daisu

I've got an RB30 motor in my garage (minus the head) for $100 if anyone wants it. (in brisbane)

How do you have the pumps connected (electrically)? Turn the car on and then check the voltage at the pumps. It should be approx 14V. If you have voltage drop along the cables and end up with 12V or less you will be overloading the pumps. They will heat up and have problems keeping rail pressure up. How old is your standard pump? It is quite possible the standard pump has come to the end of it's life and can't keep up with the requirements of your engine, in which case you will be damaging the 044 from starvation which will further heat the fuel. Getting a bit off topic, has anyone ever heard or thought of using a peltier cooler to continuously cool the fuel?

Throwing some ideas out here. An auxillary oil pump supplying to the turbo only, pressure would be unaffected by engine RPM. Oil could be supplied from the engine sump. A dedicated oil supply would keep the turbo oil completely separate from the engine oil (would keep metal particles out of the turbo core in the event of a mechanical failure). Would want an oil pressure switch/gauge to indicate loss of oil pressure if there was a failure.

I doubt the shift light would beable to supply the power requirements of the VCT solenoid by itself, but if you hooked it up with a transistor and relay it should work. You can buy purpose built frequency-voltage conversion IC's. Alot of the manufacturers will send samples (saving you having to order 100 at a time).

I just bought a nistune, installed it into the Z32 ECU with the intention of using it on my RB25/30. In the mean time I thought I'd try it out on my current RB20. I swapped wires for injector 2 and 5 (didn't bother with the other wires such as O2, knock, powersteering pressure etc as I just wanted to see whether it would run the engine or not) it started first go, albeit probably very rich or lean. So as soon as I get a consult port wired into the car and a wideband sensor, I'll do the other wiring swaps, and see if I can bring the old RB20 to life.

Why was the battery flat? Sounds like your alternator could be stuffed.

I'm keen for a mat aswel.

I would've thought the new tuner would've started with a run on the dyno to check the original tune and then progress from there, so it wouldn't matter if it was a different dyno/different day.

Ah didn't realise it was auto. Good luck with it.

Have you considered removing the gearbox and put a regular RB25 gearbox on and keep it RWD?

Sorry, for some reason I was thinking C35 would have double wishbone suspension, but now I remember my mate telling me he put S14 coilovers in his C35... The hubs can't be swapped onto the spindles unfortunately as they are different diameter.

As long as you aren't planing to use the hubs from the C35 on the front of your A31.

The front hubs from a skyline won't fit. If you want 5 stud, you'll need to use S14/15 front hubs. Alternatively, you can just have the rotors redrilled to 4 stud. I chose this path when I put R33 brakes on.

If the car doesn't start again, pull the plugs out and clean them then reinstall. No real need to get new plugs just because they got a bit sooty.

Should have 4 wires. 12V+, ground, 5V signal, and signal ground. No other grounding should be nescessary for the AFM.

If it starts without the AFM and not with it then I would say the AFM is stuffed. The engine should run perfectly normal (maybe a high idle) with the AFM unplugged it will just be limited to 2500rpm. Try pulling the CAS out and turning it by hand. If your CAS is stuffed you won't get any spark or fuel. If it's good you should hear the injectors clicking and see the spark from the coils (just pull the coils and rest them in the valley between the cam covers, they should have enough power to arc out to the cam covers). Also inspect the half moon shaped key on the shaft of the CAS and on the end of the exhaust cam. If either of them are flogged out then the CAS will be sloppy on the shaft and your timing will be all over the place. Also, have you tried adjusting the CAS while it is running?

Remove the CAS and spin the shaft by hand while it it plugged into the loom and the ignition key is on, check that the injectors and coils are firing. It should start with the AFM disconnected (will run in limp mode), then turn it off and reconnect the AFM, if it doesn't start then possibly the AFM is rooted. Have you tried checking ECU error codes?

The voltage logs were RPM vs AFM voltage. Air flow is not always proportional to engine RPMs. Although the tests were done in neutral, putting the Z32 AFM on would have effectively changed the tune of the car and hence you could not say that load was equal on both tests. The only real way to test it would be by comparing a known working Z32 AFM against the suspect one. Even still, I wouldn't have expected the voltages to be exactly the same. It could be possible that someone has gotten an RB20 or 25 AFM and put an orange sticker on it. I would say it's very likely since your AFM has a round shape 5 pin plug and Z32 AFMs have a square shape 6 pin plug.

Yeah I ended up having to loosen my engine mounts and had the engine tilted up against the firewall. If it makes a difference, mine was factory auto. I'm assuming different engine/engine mount combos would change the position of the motor?

I just put an RB25 box in my ceff behind the RB20. Didn't realise it was going to push the shifter back that far. I had to cut a chunk out of the floor pan for the shift to come up. My crossmember I had on the RB20 box (S13 manual crossmember, stamped B) was going to require drilling/extra brackets etc to make it fit. I used a crossmember stamped A and it fit perfect. Getting the gearbox mounted up against the engine was a real pain in the arse, would definitely remove the engine and do it on the floor then lift it back in as 1.

A mate of mine had this problem a couple days ago, it ended up being the BOV leaking.

The front bar is autech series 2. Sides and rear are autech series 1.

Any RB gearbox will bolt up to any RB series motor without a custom bellhousing.

As in a factory RB24S or an RB20 stroker? or a destroked RB25?

There's a few getting around my suburb, my flatmate owns one, I know a few people who own them on the gold coast and then there are the others you see getting around but I don't know their owners.