daisu

According to nistune website you need to use an R32 or Z32 ECU to run an RB25 with Nistune. I've got a Z32 ECU with nistune fitted, USB-consult cable and individual tuning license if you are interested?

I've got a Z32 ECU fitted with nistune, I was going to run an RB25/30 with it but never eventuated. I guess you would need to convert to a single AFM (I've got a Z32 AFM here as well), and probably a couple wires swapped at the ECU plug. I've also got the consult-USB cable and the software license for tuning. I'm eastern suburbs of brisbane. If it suits your application let me know and we can negotiate which parts and price. -Luke 0432 848 627

A31 395hp SR20 $12k Haltech platinum pro S15 ECU Red top SR20DET RB25 gearbox genuine greddy inlet plenum ID 1000 injectors Sard topfeed rail tomei FPR haltech ethanol sensor Bosch external pump and walbro internal, surge tank HKS cams 272 11.5mm in, 12mm ex tomei adjustable cam gears performance valve springs tomei headgasket tomei oil block adaptor greddy/grex oil relocator/cooler kit greddy large capacity winged sump late model SR oil pickup exedy hyperD twinplate clutch apexi cast manifold ceramic coated apexi RX6 turbo (exhaust housing ceramic coated) apexi external wastegate ARC prestige R radiator Ford falcon thermo fans stainless inlet piping and intercooler HKS HyperD coilovers GTR diff, shafts R33 brakes 5 stud, modified knuckles All adjustable arms, lock washers Straight through stainless exhaust (fabulous fabrications) 6point bolt in cage Dmax rear bar Dmax carbon bonnet wonder side skirts All panels straight, painted 6 months ago Pictured on work CR kiwami, but also have full sets of R33 GTR, BBS RGR 18" and work eurolines 18" can negotiate Brisbane, unregistered but could negotiate rego. Please PM

Are you in Brisbane? You will need to swap the uprights (unless you use GTR coilovers) and will need to swap the input flange on the diff (unless you modify tailshaft). I have a complete cradle using GTR 2 way diff, shafts, hubs, brakes etc, solid cradle bushes. Bolt straight in.

$1800 with tyres, I'm sick of looking at them.

Like the others have said, you can pick 2 out of 3 for cheap, fast and reliable. I had my V35 turbocharged in 2011 so I will give you a quick run down how it went to give you an idea. I purchased a single turbo HKS kit for $2500 when a wholesaler was getting rid of old stock. The kit had manifolds, gaskets, pipes, wastegate, inlet piping, intercooler, catalytic converter, silicon joins, hoses, lines etc as well as the HKS3037s turbo and a large capacity sump. Other things I needed to purchase, Fuel pump, fuel hose, fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, Blow off valve, aftermarket ECU That's about 6-7 grand in parts, then you will need to pay for labor to install and dyno tuning. You are approaching $10k pretty quickly. I already had a stainless catback, can't remember how much it cost though. My setup is very mild, 3-4psi saw my rwhp go from stock 211hp to 260hp. Others with the same kit had turned their boost up to 8psi and made a lot more power, but ask them how long their engine lasted before blowing up (6months). These motors were not designed to have forced induction, and the HKS kit is not really suitable for much more power. If you want it to be somewhat reliable and more powerful, you are going to be spending a fair bit more money. Forget about the HKS turbo kit and go a set of twins or a large single. That will probably add another 10k in parts. Engine rebuild with rods/pistons, cams, valve springs, inlet manifold, radiator, oil cooler, clutch/flywheel, v36 brake kit, then engineering and testing, I'd say another 10-15k. So there is 30-35k in modification on top of the purchase price and we haven't started on suspension, which on a 10year old skyline is likely going to need bushes replacing before you even begin upgrading components. Then there are other auxillary things like pressure and temp gauges, rear differential. Things get expensive really quick, of course you could do it a lot cheaper by using 2nd hand parts but you would be exchanging price for reliability. 2nd hand injectors you run the risk of a dodgy injector ruining your engine. You could pay to have them flow tested but by then your cost is approaching that of new injectors. 2nd hand turbo could end up with a collapsed bearing and turbo shrapnel in your engine. As others have said, go down the path that is more commonly taken. RB engines are very easy to make decent power and reliable. Go have a look in the RB30 section of this forum. Get a late model R34 GTT (they were manufactured up to 2004?) put the rb30 block under the 25 head. Or buy a car that has already been modified (someone else has spent all the money and time).

BOV could be sucking in air, could be a gasket or seal on the inlet manifolds, throttle body shaft seal, could be the exhaust oxygen sensor.

https://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/english/legalis_r.html This is the one I have and would definitely recommend. Like it says, only slightly louder, but definitely improved "note", with performance gains. If you enjoy the comfort of your car, you will appreciate an exhaust that does not drone or make you involuntarily reach for the stereo volume knob when you are trying to be quiet. Also, sounds even better again after installing a turbocharger.

Chasing a front lower lip for R32 GTR. Would prefer pickup within driving of Brisbane, but can pay for postage otherwise. Thanks

$2000 without tyres if it suits you better, or $1900 without the tyres and nuts.

Definitely wouldn't pass any proper inspection. The lenses on the "brick" headlights are designed to disperse the light, whereas the clear lenses from the projectors are simply covering the lamp. The result would likely be that the light would spread in all directions, providing poor visibility and blinding other road users. If you want it to be road worthy, you would have to go as far as retrofitting the whole reflector. You can see later model vehicles with clear lenses have their reflectors shaped to control the light output.

