daisu

4door and 2door skylines are the same size.

How about you list what parts you have.

Probably the easiest option, plug the R33 electronic speed sensor in the gearbox, wire it up to the ECU and wire the multichecker/RSM/whatever meter onto that.

Here are some of my ideas. Get your hands on an R33 cluster, disassemble it and try to fit the speedo section into your cefiro cluster. Can't guarantee this will be accurate as you will probably stuff the calibration when you remove and replace the needle. Alternatively, get a cluster from a 180sx (or maybe S13) the models with a HUD had a digital readout on the cluster, you could put that into your cluster. Either that or try and make the clusters fit in your dash, though you'll have to rewire the plugs on the back of the cluster. You'll probably find the speedo will still be inaccurate depending on things like converting to manual from auto, different diff ratio, wheel/tyre size. At least with an electronic speedo you can buy frequency adjusters from places like jaycar, Then you can compare it to something like a GPS and tweak the calibration yourself.

Should work, just won't beable to run as much boost without aftermarket tuning. There should be some threads in the forced induction performance section regarding DE+T conversions

Not sure on legalities.

That would probably be the year of compliance, I doubt your RB20 was built in 98. I'd say that in an electronic speedo setup that the signal from the speed sensor is sent directly to both the ECU and the cluster, rather than being sent from one to the other. I'd assume the signal sent from the cluster to the ECU (in an analogue setup) would be the same type of signal sent from an electronic speed sensor. You could then use something like an Apexi RSM then to display your speed rather than worrying about trying to fit an electronic speedo behind your cluster. I'd say it'd be alot easier just to replace the cable. They are the same cable as used in the R32 GTST, try searching the forums here for the speedo cable I'm sure it's come up before.

Engine compression is higher, but a DE+T conversion is definitely possible. You'd probably need a turbo ECU (maybe turbo injectors, not sure if they are the same size) among a few other things.

Pretty sure the late models had electric seat option.

A new cable is probably going to last another 20years, the one in the car atm was probably the original from manufacture. On cars with cable driven speedo, the ECU gets the speed signal from the cluster. So converting to electronic you will have to fit a speedo sensor to the gearbox and wire that in somehow.

Wierd that it is 4 stud, unless it's a non turbo model. the pattern will be 4*114.3 so S13/180sx wheels will fit. not sure what else uses that pattern but you should beable to pick up standard S13 wheels for next to nothing

Yeah, if your hicas computer was unplugged then chances are your rear steering was going all over the place. Converting to electronic speedo would involve retrofitting an electronic speedo from something like an R33 to fit in your cluster. Or make the R33 cluster fit in the cefiro and rewire all the dash plugs... Just get a new speedo cable from nissan and gotta be careful when reinstalling the cluster so as to not break that plastic spindle.

It is a requirement for compliance. Half the imports I see never had a dimmer installed, or they have them removed. Technically it is a requirement, but it isn't something that is checked during rego or during a defect check.

I haven't looked in my boot for a while, but when you say bulb holder loom is that seperate to the bulb holder? Because you say you check for power at the body loom and that is okay, and you've replaced the bulb holders, but perhaps there is a break in the wire of the bulb holder loom?

Try loosening the door hinges and realigning the door it if that is the problem?

What problems were you having and what did you try doing to fix it? The brightness control is an aftermarket addition made during compliance when they come into australia. I find the dash lights are very dim even on the brightest setting so I'd suggest just removing the dimmer control altogether. The dimmer should have two wires on the back of it, one connects to the dash cluster and the other is a 12V supply which is switched on with the parkers. Get your multimeter out and check that you are getting 12V at the dimmer when you turn the lights on. If there is 12V with the lights on then bypass the dimmer by joining the two wires. Dash lights should now work. If not then trace the wire from the dimmer up to the dash cluster and look for anything suss. If you don't have 12V at the dimmer when you turn the lights on then trace that wire back (i'm not sure exactly where it goes, maybe a relay or the fusebox or something). If you still can't find the problem then, take your headunit out and should find an unused wire for illuminating the factory headunits. Extend this illumination wire upto the dimmer switch and use this as the new 12V supply for your dash illumination. If you want to keep your dimmer then connect it to the dimmer and connect the cluster to the other side of the dimmer. If you can't be bothered with the dimmer then just join the two wires together. I'd also suggest replacing the bulbs with LED's, make the cluster heaps easier to see.

That is your HICAS computer. As for the auto headlights and one headlight coming on but not the other etc issues, it's usually the contacts on the indicator stalk. My lights work in auto, parkers, on, highbeams etc But when it is at the ON position the contact is dodgey and they will intermittently turn on and off, so I just leave it in auto. The red light that looks like a highbeams indicator is a bulb blown warning. Not just for you brake lights but for parkers as well. But since it is only coming on with the brake pedal then it would point to a brake light bulb being blown. Just like the indicators flash fast even though they were all working it was just a dodgey connection? So I'd suggest pulling the bulbs out of your taillights and checking the bulb holders for corrosion, check the earthing screws on the tail light assembly etc etc.

I don't know any rear rotors that are the same as the cefiro/laurel. The S13/180sx rear rotors won't fit because of the different type of handbrake they run. Your best bet would be trying to find a listing for a non-turbo R32 as they are 4 stud. Either that or buy skyline GTST rotors and calipers and redrill to 4 stud (I've got R33 brakes front and rear redrilled to 4 stud)./

Pretty sure it's the control unit for the automatic gearbox. My guess is your car is manual and it used to be an auto.

If there was a "short" you'd know about it because you'd loose all your parkers (and dash illumination). I'm with nic, check the solder joints on the back of the bulb holders and all the earthing connection points.

Running a higher fuel pressure you can squeeze a bit more fuel out of the injectors as opposed to buying larger injectors. It is a cheap alternative but you can only push it a little bit. Presumably your mate with the higher fuel pressure kept stock injectors, and your mate with the lower fuel pressure upgraded to larger injectors. There is no point in adjusting your fuel pressure or upgrading the injectors unless you have some sort of aftermarket ECU to control the amount of fuel going in.

1) Front mount kits generally don't suit cefiros, just buy a core by itself and get your local exhaust shop to weld up a couple pipes for you. 2) Rear window regs are the same as R32 4doors if i'm not mistaken 3) Seen some getting around on ebay stores from time to time 4) Jump on secretdrift.com and try for some seats there, but it's predominantly a QLD based site 5) Can't offer any advice except keep your eyes open 6) Best bet is to get a new one direct from nissan spare parts as I don't know anyone who still has one of these intact.

Unfortunately none of the S13 models were delivered to australia, all of ours are imported JDM models so we name them as such. 180sx is the hatch with the popup headlights, and the silvia is the coupe with fixed headlights. As for the PS13/RPS13, the P denotes SR20 powered, and the R denotes the 180sx liftback shape (pictured above).

Not exactly sure what the problem is.... The lights work when you press the brake pedal, but they don't light up when you have your parkers on? Or the lights on one side work but not on the other side? Either way, check there is no corrosion on the inside of the bulb holder. Check where the wires join to the back of the bulb holder. Check for corrosion where all the earths for the tail light assembly join together.

As in car phone. Probably a common thing before mobiles were popular