daisu

Disconnected the factory ECU to remove the plug in haltech and found water inside the factory ecu socket. There was a heap of corrosion and one of the ECU pins has snapped off inside the plug.

The ECU does not like your throttle control unit. Have you tried resetting the ECU?

Hi all, Recently (a couple times over the last few months) my skyline has gone into limp mode (VDC/slip lights illuminated, throttle restricted). Each time this happened I was able to turn the car on and off a couple times and it came good. Last weekend though, I turned the car on and there is absolutely no throttle response, the car starts and idles but will no rev at all. I pulled the pedal out of the car and tested the resistance on both sides, appeared to be working okay but without a power supply I couldn't verify that it was 0-5Volt. I borrowed a throttle body but that did not seem to change anything. Done multiple ECU resets and always coming back with the same 2 fault codes 1122 - Electronic Throttle Control Actuator and 1126 - Throttle Control Motor Relay. So I pulled the relay out, powered the coil and it seems fine, the contacts are switching. Then I checked the terminals where the relay plugs in. The two pins for the coil had 12V on one pin and 3V on the other pin. 9volt across the coil will not energise the relay. Does that seem odd to anyone else? That the ECU would raise the voltage on one side to turn the relay off, or is that normal behaviour? So then I bridge the two other pins in the relay holder, supplying 12V to the other side of the circuit. The throttle now moves (it jumps a little) when you turn the ignition on and it cycled open/close when I turned the ignition off. Still not operating with the pedal though. Looking around the forums I found a few examples where the Intelligent Power Distribution Module (IPDB, fuse box behind the battery) was at fault. People were describing that it looked like it had been exposed to water. So I have a look in behind the battery, there was a puddle of water there because the drain was blocked with dirt/leaves. There was no obvious evidence that the IPDB had been submersed but it may have happened. It looks like it is supposed to slide out of the base but I couldn't figure out how to release the clips. The car is running a haltech platinum pro (plug-in piggy back), so I'm planning to disconnect that tomorrow and rule that out. Otherwise hoping the service manual will shed some light, (I'll try to come down to the shop and see you Chris). I couldn't figure out how to release the plugs on the ECU, it looked like there was a screw that needed to be turned 90degrees but I couldn't find a suitable tool to turn it.

Unfortunately it is completely stranded in the driveway, absolutely no throttle (idles only). A friend is lending me a throttle on Friday so hopefully that will shed some light. I'll still come down and see you though.

Thanks for quick reply, found a spare locally that I can borrow next weekend to see if it fixes my problem. I'll keep you in mind if I can't get it.

Thanks Chris, I pulled the pedal out and checked the sensor with my multimeter, both sides seemed to be working. I'll come down on Friday and see you.

As per title, it's for an 03 manual coupe 350gt. let us know if you've got something

Any chance we can get that file up again please Commsman?

FWIW, I've got an R32 GTST steering wheel on my A31.

Yeah, the older skylines I would've suggested a powerFC, tried and tested. As for my situation, I went with the Platinum Pro Plug In (350z). It retains the factory ECU to maintain functionality and intercepts the fuel and ignition control. So at the end I didn't loose any features.

R32 Skyline bonnet stay is a direct fit. I hate seeing people prop their bonnets up with a pole or block of wood, it's an accident waiting to happen.

I'm running Haltech's platinum pro harness 350z. I got hi-power racing in slacks creek to put it in for me, no major hassles, had to mod a bit of the intercooler piping to suit and that was about it. Without a boost controller it runs 5psi and came out with 270hp (went in with 210hp) and I think it was a relatively conservative tune.

I just installed the same kit last month, what ECU are you planning to run?

I'd like to see Autech series 1, "widened" mouth, symmetrical hole on the drivers side, and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

The first word that springs to mind is the colour burns into my eyes..... in a good way. Very bold but looks the treat.

Best thing to do would be take a photo of your car with your headlights facing against a wall, you will be able to see the beam cut off pattern on the wall.

That would be great if you could

The black one at the top.

My theory is that they'd have it, but locating it in the parts catalogue is something else.

Hi all, I've been trying to diagnose the reason why my fog lamps don't work (haven't been working since I bought the car over a year ago). Checking the plug for the fog light switch inside the indicator stalk and the fuse behind the battery were the only two things I was able to find in my research, (both were already fine). While I was in the fuse box behind the battery I saw there was an empty space for a relay. I removed the top relay (which I then discovered is for the headlamps) and put it in the empty spot and now my fog lamps work! My question now is, where can I get a replacement relay? I made a trip to my local nissan dealer they are very helpful with spare parts for imports and spent a lot of time looking through their "fast" catalogue for the relay in particular but no luck. So unless anyone has any advice I'm thinking my options are looking through similar aged nissans at the wreckers for a replacement or just getting a standard automotive horn relay and adapting it with a few wires and spade connectors.

Dept of transport has a mod code for brake system modifications. I don't see it being a problem. If you are concerned about people noticing they aren't stock due to the visual appearance, just paint black over the wilwood logo.

Come up alongside a silver V35 coupe southbound on the Gateway this evening. Then drove past 30Five on Logan Rd, it's got some stance to it.

I put a walbro in mine about 5 years ago, never had a problem with it... except that I get fuel surge on a particular corner when I get below half a tank. I've since added a surge tank and an external pump in the boot.

Besides possible height difference in the struts (especially the rears) the front coilovers use 2x 14mm diameter bolts on the hub. Whereas the S13/A31 hubs use 12mm bolts. I wouldn't recommend drilling out the hubs to accommodate a 14mm bolt. You could try getting a couple rings machined to sit in the coilover bracket reducing it to 12mm.

My understanding was that the SR conversion requires the crossmember from a silvia even if it is going into a skyline. Perhaps you can use custom mounts or something otherwise. Cefiro's are funny with gearbox mounts. I used an S13 manual gbox crossmember to convert my originally auto RB20 to manual, but the same crossmember didn't work so well with the SR conversion. If your cefiro is factory manual then the case may be different.