tacker

Some where between 32 and 35 psi at idle and 1 psi increase for every 1 psi increase in boost is a rough guide but i am sure others will get back to you and be more exact

R32 GTR 296mm x 32mm rotors R34 GTR 324mm x 28mm rotors. Pistons size are a little diff as well

Any suggestions on where to get a set of dump pipes for a R32 GTR twin set up. Would prefer to buy in Oz rather than off shore.

I have the 356mm rotors. Had the old girl out for a spirited run last night as i have about 200kms on the new brakes now and i have to say they do work well under a spirited road drive which is still some way off a track day session but they do pull you up. And they still have lots of feed back through the brake pedal so all in all i am really happy with them so far. May have a track session on friday night under lights so i will give you some feed back then.

I have the G4 brakes and they work ok on the street, still waiting for the next track day to give them a real work out. I used the RDA rotors before and they were fine for some time but lasted about 8 track days before cracking , but i think the level 900 project Mu pads were a bit on the hi temp side with these discs

No you use the old original wiring as your control or trigger for the 30Amp relay you need to install. you then run the larger cables from the battery both + and - to the area where your pump is. The negative cable goes directly onto the neg terminal of the pump the positive goes one side of the relay contact and then from the other side of the contact to the positive side of the pump. Your control cables or old pump supply then connects to the coil of the relay one either side of the coil so when you turn your ign on it activates the coil and completes the circuit through the relay contacts and let power flow to the new pump.....easy really

The aston martins are just a high pitched scream as are the ferrari's. The best sounding cars are the corvette and the spykers. Have attached a few pics but best part of the day i got 2 sets of worn slicks off one of the porsche teams have only done a few laps too. V happy about that. A few pic of my mates radical as well

The aston martins are just a high pitched scream as are the ferrari's. The best sounding cars are the corvette and the spykers. Have attached a few pics but best part of the day i got 2 sets of worn slicks off one of the porsche teams have only done a few laps too. V happy about that

yer i live here but i think they will be back next year or so i am told. And the slow ferrari is a red 360

Yer there is 2 of the beasties out there! Still the corvette is giving them some hurry up thats for sure. Best part is i got a padock pass so i can get up real close LOL And i swear there is a ferrari out there lapping slower that the last time i had my R32 out he is nearly 2 seconds slower them my times and about 30 seconds of the corvettes times. What the hell is he doing out there?????

Spent yesterday watching the round 10 of the FIA GT car practising and i have to say these cars sound so much better than the F1 cars. Was lucky enough to get within 20 metres of the track and the sound of the corvette and the spykers is just incredible. Will post some pic later today

DONG for PM then is it

Straight from the horse mouth so to speak. Hey Chris, And i quote As for the Power FC’s well the rumors are kind of a bit true but not completely, we can still get hold of most of them except for the R33 GTST, R34 GTT which are discontinued and there is no stock of. The S14 Series 1, S14 Series 1 D-Jetro, MR2 SW20 and the GC8/GF8 (A~C) are also discontinued but there is still a limited amount of stock available of these units. Everything else is fine, maybe not in stock but still under production. There will be stock of everything except the discontinued models listed above by the end of December for some and by the end of January for others. What I have said in that they are discontinued isn’t to say that they will never be coming back into production but as they can not say when they plan to be they have classed all of them as discontinued. Well hopes this helps a little.

I can still get them from Japan well that what i was told today.

yes you can in fact i have the RB 25 AFM on my gtr and it runs a perfect 12:1 air fuel ratio at WOT and never get more than 26 on the knock count. Not saying i cant get more performance out of it which i will when i get the new turbos on it

doesnt need to hard wired but gives much better flow if you do, same for a standard pump as well

Or if you do want to measure the circumference you can try this method. rpm/gear ratio/diff ratio x wheel circumference in kms x 60 = kph example is my r 32 GTR at 7000 in 4th gear ( 1:1 ) with 4.11 diff's and 18" 245/40/18 (2080mm ) 7000/1.1/4.11 x .00208kms x 60 = 212Kph while the speedo was happily sitting on 195kph which is a brand new Nismo 320kph jobbie

Nope your disc maybe warped or you may have tempered a section of your disc making it a lot harder than the rest or worse cracked one of your discs. Once either of these take place then it just gets worse, and it sort of difficult for discs to wear unevenly. Try machining your discs if they are not cracked and they will soon let you know if you have a hard section on the disc when they skim it.

does it pulse when you are braking?

yep have noticed my is out by about 25 kms at 200kph with 18" wheels on.

Not sure this is right, going by memory but the 30 and 85 are your coil and 86 and 87 your normally open contact and therfore the 12 volts fused should be on 86 and the fuel pump trigger should be on 30. I think that is correct but only going on memory

Man thats a lot of pumps! Twin 044's is enough for lots of power how much are you going to make? And i would say you are better off with a 30 amp relay for each pump and the bigger the cable the better or the closer your battery is the better too. But minimum of 6mm2 cable or larger if possible.

Ta will do

Where do we find these alloy bushes ?

Bad earth i would say check that first, see what voltage you get between the + and somewhere on the body.