tacker

Roy, will post a pic of the fronts later today for you currently on the wrong puter.

I thought they had to go on the return line so they can build pressure up for the injectors? Maybe wrong though

Mate remove the large nut which should be threaded on to the stub axle and the hub should come off, if the bearings are not to tight on the stub axle. If you have removed the caliper it should be easy enough

Bigger brakes are of course better as they diapate heat better, even more so with an aluminimum hat. I have seen some guys that know what they are talking about on this forum ( not me ) and unless you are running semi's or slicks then the standard brakes will see you through if you look after them. Mate if you have the money buy a set of AP brakes or brembos, if not then the combo i discribed about if a fair bet for a part time track runner. Spend your money on a good suspension kit and it will help you out with lap times, more so than huge brakes.

Yep have just removed mine and installed the lock bar on a R32 GTR and connected up the power steering fluid hoses as per the DIY on this forum. And apart from the hicas light being on i had no other problems with the removal of the Hicas. And yes just over 20kgs removed from the car doing it this way and i can every change my oil filter and not dislocate every joint in my hand and arm.

You are correct about measuring the brake temp when returning to the pits, it is surely not as good as during use. But i measured the temp with infra red gun on the rusty bit on the out side of the rotor, again not purfect but did tell me my rears were hotter than the front so it helped me realize i need to cool the rears more. I could also check the temps on the other 2 skylines running with me, again i aggree its not the most sientific way of doing this but it is all relevent to my car so if i am consistent on my run down lap ( 3rd gear ) i sort of know what is taking place. And again you are right about the standard brakes underperforming for a full blown track car. It is only for my enjoyment and to see what i can do to improve the car without spending grillions on dollars doing it. I had everything from ferrari's, lambos and porche carrea GT running on the track at the same time and you should have seen the tears when they all pulled in at the 10 minute mark due to brake fad.You should have seen the faces when they learned the price for new brake pads for these super cars. And there was little old me with my 6000$ skyline completing the full 20 min session with the brake combo i discribed above.

After much talking and posting about brakes i thought i would just see how bad the factroy brakes were. I had thought about lots of different options etc, but in the end i went for RDA slotted rotors front and back. Motul 600 degree fluid, nismo braided lines all round, bendix ultima pads on the rear and project Mu level 900 on the front. I also ducted air to the front brakes and removed the aluminimum stone gaurds. I still need to duct the rear brakes and i think i will also run another duct to the fronts just for a little more air cooling them down. Last Friday we had our first test session with these mods, and even thought the day was 44 C and the test sessions were 20 minutes long we were still ok with brakes. We have 3 very big stops on the track 2 are from over 220km and the other is hitting 190km, and a lap time of about 1m 50s. I did notice a slight drop in the pedal but brakes were still good, and i think this may have come from the rears not being ducted yet. We checked the temps on the rotors and calipers when we got in and the fronts were great at under 300 C for the rotor and 137 on the standard calipers. The rear rotors were hotter than the front by about 70C and the calipers were also about 30C higher hence the reason for the need to duct the rear rotors too. Had great feel on the pedal and never once had to stand on the pedal to make them work, Good bite from cool to hot can recommend this combo to all who dont want to spend big $ on brake kits. Big point is to get more air to the rotors its not hard to do and it seems to work a treat, i will let you know more after the 16th with the extra brake ducts in place.

Its just been a bloody shame that Mark can not seem to finish when he is doing well. How many DNF's is it now?

Hang on beer baron! It must have been able to do 200.......It had cop wheels

Yer its a F1 rated track :-) ran the A1 here last year we only ran the national circuit which 4.3 km But the facilities are second to none as you can see.

Cheers SK, I am just about to get on a plane for Angola ( Lucky huh ) but i will do as you say as soon as i get back into Dubai. I have read your thread on the sprind rates and i will post them to you ASAP. The shocks are ohlins but i will have to check the allen key bit. Angain thanks for the help and i will order the castor adjust kit. Regards

maybe over there but here they are only 1500$ more than a rotax FR125. As i said we had the designer out here and he was great to speak with. These will i am sure take over the kart world. And they are cheaper to rebuild that a rotax as they only need seals no pistons or liners etc etc. I was on the track against a TKM shifter and he didnt have a chance just hosed him utterly.

