit some where very quite for at least an hour to contemplate if you really really REALLY need so much horse power ( of course you do ) before starting. 11. ask yer mates if you really really need 500HP ( also ask if they are willing to help ) 12. Now you know who yer mates really really are and i bet they are the ones who have not remove the turbos on a GTR before! 13. close bonnet! 14. get yellow pages 15. Find some one who does this for a living ( silly bugger ) wait in sheer terror for the bill from the god of turbo removal. 16. open bill from god of turbo removal only after the entire content of step 8 have been consumed and that be thankful you had the wisdom to have the pain relief on hand before, cause you sure wont be able to afford and any for quite some time after. Right some one please send me a link to how to do this properly as i have searched and searched but all i could find was the removal of GTST turbos. regards

Yer not that easy over here, i guess i could find some one to rebuild them but no part available so would have to order them and wait. Think the new garrets maybe the more effective solution in this case Cheers all

Yer sorry about that in a bit of a rush to make my mind up.

As i dont want to run a big top end the smaller N1 would be more suitable. they are from a R34 and have a A/R of .48 Still the cost of rebuilding N1 turbos is almost the same a new Garrets

I dont want to run more than 1.2 bar as its on stock internals ( last engine died on .85 bar bloody stock turbos ) and big horse power is not the objective just want a good solid performance.

Anyone care to comment as i have to build a new engine. I have some N1's which will need a rebuild or some new garret 2860 -5

really couldnt fault them in my car which is stripped out so weight is down a little on a road legal car. With some cooling ducts and 1 hour between our 20 minute sessions. Also have porsche cup slicks on too which makes for a whole heap of stopping going on when you get on the pedal

would run rich i would think.

pics please

I currently got the 356mm fronts only with the performance pads. The kit itself was very easy to install went straight on with no issues. The lines seem a little long to be truthful but was not hard to run them out of the way. Better than being short i guess.

Used my G4 brake kit with a full set of slicks last night and they worked great! No brake fade, no cracked rotors and no burnt brake pads nice and constant the entire night ( 3 x 20 minute sessions ). Two very big stops on the circuit from around 230kms each, by far a stronger package than standard brakes.

even better cheers for that

Nope just wanted to see if i could get an old R32 to run before i buy it and i have one sitting at home thanks for the info

Guys, will a RB26 AFM work on a RB20 engine?

how hard are the old ones to press out?

check out the pic's http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=121344

Mate which rear spoiler does it have i thought i seen a pic where it has a boot lip?