PSI Parts

I will do that, however I'm not sure what my chances are of buying the rear housing alone if I was to use the typhoon spec compressor. As I understand it, there are no GT35 TS exhaust housings in the country. However I have seen a TS exhaust housing on GCG's website somewhere but unsure of the specs.

Just got this from Geoff's latest testing on his RB26 with the BW turbos. this compares the S300P 0.80 a/r to the S300SX w/ 88mm compressor 1.00 a/r pink:S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi blue: S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi (same as above) with slight cam gear adjustment (advanced to +3 intake from +2, and added a little fuel during spoolup) orange: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 17.5psi tapering to 16psi green: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 20.5psi tapering to 17.5psi after is all done, the amount of work I went through for this, i think the 83-75 would have provided virtually the same powerband. FWIW here is a friends twinscroll STI with 83-75 1.00 a/r and 2.65L stroker:

I'll be running the standard RB25 stroke. If anyone is willing to supply a SS GT35R and manifold, I MAY look into doing some testing when this engine is dyno'd.

I've actually decided to go for the Garret. I know this can be seen as the easy choice, however there still isn't enough data of the BW on RB's for me to throw some cash at it without seeing some figures first. I've already decided to run 9.5:1 (Custom CP pistons) and the Full Race Manifold/MVS gate set-up (first on a Aussie RB25?) so it should be interesting to compare these results to other standard compression (8.5:1) engines running a single pulse GT35. My bet is marginal spool differences on the dyno, however much better response on the track, which is where I want it to count. This engine should be pieced together in the next 2 months. I'm not fussed about the inlet piping, as I will most likely reduce the intake pipe to 3" as that is what my GReddy air filter has.

A reply I got from Geoff from Full Race. Thought it might be helpful for some.

A few pictures of the parts coming in

As I know a few people are keen on doing their own engine build, I thought I would post up the price of the different items required for the build. These are pretty much on par with what I have paid, however there will always be exceptions to the rule when it comes to preferred brands, specs and of course how much you want to actually change. As I have stated before this build is not designed for all out power, but rather a very reliable circuit orientated build. ARP Head Studs - $150.00 ARP Main Studs - $375.00 CP Pistons (Custom Made 9.5:1) - $1,000.00 Nissan Gasket Kit - $200.00 ACL Race Series Main Bearings - $100.00 ACL Race Series Big End/Rod Bearings - $100.00 Tomei Head Gasket 1.2mm - $318.00 Tomei Valve Springs Type B - $430.00 Tomei Oil Gallery Orrifice - $6.00 Nissan N1 Oil Pump - $345.00 Nissan N1 Water Pump - $415.00 JUN Oil Pump Crank Collar - $175.00 GReddy Magnetic Oil Plug - $20.00 Spool Conrods - $695.00 Ross Harmonic Nexus Balancer - $540.00 Tial 38mm MVS Wastegate (x2) - $400.00 Full Race TS Exhaust Manifold - $2,200.00 Garrett GT35R (1.06/.70) TS Polished, V Band, T4 - $1,500.00 (or the BorgWarner S200SX 75 - 70 1.15AR, which is around $900) Machining & Labour - $4,000.00 Catalytic Converter - $300.00 Engine Total $14,169.00 Obviously this does not include all of the parts already included like the fuel system, throttle body, plenum, braided lines, coil pack, etc. Which adds another 5k or so to the price tag. As you can see this is a pretty costly procedure so you will want to keep the car for a while or have very deep pockets.

I have been discussing my set-up with Geoff and it looks like we are going to get their Manifold, T4 TS GT3582R 1.06AR and 2 x Tial 38mm MVS Wastegates. Although he is also having a fair bit of luck with the 1.15 a/r S200SX 75-70 Borgwarner (which is around the $900 mark compared to the $1350 of the Garrett), but I'm unsure of their upper power limits and leaning towards the Garrett. Adrian - Do you have the test results of the RB25 at all? If not I'll ask Geoff.

I know this thread is very old, but wanted to see if this ever went ahead, as I'm just deciding on the final specs for the Twin Scroll GT3582R for our demo car.

