PSI Parts

We use Allied Express to transport our bodykits, although I'm not sure what the deal is for people who don't have an account with them.

Good job Heath. Keep those mods coming! I'll happily take the extra hosing off you, to use on the demo car

I'm keen on seeing the finished product of the kit mate. Post up some pics.

Yup, top night out. And only a short stumble home See you all at the next social event. Until then, happy emo hunting.....

I can recommend the Salmon Ceaser, had it the other weekend

The first decision when talking about intercoolers is whether you go for air/air or air/water. Most people will immediately pay off the water to air because they are unfamiliar to them, but they can actually be 14times more efficient than air to air. The main reason why these are not chosen is because they do require depth in the engine bay and they are also not as simple as an air to air setup. If you are serious about the car (which you seem like you are) you should really sit down and do the maths as to flow rates/internal volume/turbulator design/ end plate design/fin orientation etc. And for those people who are telling you to go with a really thick core obviously don't understand how an intercooler actually works, a 10% increase of core will only give you about 10% reduced temperature you did not get out of the first time. To put it another way, the second half of the cores (thickness) does only one-fourth of the work. If you are building a custom cooler, I would suggest having the end tanks on top/bottom as this will allow for a much larger number of tubes which will help reduce pressure loss. Things to look for are: Internal baffling on piping to create uniform airflow through the core Good end caps, i.e. no tight curves and provides a wide spectrum of air to the tubes Extruded-tube or plate-and-shell core In relation to the system as a whole – AFM position If you are interested I can give you formulas to work out any of the following: Power loss Density change Lag time Intercooler efficiency Core thickness Tube size

Yeah I understand the concept, just curious if this was based on the standard R33 offset which I haven't been able to find? And thus purely going off others feedback from the thread where users posted their wheel dimensions and guard modifications.

Can you elaborate as to why 30 would be a better offset? I will also get the wheels with the Disk B which allow for bigger calipers.

Count me in for a R33 GTS-t Series II non powder-coated

Cheers fellas. Yeah the cost doesn't phase me too much. To me wheels either make or break a car, and I spent over $4000 on my last set so hey why not again. I'm leaning towards the 57S-Pro in 18" with the Titanium lip. 8.5" Fronts and 9.5" Rear with +38 offest on both. Any commets/suggestions?

I'm Infantry corps and love it. Depending on your unit and qualifications you can earn about $100k a year. Of course it comes with a lifestyle that you cannot escape. Although you get to do some really cool stuff that others tend to pay for, and others that you just can't buy. Personally my current job pays around $70k and only takes around 18months if you were to do it all in one go straight from civvy street. Also depending on your job you don't have to live in remote areas, although if you do you are paid an extra amount because of it.

The business is located in Melbourne (hence the location under my user name - It got people confused when I changed it to Syd as they wanted to pickup), however I live in Cronulla. Because I'm the Business Development Manager I can still do my job with the business via the internet. I think its a pretty good deal. Hope that makes sense. So, see you there!

Here are pics of a Trust Front Bar with a GReddy 600x300 and a mesh cover. So if yours is 280, then i guess the end tanks will be fine, it just depends on the bracket mounts as to where the cooler will actually end up vertically.

I've been trying to track down some titanium rims that have the lips heat affected which causes the "rainbow" of colours to appear, but to no avail. Does anyone know of any model numbers or have pictures? There was a few pictures in HPI a while ago about them showing up in quite a few Japanese Auto shows but still haven't seen them here.

I have now added the dinner to the calendar on the front page of our website. Other events as they come up will also be added. Please feel free to PM/Email me to put an event up and I'll include it

Soldier Full Time and BDM by night.

Hey HKS-R33 what indicators have you got?

I'm keen for the Hogs breath in Cronulla (only cos I can walk there haha).

I take it these are in Japanese only and you just like looking at the pretty pictures?

I don't want to hijack your thread but here is a basic run down, there is more information on the forums: 1. Badge on the seat 2. Badge on C pillar 3. Debate as to whether Nissan used NEO spec engine parts 4. GTR spoiler was an option 5. Different front bar also being a factory option 6. Front and rear strut braces with Nissan logo 7. Factory Momo with airbag as an option 8. Made in 1998 9. Additional colour codes, e.g. Midnight Purple

I have been researching the 40th anniversary a fair bit as I am about to buy one however it has a standard series 2 wing. According to FAST the car came with "Trunk Lid Rim + Type M 40th Anniversary". Does anyone have any more pictures of what a 40th anniversary wing looks like?? Oh BTW Sik14 I could quite possibly be interested in buying the wing off you, PM me if you still want to sell it.

Yes I agree there is a certain stigma attached to parts that come from Asia. And although there are some very good stuff that is reasonably priced, a lot of it however has very poor quality control mechanisms in place, and manufacturing processes are not standardised. The debate will go on as to what is best value for money, but as with any critical engine component things like warranty, workmanship, integrity and precision all have to weighed up. Just don't fall into the trap of going the cheapest, as doing a job right the first time will be far cheaper than doing a dodgy job a few times.

This is a little bit off the topic of the cooler being replaced, but wanted to say a few things in regards to oil coolers themselves. Probably the biggest oversight with oil coolers is the actual need for them (I sell them, so this is not a sale ploy, but rather sincere advice). I don't want to insult your intelligence so if this is common sense to you just ignore it. All oils have a certain operating temperature in which the oil performs at its best. Oil coolers not setup with a thermostat can alter the oil temperature levels which can delay the oil getting and staying at the optimum level. Therefore before any oil cooler is actually put into the system buy a quality oil temp gauge and determine the sort of driving you do and the effect on the oil temp it has. As most people's oil will not go beyond the range specified by the manufacturer. Then, and only then, look at buying an oil cooler kit. And as previous posts have eluded to buying a quality oil cooler is the safer option as cheaper Asian copy runs the risk of poor manufacturing and disintegrating into your engine. This is purely my opinion, therefore take from it what you will. However I strongly believe that oil coolers are a very misguided modification that people make in order to look good, without ever thinking of the affects it will produce.

We can offer you some. Check out our Body Styling thread We have 400R and Jun Front Bars in stock. Trust will be back in stock soon.

I can supply you one for $150. (Check out our Body Styling Thread) Let me know your postcode for shipping costs.