Would love to but then would need bigger brakes, more HP and a second seat for the bank manager i thinks

Just a few pic of the car in the aircinditioned pits

yep get the tune sorted and then the mid corner issue and we will be right there with the porka. I also run 2 oil coolers in series to keep the temp down. Also the AC condensor coil is gone allowing lots of coolish air to come through. I have two temp gauges and both were about the same never above 93. Dont think we could have run in worse conditions as it was showing 44 on the car parked in the shade outside the pit. Will post a pic or two just for any one who cares to have a look.

Ok i should have been a bit more imformative with my request. Car was good coming out of corners as there are only 2 second gear corners the rest are either 3rd or one very quick 4th. The car was turning in well but would become loose in the rear mid corner with a nice consistant throttle and not just pushing it straight to the floor. And this was a constant right through out the 4 x 20 minute sessions no matter what lines i tried. I am sure it is either the swaybar or springs or even both. As it was the car was nice and consistant it just needed a bit more rear traction and it would be a much better car to push around a track. Regards

Ok in answer to the replies yes i think the rear is far to hard and the spring rate will need to be lowered but i will follow due course as you guys have years more experience with these cars. 1. Hard, thats all i know they were on the car when purchased or rescued from scrap yard is a better term. 2. Ohlins all round non adjustable 3. standard front and back 4. N/A 5. Neutral toe settings front and rear, and 1mm neg camber on front and back and no caster adjust as standard items used. 6. Lock bar in use removed the HICAS 7. about 400 hp at fly guess though but would be close. 8. I dont know to be honest be i would assume factory. Also i need to mention i am running semi's as mentioned but the car was not handle like this on the track day i ran a few months ago. I have installed a 7 point cage ( as mention in another forum ) could this have stiffened the car?

Are the hats aluminimum?

Have just done the first test session on semis i felt the car was a little loose in the back end any ideas on how to best make it stick just a little more. I think that the spring rating maybe just a bit to firm and is picking up the inside rear enough to allow to brake traction. Any comments will be well recieved. And i will pass the 997 turbo next time i swear. regards

Yer i was talking hot pressure too and i use nitrogen to inflate the tyres to get rid of the increase of pressure. Ok first day has been done and dusted, and i am very happy to report apart from a small oil leak i now need to chase down. We had a great day! Damn do the semi's make a difference! What i need now is to get the tuning spot on now as we ran a standard map and there was plenty of black smoke i can tell you. And with AFR of 10 i still have some room for a bit more power. And surprise surprise given that the day was 44 C i had no heat issues with either engine coolant or oil temps got to 93 on the coolant and 100 on the oil. Biggest surprise was the brakes, standard calipers, RDA slotted discs, dot 5 fluid, project Mu 900 pads and braded lines. Was funny each of the 4 x 20 minute sessions the pedal would drop at about minute 7 about an inch and then stay there but they were fine for the rest of the session. Had a great run with a 997 turbo was nothing inbetween us the whole last session, i just hope with proper tune i will have him next time. Was a great day though V happy!

What i can tell you that they are clips and they are very brittle after so long in use. Best i can suggest is starting at the top and pushing a screwdriver in to help push back the tabs on the clip to help it release, but be very gentle!

Ducan, Your corect they are Re55 and i have the harder of the 2 compounds we can get here, my mistake. Yep i know what you mean about recording info before you forget it, i come from a karting back ground so i know how to fiddle with settings. I have a few of our kart team helping out today so all round if i can keep it straight i will be happy

Tried the new rotary engine for karts last night, ohhh man are these thing fast!!!!!! The designer was here and brought a 60 HP model it was unbelieveable how fast it is all up it was 60hp and 165 kg these things are going to be huge in the kart sceen

Mine has gone to big scrap yard in the sky, didnt work anyway! Went for a cool suit instead as its track only now.

SK, Your correct with your statements! As we here in Dubai have to run all motor events with FIA permits ( except track days for some reason ). I am lead to believe insurance has some thing to do with it. I have it from Fumihiko Obayashi from the JAF motor sport that these D1 cages are in complience with FIA regulation 253.8.1-8.3 appendix J. I even had the data sheet from Cusco translated to be sure of the statement FIA approved. And i think that the D1 is an FIA sectioned event now. I had the car passport done at the scruiteneering last week and the FIA tech guys passed the cage so i think i should be ok in that regard. But it must be the D1 as its the only one with this approval from JAF. But all you say is correct, its just that we have to run with the FIA permits here as they run all Motor events here. Regards