daisu

Holy shit I can't believe they dropped a brick off a bridge on your car! As for the standard turbo, you can wind it up a bit. I'm pushing 1.3 bar through mine, but I don't expect it to last very long like that. I think the general consensus is anything under 1bar should be okay. The HUD thing looks cool, do you need a film on the window to make it work or does it project onto any glass surface?

Yeah, they all have the same chassis/drivetrain. 180/200/240sx/silvia/s13

Lum, can you check the part numbers for the Laurel keys? My copy of FAST isn't working

Pretty sure the behind the drivers side kickpanel is for the auto gearbox.

I just checked my rack, it only has 4 fittings there (and another 4 on the rear for the hicas lines). The 2 on the left go to either side of the rack, the bottom right is supply from the pump, and the one above that is return to the reservoir. I don't know about that top one though as my rack doesn't have that.

If it is a hicas rack it should have a feed and return to the pump/resevoir, and the 2 lines to each side of the rack (just like a regular front steering rack). Then it should have 4 holes for the hicas. These holes are completely seperated from the hydraulics of the front rack. Their only function is as a connection block to join the hicas lines from the rear of the car to the hicas lines in the engine bay. If you have no intention of refitting hicas then you can leave those 4 holes unplugged. If you still have a hicas pump and reservoir just loop it straight from the pump to the reservoir, that way you don't have to worry about keeping the lines under the car and looping it around at the back (where the rear hicas rack was).

Was going to suggest rekeying. On the other hand, how often do you unlock your car using the door lock on the passenger side? If it were me I'd just whack any passenger door lock in (infact I have a spare passenger door lock for cefiro if you are interested)

Nothing, but the point is they are there for a reason. They help remove heat from the pistons and I'd assume aid lubrication?

Location? Pretty sure you need to list a price.

Put an external vent on the sump. Any blowby gases will now vent directly through that as opposed to travelling up the oil galleries and out the PCV on the head (picking up oil as it goes), also helps the oil drainage from the head because now the gases aren't rushing past in the opposite direction.

That all sounds correct to me. if you want 5 stud hubs upfront, it's S14/15 or those aftermarket conversion ones. Don't use the R33 LCA unless you want to drill holes in it for the swaybar links. S14/15 LCA's are longer and will give you a bit of extra track and more neg camber, or get the R33 balljoints pressed into your current LCA's. With the rear hubs, the R33 upright (hub carrier) won't fit as it uses different strut mounting point. But if you undo the 5 bolts on the back of the upright, you can remove the 5stud hub and bearing and swap it over onto your cefiro gear. Saves you having to get rid of the R33 rear hubs and finding R32 rear hubs.

Any diff from an R32 or S13 will fit in your cefiro. But, there are a few different options. There are 2 sizes of diffs the R180 and R200 (the diameters of the crownwheel). R180s are smaller and obviously not as strong as R200. Also I don't think you can get an LSD R180 (unless it is aftermarket), so you want an R200. The R200 comes in both viscous LSD and open wheel type. The LSDs have a sticker on them, but it's probably fallen off by now. The otherway to tell between an open diff and an LSD is that the output shafts will spin in opposite directions when you turn the input shaft of an open diff. R200 also has 2 types of output shafts, either 5 bolt pattern or 6 bolt pattern. You will need to check the bolt pattern of the output shafts on your cefiro and find a diff with the same bolt pattern to match, otherwise you'll have to swap your driveshafts as well. As far as I know, all S13s use 6bolt output shafts, R32 use 5bolt output shafts, and LSDs were factory standard on turbo models.

S13, S14, R32, not sure about R33. Couldn't tell you how much they are check the classifieds sections. Pumps are same as R32 RB20, depending on whether it's hicas or not and you may have to change the pulley if it has a different number or ribs on the belt.

Power steering pump could possibly be worn out. Could be a hicas related issue (have heard stories of steering going heavy after installing hicas lock bars).

How much are you going to pay for a 2nd hand 33 GTR pump which is going to be the same age as your current pump and you will have no idea what conditions it has been through, versus paying a little more for a brand new 040. If you were going to buy a brand new GTR pump from nissan spare parts then it's probably going to cost the same if not more than the 040, even though the 040 is going to rate higher than the GTR pump.

