tacker

Richard, will i get the pepper grinder this time if i buy the whole car.......by the way i hate ya i have drool down the front of the puter screen now, GOD if i only lived in OZ still hmmm maybe i might have to sell the porsche....anyone wanting a 3.6 litre turbo

cant find one to buy for a gtr. And with slicks the car understeers like mad

yep i reckon so as well but what to do

Ok seems like a funny question but i am looking at converting my stock ( and clapped out ) GTR diff from 2 way to and reconditioned 1 way. Does anyone have any information on how to do this please, short of this i will be sending my diff to Terry at award to do.

thanks rinmak. Found a drive shaft boot from a KIA is a perfect fit lol And nissan here refuse to order any parts for a skyline as they didnt bring them here.

and same increase in fuel pressure as boost

i take mine out to 8100 but i have aftermarket valve springs now as the old stock items bounced and i bent a valve at 8100 play it safe and run more boost not revs

go bonds they do a good job and they have weld in kits for both 32 and 33's. Or you can look at design approved by the FIA in their regs which is section 253-8 which cams should have no issue with as they are an ASN of the FIA. Then have it welded by a G6 certified welder i believe ( roy might help on this one ) and you should be good to go

guys, dont have GTR skyline spares here in the UAE but lots of patrols etc anyone know if the top oil seal that is placed over the gear selector is a common nissan part or GTR only ?

believing you might just be right too

i brought one from compbrake in the UK with .62 fro front and .7 for the rear which is what they recommended to me. Yet to fit it so i cant offer any more info yet but i to run the same calipers as you do.

fuse to what circuit?

I dont think there is going to be any joy granted from this thread! Liz and engine can produce lots of different types of metal when its on its last legs. If these guys were looking for metal from your valve train it looks completely different from the flakes produced by a slip bearing under duress. If the metal particals were not slip bearing material how could they possible know that the bottom end was at the point of failure. And the difference is very easy to see, and Trent has posted that he even put a magnetic filter to try and collect the metal particals. Which would not help much with cleaning up slip bearings which are a composate of lead / copper / tin. Not only that but my limited understanding is that a lean AFR can cause det. And they way it has been explained to me that det can lead to more pressure being placed on the piston top as it is still trying to reach its TDC and by trying to push the combustion into a smaller volume while the combustion reaction is still trying to expand. This can then create enough pressure to break through the film of oil between the big end slip bearing and the crankshaft journal. Resulting in repeated contact and in time bearing failure. For my 2cents worth the neither Trent or yourself are gaining anything from this. I dont know either of you a bar of soap but would it make more sense to take it off a public forum and sit down face o face and discuss and come to a solution that is not going to be castigated by hundreds of punters like me who dont know the full story from either side. Comments from us are not going to fix your engine and nor do Trents rep ( livelyhood ) any good.

still reckon it will be in the fuel supply system and sounds like dirt garge is getting close to offering up a solution. This one of those times when a fuel pressure gauge is worth is weight in gold :-)

lets us know if that corrects the issue.

yep Liz look at this way i am on engine # 4 and Duncan is on about 20. If you do get a used one, do yourself the favor and get some one to look at the bottom end for you and even throw in a new set of mains / big end bearing shells and a oil pump.

No one is going to get any joy out of this thread. I am sure that Trent would not have put it on the dyno if there was any doubt. Very silly business model to do so. Wouldnt every tunner like a crystal ball to see what is going to happen in 5 mintues time. A sad as it is, looks like this poor old SR20 was halfway to meeting my 3 RB26 engines in skyline heaven that came to a bad end

disconnect the CAS then remove fuel hose from inlet to your FPR and see if there is fuel being pumped out. My guess is your FPR has come loose and wound itself out and cut off fuel. Also your car will run without AFM run like crap but it will run so i dont think it could be those for your starting problem, would be for higher in rev range but not starting.

Big thumbs up for Terry at award diff, top bloke and is kind enough to make suggestions as to what would suit my car for a track only car. Now just got to work out what bloody type of diff ( 3 different types for R32 ) so i can get the correct plates.

Duncan, it can be done with cables mounted next to the window on the drivers side, you will need a long drill bit but it takes it directly into the main cabin under the dash. I can send pic of my old slugger when i get back to dubai if you like. I then just ran the cable to the battery box located where the pasneger seat used to be so i can turn the isolator with my hand rather than two cables. Also works for the fire system too.

Thank for the heads up dont know why i didnt think of them. Cheers

Have searched but can find anyone selling these LSD rebuild kit for the standard rear R200 diff

any idea where to get the nismo clutch packs? Want to give those a try before i try a complete new centre

sounds like fouled plugs but that would only be under load not on lift off.

front diff breather hose has more than likely come off