tacker

sorry about the late reply, I would look at doing the oposite in your case and run larger cables to the starter motor. One thing that could be an issue is if your cables can not carry the current to run the starter motor, then the cable get hot during your start up, resistance of the cable goes up voltage goes down, then current goes up again! A very nasty circle. Also a dircet cable from the negitive terminal to the engine block might help as well, if you dont have that already.

SS, be careful as i think to have a A/F ratio gauge to work well you need a wide band O2 sensor which the standard one are not. Not to sure but i would look at if the gauge and your )2 sensor are compatable as well Have a look at this site www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php

SK, What are the setting for a GTR are they the same?

Bugger

The white powder is aluminimum oxide which is basicly aluminimum rust! I would say that there has been water left in this area for some time, is this the first time you have removed the plugs? And i am no expert but i would say you are running to lean by the color of your turbo.

At what serial number R32gtr did Nissan start to replace the suspect crankshaft that need an oil pump drive collar.

Hanyou, I would think that the speedo not working will have a effect on this as it is speed related device. And this input comes from the speedo drive.

Mate there is a guide in the DIY section under Acc or something like that. Cheers

What are the gauges for ?

John, If you remove your A/C behind there you will find wires labeled ACC, power and lights. They are red ,yellow and orange but cant remember which is which now but they are labeled You can use the one labeled lights as its the same circuit that dims your displays in the centre console when you turn your head lights on and this will work for you.

Bilbo, You can use them but they are small in diameter. Also you will need to retune your engine if you do i believe.

Where is your battery located ??

I believe they are nismo ducts?

No really an issue for me as the car is for track only. But i guess others should consider that fact. Well made items though.

Got a complete set of nismo from www.teiwa.co.jp for R32 gtr Was about 250$ including shipping

Hello mate, You can get them in the states i have been in touch with a company called racing brakes. You can see their web site on the following www.racingbrake.com

Not sure either thats why i am looking at every option. I have 18" wheels so that wont be a problem i hope

Thats what i started the who thread off for they look great. But sadly i think the front end on a GTR is a bit busy to use them but they look the business though.

Well my effort is not in Freds league but i did manage to get quite some air flow into the centre of the dics i can feel it when i put my hands throught the wheel ( stationary of course ) and with the fan blowing air directly into the duct work i can feel air coming out all around the outer vents of the disc. Still i think i need to get a bit more metal ( larger brakes ) so i can compete. Sav Man i would try and get a smaller diameter duct as i did have to adjust ( see flatten ) one section to claer the wheel on full lock. On the LHS i had to run ducting around the oil coller but one length of this duct was plenty to do this. I do now recommend ( ha coming from a newbie ) removing the backing plate as it will allow a whole lot more cooling to take place.

Sav man, sorry mate was traveling and missed your question the wheels are 18" and 245 x 40 series hankook K104

Ok would like to know if anyone in the forum has any knowledge on 2 piece brake rotor from any maker that fits a R32 GTR. I only need the rotors as i will use the standard calipers which i will have a bracket milled to fit. Update i have found a company who make the 2 piece rotors for the R32,33,34 GTR skylines. Why dont you have a look at their web site and let me know what you think. There is even a forum section on this subject with very quick replies to the questions i have asked so far. regards http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewforum.php?f=7

Oh how i wish there was at times, but no there is no place like that here although i am finding a few little shops here and there. I found this in a small shop selling plumbing supplies i think it is a flue for a gas stove. What ever it is it works well it comes about 1.2 metres and streches to just under 2 best part was it was only 8$ And i have now put a good sized cable tie instead of the skinny little buggers i had it the first place. Have some sad news though have come to the realization that i have been kidding myself. After an R 34 showed up with F$#%ing Ferrari F 40 brakes on it. I could not believe how deep he was going into corners before braking, either that or he has a delay switch on his brake lights, was just incredible. So am now on the look out for a set of F 40 Ferrari picks. And i have just learnt that 90% of a cost of a Ferrari is its bloody brake set up, so i can forget that. Now in deep thought.

Have to say very appropriate as what you all are talking about is going to happen here in Dubai. The regs are not finished yet but from what i know is that the biggest issue is going to be safety, no discussion entered into on this topic FIA all the way. And after that they are going to run one race with several sub classes, something like up to 1.6 litre, 2 litre, 3 litre and then an open class, and ratio of 1.4 for turbo cars so a 1.6 will have to run with the 3 litre class. Weight will be looked at in this case as much for safety as for performance. The open class will be for turbo and AWD cars and you can do what you like to engines but the must run standard blocks, stroke/bore, gearbox while heads, cams, turbo (s) and brakes are free. AWD cars will have a weight penalty and there will be a weight assigned to every type of car as well as a control tyre and width for each class, standard plus 2 or 3 inches (yet to be decided) The shape of the car will have to remain as standard and replacement panels are allowed but will still have to make the minimum weight after each race similar to karting, so not much point in carbon everything. A rear wing will be permitted but will have to be limited to 1200mm length and 150mm wide and a single areofoil only unless standard from factory. No front splitters allowed and no undertrays. Ducting is allowed for cooling purposes only like brakes and oil coolers. ECU are free for all except the open class as its near impossile to check... just ask the FIA LOL but no ecu's with traction control will be allowed in the open class. ABS will be allowed as there is no sand or gravel traps on the circuit ( big smile ) as its an F1 rated track and has huge run off areas. ( check it out its called the Autodrome ) http://www.dubaiautodrome.com/autodrome/default.htm Feel free to pick it apart but the general idea is to just get it started and tighten up the regs when we see how much performance difference we get betwen the cars. I do think that the tyres will limit the cars performance, it has too. Only 1 set of tyres per day so you need to look after them and they will be provided by a sponsor. So hopefully cheap BE 55 i am told

DJR, could not agree more with what you say! What i should have said was are the calipers up to the task of increased mechanical leverage applied by the larger rotors. And as you say the larger rotor can store more energy but it can also effectively remove heat efficently due to the larger surface area. I have run some ducting to the front discs and it seems to pass more air then i thought it would. I tested it with an electric fan and it was surprising how much air was passing through the rotor. But your right i hope to never get near 900 o C but i am told these pads work great from 500 through to 700. i will check with the infra red temp gun first chance i get as to how hot they are getting on the next practice day.

Ok brembo's are now off the radar. I have made contact with a company call precision brakes in the states and they are willing to build a 14 or 15 inch 2 piece rotor to suit the R32 GTR. My question is if i have a mounting bracket cut on the water jet would the standard caliper do the job. From what i can tell from reading as many threads as possible is that is not the pressure of the stanard caliper which is a problem as the standard brakes work fine for the first half of a 20 minute track session. It is in fact the heat retension that causes the brakes to fade. If i give the calipers more rotor to work with and more mechanical leverage plus project Mu level 900 brake pads would this help with disapating the heat build up and therefore reduce the time it takes for the fad to occur.