PSI Parts

I've got one from a 33, but has a busted stud. Let me know if your keen.

The hardest part would be finding one. Repairing a bar that only has slight damage shouldn't cost you more than $250 - $350.

*Repost due to server issue* Today I took the car out to Wakefield to test a few things, and ended up conducting some impromptu crash testing of our products I also have a few new additions that I'll do a write up on soon so stay tuned.

Hi Gavin, You can purchase one from our site: http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=R33S-DWNG-FG

We think we have sorted out the DNS problem, but would like to hear of anyone else who has had dramas accessing our site.

I haven't updated this in ages mainly because of a lack of pictures. So I'll kick off again with the fuel upgrade, that will finally be finished soon. You can also view updates on our website http://www.psiparts.com.au/project.htm The overall goal for the fuel set-up was to create both a functional and capable system that also looked the goods within the boot. Although we could have mounted the fuel pump outside of the car to reduce noise and smell, it was decided to keep it in the boot to minimise any damage to fuel lines from the constant bumps of street driving. To ensure that fuel vapour would not be leaked into the cabin, Earls Teflon (Speed-Flex) Hose and appropriate fittings will be used throughout, and a clear perspex enclosure will ensure as much noise and any possible leaks stay contained. Working out injector size to support your RWkW Goal Injector Size (cc) = A / (B x C x D) A = Projected RWkW Figure B = 0.8 (80% of Maximum Duty Cycle) C = 0.85 (Typical 85% of flywheel power is transferred to the wheels) D = 0.746 (Convert HP to RWKw) Injector Size (cc) = 350 / (0.8 x 0.85 x 0.746) Injector Size (cc) = 350 / 0.507 Injector Size (cc) = 690.335 Injector Size (cc) = 720 (Always round up to next size available) Note: This calculation only works for Unleaded Fuel, if you are planning to run E85 you should factor in around 30% increase in flow. The first step was to sit down and design how the fuel system will work. This may take a while if you are trying to run a complicated setup or want to factor in future power upgrades. Below is what we came up with. From here you can also start to plan what sort of fittings you will need and the desired quantity. Although screw on fittings are not needed, we always approach by the addage of doing a job properly will save you both time and hassles in the long run. The boot was stripped bare for work to begin Once the boot was stripped, we set about calculating all the different Fittings and Brackets required. We also decided to go for a Bosch 044 (700hp, 5Bar) External Fuel Pump due to its reliability, along with a 1.5L Surge tank to ensure no fuel starvation problems occur during hard cornering. Earls Fittings and Surge Tank dummy fitted to check clearances Now that we have an idea of where everything will sit, we set about cutting the braided hose to the required length. Hose Ends fitted, Fuel Sender lid with Rubber Seals and Fuel Hard Lines Once all the fittings are attached to the lines, came the job of cutting the fuel sender metal plate to allow the lines to run from the lift pump to surge tank, and return from surge tank to the tank. we also had to join the braided lines to the hard lines that run underneath the car with a conventional style worm clamp. The MDF base is cutout and Carpet is attached Pictures Coming... The wiring for the Fuel Pump was done via a Relay off the battery to ensure that there is always sufficient power, without the risk of over powering the pump or causing harm to the battery. If you are unfamiliar with electrical wiring please consult a professional. Once the MDF platform that will hold the fuel system is in place we checked the placement of all parts again, then a similar colour carpet to the rest of the boot is glued on and all parts screwed into place. To complete the professional look we were after, we used rubber grommets for where the fuel lines would pass through the boot lining. An enclosure is made to ensure any fumes or spills are contained and are not allowed to splash into the rest of the boot and cabin. The enclosure will also help with any fumes that might leak from the fittings, along with protecting from any objects that could potentially fly around the boot during normal commuting duties, as the car is not a dedicated track car. Pictures Coming...