He says 38mm ext wastegate, that could be a problem if that is leaking. If you go to a dyno with the factory ecu they are only going to be able to adjust base ignition timing (CAS) and maybe your fuel pressure (if you have an adjustable FPR) Really what you need is at least a piggy back ECU or more preferably a full standalone (powerFC) so you can have it dyno tuned properly. The other thing is you maybe wasting your time with this turbo. If you just want something that comes on boost nice and early perhaps you should look at getting a factory RB25 turbo back on it? With the turbo you have now you could put some decent boost into it (especially with the aftermarket ecu) and get some pretty good power out of it. The standard turbo on the other hand is really only good for around 1bar of boost pressure, and will likely run out of puff when you get near redline. Selling the turbo you have now and getting a standard one would probably result in having change in your pocket. Getting a powerFC is going to cost at least 1k, then dyno time at least couple hundred dollars. It all depends what you want from the car and how much you are willing to spend on it.

If you know anyone with an S13, you will beable to get strut-strut and rail to tower measurements from them. Firewall to rad support should be same as R32. You should be able to shoehorn pretty much most things in there though. People fit 1/2JZ's in them, pretty sure I've seen one with a VQ30 in there.. plenty of room.

Well considering the R32 ECU is direct plug and play into the A31 loom, just use an R32 ECU and install a consult port. As said it's only 6 or so wires.

Didn't you see my reply in the other thread?

1.Less than 2 feet IC piping with less than 150 degrees in bends. Every bend or change in direction of air flow is viewed as potential flow loss. It is estimated at every 90 degrees(or three 30 degree bends)results in 1% flow loss. Compare competitors vs ASTRAY. Can't argue with less piping/bends = greater flow. But given the figures they quote, @ 14.7psi boost pressure there is a difference of 0.85psi loss between the 2 setups, which is pretty negligible. I'm sure the type of intercooler core used would be most important when considering pressure loss. If anything, they should be promoting the less piping=less lag. 2.No battery relocation = No drilling big holes for intercooler piping I use a turnflow intercooler which didn't require drilling any holes or battery relocation. Battery relocation isn't a bad thing anyway (in terms of weight distribution). Also, it's a bit of a stupid argument when instead they require you to cut a massive hole in the bonnet instead. 3.Able to keep front bumper support Removing the front bumper support jeopardizes your engine bay in a front collision. I didn't remove or cut my front bumper support when I had a front mount. What about cutting holes in the bonnet, wouldn't that jeopardize the crumple characteristics in a front collision? Also, the bonnet could easily be pushed into and damage the intercooler in a front collision. 4.Is not a V-mount IC V-mount intercoolers are prone to heat soak. This often happens when car is not moving and engine bay temps heat IC. How is the astray any different in terms of heat soak? Not only would it still suffer from heatsoak when the car isn't moving, it is also mounted directly above the engine which would make it worse. 5.Intercooler as direct cooling, no interferences from cars body parts. You could achieve the same thing by having a hole in your bumper, which many aftermarket bumpers are already designed with (as opposed to a hole in the bonnet) not to mention the added benefit of ducting. Out of the 5 "benefits" they list, I can see one arguement (shorter piping), 2 are pretty much irrelevant, and the other 2 would be worse when compared to a regular FMIC. The only other thing I can see is that a dirty broad minded person in heels is going to lay herself out on my bonnet for a photo. And like other people already mentioned, air flow through the intercooler is going to be very poor without any ducting.

Is it the Greddy informeter that plugs in the dianostics plug? Also the nistune remaps use the diagnostic plug.

If that site was Ebay, then what is actually says

I can't tell you what wire to cut and connect, but here are the loom pinouts for A31 I found this on a jap site www.a31cefiro.com It includes loom pinouts for RB20E, RB20DET and RB25DE in early, mid and late models. The ECU pinout is the same as the R32 RB20, but this includes the pinout for the dash loom and consult connectors, so would be very useful for anyone doing an engine conversion in their A31/C33 Google translator does an okay job of translating the wiring descriptions but a couple of them come out funny. early model mid model (consult) late model (includes rb25de) Just spent the last couple hours checking out the rest of the site, there is heaps of information and specs there. Tailshaft lengths, brake master cylinder bore sizes (and booster diameters), radiator core dimensions for different spec levels on R32/A31/C33/S13.

Well if they are different then that's no use to me then.... I need R32

damnit, I just bought one from nissan last week at $110.