Erelyes

Have you thought about flocking it? You "might" find the fibreglass is a bit glare-y.

Hey Dean. What's the usual tare of a trailer you've built with those specs? Tandem axle, hydro braked. Large enough to fit a skyline but nothing heavier. Cheers Pete

Never had any major mishaps myself. Once I had removed the towball to install a shinguard. Did it up tight. Was driving around with a tandem car trailer (Nothing on it) for about quarter an hour. Decided to check the towball. Glad I did, the nut was halfway down the threaded shank. Did it up as tight as I could kicking an adjustable spanner, drove slooooowly home and then did it up to FT (F'n tight). Another time, doing service for my mate's 89 RS Legacy in the tag-along for the NZ WRC. We, uh, had to go rescue the RS cos it had broken for the millionth time. However my car was already full. Didn't stop us did it. We were using my 2000 Outback (a 6 thankfully), I had it stacked to the gills with service crew and gear, towing the 1500kg rally car, on a tandem trailer, with the driver and co-driver sitting as low in the rallycar as they could so as to avoid being seen. Drove like that for maybe 5 k's through 50 zones. Took an hour cos we all stopped for pies (day was shot anyway) Oh, and I passed a cop like that too (Breath was held!)

So I have a question for the rally guys here... Does anyone know how much suspension travel the Nissans actually have? Or how much you can get out of em? Particularly the R32/33/34 and S13/14/15. My gut feeling is the 33/14 onwards will have better travel due to the higher rear strut? And the silvias will have more potential being mac strut in the front? Planning a build for here in NZ where the reg's are pretty easygoing for building a rally car (championships excepted) but don't want something that'll wind up with 90mm of suspension travel and put a strut through the bonnet if I get it airborne. Pete

Cheers mate, will have to check how much the customs goons would sting me with once it gets here. Not sure if I'm keen yet but if I end up needing/wanting one I'll PM you.

How much would one of these cost, shipped to Dunedin, New Zealand? For a R32.

Ah, I take it they're a bit quicker ratio then? I definately saw that the lines are different. Darn, should have thought to grab the lines when I ripped it out. (I decided to go and get one anyway, figured I could resell it if need be). As far as I know, to swap from power assisted to non power assisted, you just pull the rack out and remove the centre seal.

Hey all Long story short, I have a drift car, and need another steering rack to put in it. I'm going to disable the power steering in it, so that's not an issue. However, will an S13 steering rack fit an R32 skyline? I can use the tie rods / tierod ends off the Skyline rack if need be. Just wondering if the bolt locations and steering shaft input are the same. Did a search but not much info on it, and the only cars I've found with the modification are Jap ones, doesn't state if its boltin or not.

Spose that's a good idea. I was gonna whip the crank out and take it to a reconditioners to check it for bends, resize journals if necessary, so on and so forth. But have heard from one source that every gtr he's seen with a knocking bearing has resulted with a stuffed crank. R33 cranks, new, are around 2k new from what I hear, here in NZ. Doesn't seem worth it to me when I have an RB25DE i got for $500 bucks, with a free car. And can use the head/pistons in an RB30 NA conversion for my drifter. So the crank is fair game - and if it's in OK nick, why not use it in the GTR? It's only 60cc different and if I had .5 or 1mm over forged pistons and GTR rods anyways it'd be pretty much the same capacity as a factory RB26. With slightly better revs and slightly less torque. The main advantage of the GTR is the rods, block, and head. All of which people retain for their 450kw setups. And of course all the fancy stuff attached like hex throttles / twin turbs and a fancy 4wd system... I was just wondering if RB25 pistons/crank would result in the same compression in a 26 block as they would in a 25 block. Cause if they can and there's aftermarket RB25 forgies that give 9:1, it'd be a good option...

I know 25/25 or 26/26 pistons/crank must match. Said so in my post. "shitty" RB25 gear. RB25/26 cranks are basically same except for stroke. And maybe bearing width. Will use 26 rods as I said. And forged pistons anyway. So whats the 'shitty' rb25 gear remaining? 300rwkw is a walk in the park for 25/26 cranks alike anyway. 26 cranks are pretty thin on the ground these days. Whereas 25 bottom ends are getting cheaper cause people keep using the heads for RB30s hybrids.

Hey all. I'm after a few answers regarding my upcoming RB26 build in my 32R. Ran a bigend bearing. Haven't pulled it apart to measure everything yet, but have heard my crank may be stuffed. Anyways... What I want : safe squish (factory/40thou/whatever), reasonable compression (between factory 8.5 and 9, or maybe even up around 9.2-9.3), and around 300rwkw. Factory motor made 250rwkw on lowmount mild turbos and a rich as hell tune @ 14psi. So know 300rwkw is easily doable. Will probably bore over and drop in forgies. Stock rods, cleaned up. Nothing fancy. Probably stick with around 1 bar boost, 8k rpm. Crank collar etc etc. 1) I know 26 pistons/crank and 25 pistons/crank must match. I have a good 25 sitting in the garage. If the 26 cranks f*ed, can I run the 25 crank with forged 25 pistons? Or even random ones for RB30 applications? What would this do for CR? 2) If my 26 cranks OK- I notice most aftermarket RB26 pistons are between 8-8.5CR. Thinner headgasket's not really an option (removes squish) to get the desired .2 extra CR. What can I do? Custom pistons out of budget. Any advice much appreciated. Engine builders with a clean reputation are hard to find at the moment, it seems. And would prefer to tackle the job myself.

Howdy The "bible" (workshop manual) for the 32R states that the conrod nut tightening should be done in two stages; 14-16Nm, and then, a further 60-65 on an angle wrench. Is an angle wrench actually necessary, or is there a torque rating you can use instead? Or can you just use a protracter and a good eye? Is that "do not use visual angle measurement" stuff just disclaimer rubbish? I know a couple other bits in the motor use this angle wrench doohickey too. Don't want to go hunting around for more tools if I don't have to. Cheers, Pete

I had 18x9.5 +20 with 265/35s on my 32 GTR. No rub whatsover, they were perfect size. I would therefore suggest that with 255 tyres you won't have any problems. 265 you may get a little guard rub. Easy fix if you do get rub, just lip the gaurd.

Hi there Was wanting to find out some information about the R32 4-stud (GTS and GTS25) brake setups. Specifically rotor dimensions (diameter, thickness, and venting) And caliper types (4pot / 2pot / singlepot, and weather the GTS25 / GTS calipers are the same, or the GTS25's are the same as GTST ones, or what) Any gurus able to help me?!

Yeah. No confusion. Did you not read the contradicting posts at the start of the thread. That said, thanks for providing a SOURCE of info confirming it (w/s manual). Now, can anyone tell me what TYPE of mechanical diff it is - 2-way, 1-way, or 1.5-way. I know (well, I've read on here) that it is helical, but that's it.

Seems there is some confusion here. My GTR certainly has a tight rear mech LSD, looks factory.... but are they 200 or 220? And 2way, 1way, or 1.5?