daisu

I highly doubt it. For one the indicators are different shape. The cefiro front bumper wraps around whereas the silvia guards go down to the bottom of the bumper. They might fit on the car but then you'll need to use S13 lights and bumpers. I don't see why you would bother trying when you say you can get genuine brand new from japan for the same price.

Step 1, undo rubber recirc pipe and remove from BOV. Step 2, insert plastic softdrink bottle lid Step 3, reconnect rubber recirc pipe to BOV. Or if you don't like that, remove the BOV, trace and cut out a piece of sheet tin, reinstall BOV with sheet tin sandwiched underneath it. Both methods look factory and undetectable without tools.

Probably not a good idea to have speed signal wires being connected and disconected whilst the engine is on otherwise you will throw up errors, will probably throw your speed sensitive steering out. I'd just put it on a toggle switch or just cut and put some spade terminals on it so you can easily plug them back together.

Check the gearbox crossmember. Mine had the wrong crossmember in and was causing all sorts of vibrational problems.

Hard decision to make when you are trying to make the engine reliable for track use, so you don't want it cavitating at high revs. But in reality it will probably spend most of it's life driving on the streets and depending on where you live, stop/start traffic, so you need a pump that flows well at idle/low revs

If you are going to use twin R32 gtst highflows you'll need either to change the housing or the manifolds (or an adaptor) because they use different flanges. I know that the easiest path would be use a standard RB25 manifold and a single turbo, but I've got my heart set on this idea. I figure worse case scenario I get it all together and it's a pile of crap I can always pull it off and change it to something else.

Well originally I was going to go with R34 N1 turbos. Checked the specs on turbobygarrett.com and they come pretty close to the GT2560 (OEM SR20 turbo). Should've specified that they're going on a 25/30 engine but wasn't expecting this to turn into a turbo selection thread. Stock GTR turbos have .48 rear housings which i think would be a bit restrictive on an RB30 I'd prefer a twinscroll single over the twins but you also have to factor in a twin scroll manifold.

Fueling should be adjusted using a computer not a fuel regulator. Put the standard fuel reg back on and see if that changes anything.

Not really keen on spending that much money for highflowed turbos. What is wrong with .64 rear housings? I thought SR20 turbos were ball bearing (eliminating the need for thrust bearings). What else is there that will not fit? Machining housings to suit sounds like a bit more work than perhaps 1 custom dump pipe?

Did a fair bit of searching and couldn't come up with anything about running two SR20 turbos on an RB26. I know that the GTR uses a compact 5bolt pattern that is not compatible with the regular 5bolt pattern. I'm assuming there would be clearance issues between the front dump and the rear inlet trying to use regular SR20 dumps? I'm hoping that with all the aftermarket twin turbo kits getting around that there are GTR dumps designed to suit the regular 5 bolt pattern? Anyone have any ideas? Otherwise I'll just get some GTR dumps and having the flanges changed over.

R180 diffs have collars that bolt onto the outside of the housing around the halfshafts. Use an R200 out of S13/180sx/R32/C33/A31. Just make sure that the new diff has the same number of bolts where the driveshafts and halfshafts meet. (6bolt or 5bolt)

It would just blow ambient air if there was no gas in it. It is more likely that one of the air temp sensors is shot, or the air mix door is stuck. You can run diagnostics on the digital climate controllers.

I don't understand how can the loom be hacked up because it is not available for a week as it is still on the car being driven?? Is it a series 1 or 2 engine? I need a couple loom plugs from a series 2 motor (that is if you'll split the loom from the engine package).

Don't forget the AWD A31 cefiro

Excellent, I've got the same wheels in 18*10.5 +38 on the rear of my cefiro, but it looks stupid because I have 265/30 tyres.

check the electrical connections on the starter motor. Mate had a problem recently where everything was going dim and wouldn't crank over.

If it's not the brake calipers locking up (they aren't seized) then it's probably your brake master?

If anyone has some damaged looms or some odd bits and pieces laying around I'm looking for the 8pin connector that joins the engine loom to the coilpack loom. I need both sides (male and female plugs). Thanks, Luke

Have a coilpack loom for Series 1 RB25. Is in good condition (not brittle or cracked). $50 located in Brisbane, can post for extra. 0432 848 627 - Luke

I'm not exactly sure what your first question is asking. I installed a digital climate controller from a JDM S13 into the A31 cefiro. I haven't had time to write up a wiring diagram for it yet.

They definitely aren't laurel grilles, are you sure fast doesn't list them? AFAIK they are from the late models.

What size rims (offset/width) and tyres are you running on the back here?

Usually you can just undo all the bolts around the edges and knock the center out with a mallet. Depending on the design of the wheel you may have to split the outer and inner lips to get the center out.

ARC air box = $$$ Just get some sheet metal bent up and whack a filter in there.

More details. Was the engine running or was it a fresh rebuild? Do you have receipts for the work done? Is the head from an R32, R33 or R34? DE or DET head? If it's a 33/34 head did you keep the VCT or just block it off? Bottom end? Crank collar? Bearings/rods/pistons? Timing belt tensioners? Does it come with accessories? Injectors? Manifolds? etc Will you sell it without the manifold/turbo/wastegate?