Brand new set of 4 wheels and tyres, only test fitted. Work Emotion CR Kiwami, Ultra Deep Concave 19*11 +18, 5*114.3 Glim Silver, new tyres 245/35 Comes with center caps (silver), hub rings and Work RS nuts (black 12*1.25) Pickup only, Bayside Brisbane, PM for any more details. Asking $2400

Use the front crossmember from the 180/200sx then yes, it will bolt up using factory mounts.

I don't see why you would convert to RB30? Rebuilding the bottom end in the RB30 would be similar cost to the VQ37, also change the compression ratio while you rebuild. $8000 for the turbo kit is not pocket money, agreed. But remember that is all brand new parts and a full kit, probably including wastegates etc You say that a MT swap would upset the OEM ECU, but you are replacing with aftermarket ECU anyway? No doubt that the 26/30 engine is capable, powerful with great aftermarket support, but I feel like the VQ37 would have done just as well, if not better. Have you noticed any change in the vehicle handling? With the new engine I imagine being a lot heavier (iron block) and more weight further foward (I6 versus V6)

If you back it off the parker circuit, you will overload it and blow the fuse for that circuit, you will lose your tail light illumination. If they were working intermittently before failing it is likely a loose connection or the relay. In the fuse box behind the battery you will find some relays, get a friend to turn on the parkers and then the headlights, you should be able to hear and feel the relay "click" as it operates. If if doesn't "click" try swapping some of the relays from a different circuit, see if anything changes. Burnt/damaged wires, just look at them visually, and feel them. If they look physically damaged or burnt then there could be a problem. It is likely that during compliance that extra wires were connected. On my car they left the HID ballasts connected but attached extra wires and crimp connectors to supply power to the halogen bulb. Check that the connectors haven't come loose or exposed any wiring that could cause a loose connection or short circuits. Regarding fog lights, check your indicator stalk, there should be an extra rotary switch on the stalk to turn on your fog lights. As said by sonicii the standard fog light is part of the high beam lamp. It uses a dual filament bulb, but during compliance this is often replaced with a single filament bulb. Often, the wires inside the fog light switch are disconnected. On my car the fog light switch was still connected (you can tell because the dash lights would go dim like they do when you turn parkers on), but the relay in the fuse box had been removed, I had to buy a new one to replace it.

Those corrector boxes are used to modify electronic signals for electronic speedometers. The C33 uses a cable driven speedo so it would not work. When the final drive (diff) ratio is changed, the pinion on the speed sensor in the gearbox is also changed to suit. I think you will find that the speedo pinion in the gearbox you have is to suit the 4.3 diff ratio as that is the standard ratio on R32 GTST. If you find that the speedometer is still out, try to calculate the percentage of error, then you can change the speedo pinion in the gearbox to correct it.

Shouldn't need the engine running while you are bleeding the brakes. Did you swap the brake calipers from the R32? And the Master cylinder? If you swapped to the R32 calipers, check that you have not put the RHS caliper on the LHS. If the bleed nipples are on the bottom side of the caliper then you have them backwards and you will not be able to bleed the air out. If you swapped the calipers only and not the master cylinder then the pedal will always feel soft, you need to upgrade the master cylinder. If you still can't get a solid pedal feel your master cylinder may have worn seals. As for the stalling issue, check for leaks on the vacuum hose between the engine and the brake booster, check the one way valve, otherwise could be the brake booster itself.

Thanks, good to know before hand that I will need to remove the glass as I would not have allowed for that.

Hey all, My drivers door lock barrel has always been a little loose but lately has gotten to the point that it has twisted the plastic cover off the top. I imagine that there would be a simple clip to secure the barrel to the door or similar. If anyone has come across similar problems and can let me know before I start taking the door apart. -Luke

Gearbox is sold, still have the C's short shifter.

Still got these here.

This is a common problem after doing a manual conversion. There is an interlock on the key barrel that prevents you from removing the key unless it is in park. The problem could be your gear selection sensor. Do you have lights on the dash to indicate what gear is selected? Is it showing that Park is selected when you move the lever to Park? If you can't find a problem with the gear selection, remove the cowling around the column/barrel and you should find a couple pairs of wires plugged into the side of the barrel. Try unplugging the interlock or applying 12volts to it (try reversing the polarity too). You should be able to get it to release and then you could just leave it unplugged.

Just jump through their hoops to get it through compliance and rego. Mine came fitted with halogens due to compliance. All they had done is unplug the ballasts, jammed a single fillament bulb in there (the high beam is a dual fillament bulb with the fog) and tap a wire from the bulb to the ballast plug. I've seen a lot of cars have the fog lamps disabled for compliance. Mine had the relay removed in fuse box behind the battery. Once they sign it off and you have rego, put the HID bulbs back in and plug the ballast back in. Just stick to the low temperature color bulbs (I think it's 4000k?) so you don't attract the wrong kind of attention, like it's really obvious people have HID's when they use 6000k or higher bulbs.

One more post. Just saw your thread in members section. If you have an RB25 gearbox, they use an electronic speed sensor, as opposed to the RB20 gearbox (and your instrument cluster) which use a cable. To make the cable fit on the RB25 gearbox you will need to use a modified navara speed sensor. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=120445 Depending on your diff ratio, you may want to use a different cog on your speed sensor. YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

Also, there are a heap of Jap wreckers here in Australia. Here is another example. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/home/ This one says they are updating their website and not available to purchase parts at the moment but I have bought things like wing mirrors, corner lamps, indicators etc from these guys before. http://www.sleekaspares.com.au/ I've even bought parts off a malaysian (i think) car forum. That first link I think I saw some of the sun sensors and that in there. If you didn't already know, we have a thread dedicated to finding compatible spares http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325614-parts-thread/