Hello, We have a full set in stock. Can do them for $300 delivered if you want them?? Email me on [email protected] for further details. Regards, Shane PSI Parts

I started this thread a while ago, has a few pictures for ideas http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...em-t222875.html

We have a fair few manuals in the download section of our website. All free If you have others, let me know and I'll add them for everyone to access.

The method I use is; tape the hose where it is to cut, lock it in a vice and cut using a dremmel, clean the hose with compressed air, feed the start of the hose into the end, turn the fitting up-side down and bang on a soft cloth on a hard surface unitl is seats correctly, put the fitting into a vice with a cloth around it to protect the finish, apply some thread lubricant and attach the other half. Check out the earls website/catalogue and there is an installation guide. If anyone needs Earls products let me know as I can offer your 35% off RRP

T3 or T4?? I'm debating whether to go for the Twin Scroll GT3582R T3 0.78 or T3 0.82 or T4 1.06, arghhh the choices!!

Those damn jumping poles!! You gotta watch out for them.

Nice build. We are undertaking a similar twin scroll set-up at the moment. In regards to the wastegate vacuum lines, it looks like you are using a boost controller and thus utilising both the side and top ports of the wategates? I take it you have run it like this (using GReddy Profec B Spec II solenoid as an example): 1) plenum -> boost controller. 2) plenum -> solenoid (NC) 3) plenum -> solenoid (COM) -> T fitting -> top port of each wastegate 4) plenum -> T fitting -> side port of each wastegate As this would help provide pressure on the diaphragm to keep the gate shut, instead of just relying on the spring.

Let me know when you get another S2 Grille.

Is this what you are after? (obviously one of the clamps was not sitting right and had to be re-done)

We can supply you earls teflon lines at a very reasonable price, email me for a quote. 180or200 - For ideas you might want to see how we connected up the factory lines and used the standard pump as a lift pump. Link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ps...g-t242907.html# Dave - Curious as to why you kept the standard TB? I would have thought you would go have gone the Q45 for that power level. Also keen to see how the brakes hold up on a track day with the wastegate so close to the ABS unit.

And it begins.... The engine is out and the block stripped down, with the clearances being checked and the machining being done. The parts will start to arrive soon and we can slowly piece together the car making sure everything is right for when it hits the track. Therefore the suspension will be tweaked and maybe even a half cage put in. Here are few pics of the engine coming out. We took the gearbox out to have a look at it since the last track day caused 3rd gear to crunch, I thought it might be a synchro problem, then we drained the box and heard a few "clunks" into the pan, picked up the magnetic drain plug and this is what we saw... Looks like an excuse for a strengthened gearset.

Robotic welding?

Just to let you guys know, we are working on getting in REAL carbon fibre sheeting with a clear polymer for stability and a genuine 3M adhesive backing. More details to come elsewhere (don't want to hijack). Charles we will contact you once we get some in and maybe strike up a deal to compare it with the current stuff you are using.

The clutch install. We chose the the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Plate (Competition Spec) because of its racing heritage and its acclaimed softer pedal feel compared to other twin plates. Although a strong single could have been built for around the same price, we decided that a stronger twin plate should be able to cope with a little more abuse for what the engine will eventually put out. Once the clutch was installed it took a little getting used to driving, with the main problem being that I didn't give enough revs. As the plate bites nice and hard it will stall the engine quite quickly. The lightened flywheel is also a welcome addition, as the reduced weight will help in the lower rev range, however the other often overlooked advantage is that the material chosen for the flywheel is crucial to the biting of the clutch plate, get these two materials wrong and your clutch will be working harder than it has to.

A few pictures of the GReddy radiator to help with track temperatures. It's a perfect fir (which you would expect from GReddy). And the advantage of running the stock shroud makes it a breeze to install. After all I have read about how much a clutch fan takes from an engine I am of the opinion that switching to thermo's is really unnecessary.

We have one in our project car now. We got ours directly from Haltech. Here is the link to a few pictures of it installed: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ps...og-t242907.html