We are now stocking the R33 GTR carbon wing blade if you go down that path

It would probably be cheaper and less hassles if you hired a spay booth from a panel shop. I know some do this to reduce the costs of running a spray booth. The worst they can say is no

They are $149 and can be bought off our online shop, http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=R33S-CCGC-PC

We sell the clear cam gear covers for R33 and R34

This is from a previous supplier and is in FRP. This will probably be the last lip we will have for the R32 in a while.

We originally had the Tein HR (totally different specs I know) on our Project Car and they were way too harsh for everyday driving. They were quickly swapped for the GReddy Type S, which have been great for everyday driving, (Spring Rate Front 8kg/mm, Rear 6kg/mm), however I am yet to take the car to track to test it's race performance. My only gripe is that the rears don't allow much in the way of height adjustment. I have mine as high as I can on the rear and is not overly high, it hasn't caused any dramas however having a bit more adjustability for interstate travel (I was refused trailer carriage as the car did not meet the required 125mm clearance).

We have a Garage Saurus style lip in stock for $249, Email/PM for more details.

Sorry to state the obvious but have a browse through the "Post Up Your 33" thread, if you can't find what you want in there let me know and I should be able to show you a few.

Let me know if you are still having dramas after another day. Some browsers don't like it when you leave out the "www", however I have installed a script to combat this.

With the new version of the Go Pro you can get 1hr 52min video (incl. audio) with al 4GB SDHC card.

Just go to your local Nissan dealer spare parts section.

Still waiting for payment details from you DRB25

There is no such thing as an aftermarket fibreglass/carbon fibre bonnet that meeds ADR as, stated above, would need to be crash tested. Although Blits are a competitor of ours, we wish to inform people. Blits provide a letter to their customers in which states they comply with Queensland Transport Regulations. It is still up to the authorities to determine if the particular part meets the requirements. If you don't want bonnet pins, but want to ensure bonnet security, I would look at Aero Catches.

I haven't been able to track down a clear image of the intake side, however it's interesting to see the changes M-Speed have made over time to the engine's breathing system due to what I can only imagine was some sort of problem with the initial set-up. Taken in 2006 Taken in 2008 Unknown Date

If it's only the clear coat, speak to your local body shop who should be able to rub it back and apply another top coat.

There are various reasons for bodykits varying in price from the cheap to the uber expensive. First of all, price is NEVER a good indicator of the quality. The manufacturing costs of bodykits vary depending on the location, the material used, location of manufacture and the marketing spin. As with any big Japanese brands you will pay for the name along with paying for the part. So don't fall into the trap that just because it has a label that a) its a genuine item and b) that it will fit like a glove. I have worked with both and have been surprised by both on numerous occasions. You also have to remember that the cars a lot of these kits are going on are at least 5-10 years old. With age comes tolerance differences from general driving and minor accidents ("but my car has never been in a crash", I hear you say. A few questions for you. Have you owned the car from new? Do you think someone buys a brand new sports car and drives it only to church on Sundays? Do you think all repairs are visible? etc.) Also material chose is one to be careful of too. Although fibreglass cannot absorb the amount of shock plastic (polyurethane) can, it is easy to repair and customise if required. I would bank on pretty much ANY bodykit needing some massaging to get a good fit, as every car is different and will have a slightly different fit. Do your research and find a reputable company that you have confidence with and will take the time to go through your concerns. Yes we do sell bodykits, however this information is merely a guide for those looking. We understand there are many and varied reasons on who you will chose to buy a kit from, however as we are keen car nuts ourselves we want to equip everyone with the knowledge to make a good decision so that making your car look the way you want it an enjoyable time not a painful experience.

Very interesting read. Just wanted to point out that the M Speed engines run the Auto Staff Oil Return.

Yeah, sorry the windscreen squirter pumps. If you could send pics to sales@psiparts.com.au and a price with delivery to postcode 2229.

Hi Guys, Sorry for the late reply. I had to take a few days off and its taken me longer than expected to get back up to speed. Anyways.. I had a look at our stock and we only have GTR front lips, sorry for getting your hopes up guys. If there is anything else i can help you with please let me know Shane PSI Parts