white33gtst

hey hey, just wondering if anyone has an r33 window switch assembly from a wrecked car at all? my drivers side switch has broken and my window is not fully up. if anyone can help me out can you PM me please. thanks heaps, brendan

PM sent regarding spoiler. genuine interest

not really much difference aslong as everything has been fixed/changed at the 100,000km service point. its only another 100,000km service pretty much. obviously at that age a compression test should be done but you should do that at the 100km aswell. if it has been looked after there i don't see a problem. maybe all fuel lines, vacuum hoses etc should be checked and replaced if you haven't done so.

any room for another 1 deano?

thats funny you should say that revving the car dosen't effect the whining. if it is alternator whine, the noise should get louder when you rev the engine. does the noise come around every 5-10 seconds or is it continuous? aslong as the RCA cables are run down the drivers side and the rest of your wiring is down the passenger side it should be fine. having good grounding points is a must like everyone else has said and the larger guage wire for the battery ground is also a must. the RCA cables are the big thing i have found with the alternator whine. maybe selling off your current cables and getting the correct ones for your amp (if they are rated that way) will help. i know i changed my cables to extra insulated ones i think they were (they were more expensive anyway, rated higher) and the whine dropped abit, but it is still there because i have my cables on the passenger side. just can't be stuffed pulling them out atm. hope this helps

why don't you put in the advertisement that the buyer can get anything airbrushed onto the bonnet for no extra cost? then they can choose

hey im after a drivers side door for a r33 gtst coupe as mine has been reversed into and has too much damage. preferably white (stock nissan white) but i guess will take any others if the price is reasonable. dosen't need interior or glass etc, just the door itself with clean straight panels.

hey got the boots last week was really quick delivery and they look great! thanks, left positive trader feedback

did you bleed the brakes after resetting the caliper pistons to put the new pads in? if there is air in the brake lines would this give the caliper piston some play? that would let the brake pad vibrate slightly enough to give off the high frequency squealing? ok just noticed u did bleed the brakes. did u bleed them at all 4 corners?

what is actually squealing? is it the pad on the rotor or caliper piston on the backing plate of the pad? im just unsure thats why im asking. does it only do it wen braking at low speeds because you aren't putting as much pressure on the pedal and so the pad/caliper piston is only slightly engaging? my car is doing the same after putting in bendix pads, its pretty annoying to say the least

hey would you be willing to sell just the brake light off the busted spoiler if it is still working? it is a series 1 spoiler? im just thinking of packaging and postage to townsville NQ, would be less hassle for you?

just adding to this thread, would it be beneficial to include having a small flex pipe in the dump/front pipe? gktech sell ones with flex pipes like this: R33 front pipe with flex ive also been looking at the JJR dumps but without a flex piece in the piping, just wondering if there is benefits with having the flex piece there?

i just installed my JJR type 1 kit on my r33 in the last few days. bit of chopping here and there and abit of stress but it all worked out fine. took it for a run last night and i felt an improvement straight away. feels more torquey down low. definately a good buy. took a day and a half to fit it all up by myself

depends on whether your current canon muffler has a flange or not that bolts it to the rest of the piping. some mufflers you can get need to be welded on others are flanged. pretty sure the canons are so loud/droney because of the reduced baffle size. larger the baffle (area inside muffler) the quieter the exhaust will be to some degree (depends on piping size, engine etc aswell)

yeah its the backing plates that aren't the same. it was easy to push the pistons back in, was just that it wouldn't slide in as the backing plate was hitting on the caliper. thanks for your help, guess ill have to take them back to the brake place i got them from and try and get them swapped