tacker

Dave what spring rates are they

yes thats right

yes nice car will be looking start of april let me know if its not already gone by then.

How many km has it done please

What do you mean the mechanical pump was a second measure? as other have said it was needed to increase the pressure to run through stock injector. Also are HKS cams billet items as i am only knew to skylines and i dont want my glass camshafts to break

Why would it snap a cam shaft ? Its a ribbed belt so it doesnt need to be super tight. Surely compressing a valve spring would have more resistance than this pump. And if it was good enough for the Gibson GTR it will do me. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=121344 I would not think a mechanical pump would take anymore energy to drive at the same flow / pressure than a electric pump, both are gear pumps. But i guess there would be a little more parasitic losses caused fiction on the belt drive. But then again you still have a belt drive to your alternator which supplies your electric fuel pump and voltage drop as well to the fuel pump in the rear of the car.

not all that badly priced either, parts in the pic above are around 600$ which is about the price of a twin 044 set up with a swirl pot

has anyone seen or used a mechanical fuel pump such as this one. How 2,500 horses get fed. Capable of supporting 350 to 2,500 hp, these fuel pumps are made just for serious racers. They flow 2,700 lbs./hr. of fuel, deliver 2 to 200 psi worth of fuel pressure, and work with any type of fuel. That's enough fuel flow and pressure to support a 6-second drag car--fuel injected, blown, turbocharged, or otherwise! Their belt-driven design means there's no current draw, and the pumps require no priming. They have a billet aluminum housing and bracket, a -10 AN O-ring port, and an anodized finish.

LOL! replaced the brakes and car now has 18" wheels so so much for that LOL

Just found out the the R 32 GTR i have is a V spec 1 by the chassis codes anyway. Just wondering what the difference is anyway. regards

http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html Cut and paste and you will be able to see what the cars are by the blue plate. If the last 3 digits are 7 AA then you have GTR 8 AA then you have V spec 2 non N1 If you have dont have either a 7 or 8 and there is no number AA then you have a GTR V spec 1 or if you have 7ZN or 8ZN you have in your grubby little hands a V spec 1 / 2 N1 just put the address above in the explorer bar and you should be able to work it out.

pictures?

good move

It will if your current pump is a little lazy or you start to push out big numbers and fuel pressure drops

Anyone used the Pierburg pumps which are supposed to push 360L/H at 5 bar

1. Walbro lift pump tp swirl pot. 2 x bosch 910 280LPH @ 5bar direct voltage feed. New 3/8 fuel lines and fuel pressure gauge in dash standard FPR 2. R32 GTR track car stock turbos, injectors ( not for long ) PFC pods etc. Installation was not to bad as swirl pot in the boot 3. Sounds like a group of migets belting seven shades of shite out of the back of the car. Very glad for very loud exhaust and helmet. 4. no issue with 1/4 tank stuff with swirl pot.

I used the project Mu level 900 padsa and they were great but ended up killing the RDA discs. I still reckon that the disc cracked while it was siting in the pits thought as i read later that a car should be moved a few inches every few minutes when returned to the pits to stop heat transfer and cracking discs. They were great though never faded once.

LOL I didnt buy them i just helped my self to the bloody great wall of used slicks the teams left behind after the Dubai 24 hr race. So i dont know who used them to ask. The size is 240 x 640 x 18

Anyone have any ideas?

They will be used for track days

Guys, I have just been given a few sets of porsche cup slicks to suit the GTR anyone know a good starting point for these tyres was thinking about 24 PSI cold as a start

Checked last night on dotars and i could not find anything on brake lines

Right after hours of looking at lots of PDF files i think i have a basic knowledge of what is required to attemp this. Firstly you must apply for a personal import and be able to supply the required documentation to support these requirements to gain approval to import the car into australia. If you gain approval then you will be issued with the four copies of the import approval, these are required for the next steps. 1. Clear the vehicle from the point of entry 2.Obtain a personal import plate 3.For the registering authority 4. Owners records Car must then visit the VASS system for the personal import plate to be attached ( in Victoria at least). To pass ADR's 5, 22, 34. Car MUST be right hand drive and run on unleaded fuel. Car must then have a RWC and the you book the car in to get it registered. I guess this means that if the car has any mods if they pass road worthy then they will be ok so i guess we would need to check with a RWC issuer and check with them what is ok and what is not.

Much better with the lock bar,you are more connected to the road throught the car. No sudded suprises mid corner.

I know 2 x 910 will flow 278 litres/hour at 13.8 volts.