daisu

As per title, I need a manual RB25DET R33 bellhousing. Please PM otherwise I'll forget to check this thread.

So it was working fine, then it stopped working, now the coils are working but you haven't found and fixed any faults? Sounds like the ECU is dodgey or the loom/connectors between it and the coils/injectors. The ignitor should have no effect on your injectors (if that is what you were asking). Pull the CAS out and plug in a stock ECU and see if turning the CAS fires all the coils/injectors. If so then it would point to your ECU being faulty. If not then check the loom out.

Why not just keep the original block boxed up in your shed, then when it comes time to sell put the original block back in.

Got a Z32 TT manual gearbox here was working fine before it was pulled out. Same internals as RB25 boxes. Put an RB25/26 bellhousing on and it will bolt up to any RB series motor. I have an RB26 bellhousing I can include with the sale. Also have a custom bellhousing if you want to sit this gearbox or an RB25/26 gearbox behind a VQ motor. $800 for the gearbox with standard Z32 bellhousing. $200 each for the RB26 or the custom VQ bellhousings. Slightly neg on prices. Call me, Luke - 0432 848 627

Got an R32 drivers seat here in the grey velour trim. Bolsters and padding are still firm, fabric not crushed or torn, no burns or marks, mint condition. Give me $50 for it and take it away. Bolts into cefiros/laurels without modification. 0432 848 627 - Luke, Brisbane.

Have an RB26 bellhousing and a custom bellhousing to suit VQ motors. Can sell the gearbox with either attached if you wish.

Just look on google images. The difference in shape between the 2 boxes is quite noticable.

The R33 head still requires modifications due to the VCT, it is only the R32 RB25DE head that does not require modification to fit on a 25/30. Also, how can you say the DE head has better valvetrain than the DET when the valve springs are not as strong? Otherwise, looks like a good deal, I'd be interested if I was somewhat closer.

Z32/R32/R33 are 5 stud but that doesn't mean you can't redrill the rotors to 4 stud (I have R33 gtst brakes front and rear on 4 stud).

eastern suburbs of which city. This is skylines australia

I have a manual TT Z32 gearbox sitting in my garage pulled in working condition from a wreck. In terms of strength these gearboxes are the same as the RB25 boxes. The only difference is the bellhousing which can be swapped with any RB25 or RB26 bellhousing to mate it to RB series engines, and the different style shifter. All the benefits of a 25 box for about half the price! $800 pickup in Brisbane Luke - 0432 848 627

The only real way to test this would be getting 2 AFM's both with intact mesh, putting them inline on a flow bench and logging their outputs versus air flow. Then remove the mesh on one of the AFM and see if the readings are altered.

Boost spike will most likely just be a tuning issue with the boost controller, they are abit fiddly to set up. No need to get a fuel reg even with an aftermarket fuel pump. Should be able to see those power figures with a bit of boost and maybe an SAFC to tidy up the tuning. Maybe consider an RB25 turbo?

I was of the impression the ECU's were still swappable even if the loom had the square shape connectors.

I wouldn't trust the reading on a calibre branded gauge. You can't lower the boost unless you use a lower rated actuator.

As long as you have an RB20DE or DET any R32 ECU should fit.

Mine has never stalled with the BOV blocked off.

Search is playing up again...

Yeah, fuel pump relay. Try using a mates standard ECU?

The symptoms you describe, is that with the buckled mesh installed or with it removed?

If it's the wrong crossmember the rubber gearbox mount will be on a wicked angle with the gearbox almost fouling against the crossmember (the noise in my car was the gearbox hitting the crossmember). If it's the correct crossmember it will look normal.

'ken oath. +1 on a set to suit cefiro, otherwise I'm selling up and buying a 32 4door just so I can have that.

PS. also check where the guard meets the A pillar. S13 has completely different shape due to it's pillarless windows.

If you had larger diameter tyres, it'd be the other way around. Your actual road speed will be higher than the displayed speed on the speedo.

Drilling holes will get a small amount of air recircing but it won't be a case of flutterz at low rpm and full dump at high. It will just be a less amount of flutterz all over.