daisu

Is the middle picture after you've attacked it with the thinners?

Mine is an '88 model, only goes to 8k and the looks like the one on the right. I think the different style numbers depended on the badge (SE, Sports, Sports Cruising etc). The cluster in the original post goes up to 9k, but it is the same style as the one on the right, which only goes to 8k. Also, my cluster doesn't seem to have a check engine light, is it supposed to be next to the cat temp sensor?

I thought the 8k/9k thing depended on manual/auto. Want to see photos of toffy's work, and what price is on those factory white gauges?

This is the T-5 bulb that I was talking about, I'm gonna go looking in other auto shops today for something suitable.

In the same boat, the cluster looked orange, so I used three T-10 Narva Arctic Blue bulbs and the green coating is now visible. I couldn't find anything T-5 sized though, except for these Monza LED bulbs, but I chose blue and it actually coloured that part of the dash blue. I'm hoping this green coating comes off with a wipe of thinners

Tools needed: - Medium sized Phillips head screwdriver - Small size Flat head screwdriver, or similar flat tool for bending tabs. Time taken, 30mins tops, most likely 15mins. I am completely trashed after a full day of drinking, so it took me 15 mins just to remove cluster. There are 4 screws in the cluster surround (the bit with air vents). There are 4 screws holding the cluster in, and 4 plugs connected to the back of the cluster (probably 3 or 2 if you have factory manual). Once the cluster is out, and in your hands, clear a space on your work bench (or equivalent area). Looking at the cluster, you will see the clear cover has 4 tabs at the top and 4 at the bottom, push these tabs in to remove the clear cover. Don't fiddle with the gauge needles, you will probably put them out of calibration! Then there is another plastic surround, also 4 tabs at the top and 4 tabs at the bottom, remove this too. You will now see the individual gauges and if you look hard enough, you can see the green sleeves around some of the bulbs (1 either side of the speedo and tacho, making total of 4). The sleeves are difficult to get to, so you need to remove the gauges completely. Looking at the back of the cluster you will see 3 bolts behind the tacho, remove these. Lift the tacho carefully from the cluster. Now you have full access to 2 of the green sleeves. Use your flat head screwdriver to get the sleeves out of the cluster. Reinsert your tacho into the cluster and replace the bolts into the back of the tacho, there are 4 holes for bolts. Put 1 in each side and 1 in the top. Repeat the same process for your speedo. If there are any marks on your gauge face plates or clear cover, wipe them clean, then replace the plastic covers. Replace any bulbs if you removed them. Plug the cluster back into the car and screw it in place. Test it works properly. If all is good replace the cluster surrond and screw it in place. You may see that the gauge faceplates have a green coating on the back, but this doesn't seem to affect the colouration (much). Once completed the gauges look alot whiter, but if you are picky like me, you will notice they aren't as white as the picture in the first post, they look a fair bit orange. This is probably due to the fact the standard bulbs are incandescent. In this other post, a guy has replaced his R33 dash bulbs with compatible aftermarket parker bulbs, I will investigate tomorrow whether this is compatible with cefiro and if it makes decent results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=LED+cluster

GREAT SCOTT!!

It could be backlash? If the diff is in the car... lift the car up on stands, put it in gear, take the handbrake off, climb under the car, see how much you can rotate the wheel/halfshaft before the input shaft/tailshaft rotates. If there is excessive slop between the input shaft and the crownwheel it will make noise and could chew out your crownwheel.

One of my mates just did this conversion on his R33 he ordered the conversion guards through JDM Garage, just make custom brackets for the headlights, bonnet and bumper.

Thats a good point about the starter. If your car is close, you would probably hear them trying to turn the car over, even though it won't start. Plus you can bypass startermotor immobillisation by push starting.

Body line is wrong, and the guards foul the drivers door. I'd recommend getting aftermarket fibreglass laurel front guards, trim them a bit and smooth over the body lines. A mate was telling me the other day about someone supplying readymade laufiro conversion guards?

Hey man, RB20 ECU pinnout http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=45094 Pin 18 is for the fuel pump relay. Should beable to figure out which wires off the ignition barrel for your starter motor with a multimeter. I'd also suggest wiring up a hidden kill switch/switches. Pick anything that sounds important from the ECU pinnout, and wire it in while you are doing the fuel pump relay. Goodluck

New meaning to the term backseat driver? Judging by that exhaust, It must be the RD28 (diesel) EDIT: Oh WTF, I just read the article and it is an RD28!!!

Assuming the dump and front pipe are aftermarket upgraded and not factory... Would you be willing to split from the rest of the exhaust and post to Brisbane? -Luke

When you say factory intercooler and piping, do you mean all of the piping (turbo to cooler, and cooler to crossover pipe?) or just that 1 pipe that is pictured with the cooler? -luke

I'd say it's better to check with a multimeter as it shows polarity. Also the test lamp will light up at voltages under 12V, whereas the multimeter will tell you the voltage. I had a very similar problem. First (as said before) test voltage between negative wire and positive wire (should be 12V), then test between negative wire and remote wire (should be 12V). If that looks okay, connect the wires to the amp terminals. Amp still not turning on... Now test the voltage at the terminals of the amp with the wires connected. I ended up with only 7Volts between the negative terminal and positive terminal/remote terminal. The problem was a bad connection between the negative wire and the car body, fixed by using a different position and making sure i cleaned the surfaces properly.

I didn't end up finding the computer, so I replaced the p/s pump. It was a real pain in the arse to fit the replacement on, especially when everything is covered in p/s fluid and the sun is beating down on you in the arvo. Turns out it was the pump and not the computer or the rack (thank god for that).

I removed all the hicas related lines and left the front power steering completely alone. Then I had 1 spare outlet from the pump, and 1 spare inlet to the reservoir which I connected together. Hopefully I'll find the hicas computer tomorrow.

There are no spare plugs or computer under my parcel shelf. There is a computer behind the drivers kick panel but I'm assuming this is the auto computer, it is plugged in anyway. I didn't think the orientation of the return lines on the reservoir would make a difference, as it is just a collector. Can someone tell me what the hicas computer looks like, how big it is, it has 2 connectors right? How many pins are in the connectors? Is there any obvious writing on the computer? Thanks

This part isn't a substitute for cefiro.. but it fits anyways. Cefiros and i think laurels are equipped with gas struts to hold the bonnet up. R32s and S13s use a rod to prop the bonnet up. I've noticed on most cefiros that the gas struts are either rooted, or well on their way out. This is a royal pain if you are doing work under the bonnet. The bonnet prop from the R32 fits straight into the cefiro, there are factory mounting holes for the prop to sit in the rad support and bonnet. Takes 5 mins to install. Heaps less work than completely removing the bonnet while you work in the engine bay, and alot cheaper than replacing your gas struts I'm quite sure that A31 RB20DET brakes are equivalent to S13 SR20. I had A31 Non-Turbo, and the brakes were equivalent to S13 CA. As skypy12 said you should be able to match the pads up if you take them into a shop.

Almost completed my engine/gearbox conversion on my cefiro. I only put power steering fluid in today and found that the power steering isn't working. The power steering and hicas was working before the conversion started. Since then I have replaced the rear subframe with a non-hicas item, removed the rear lines, the hicas solenoid, and looped the hicas supply straight into the reservoir. I've read all the stuff I can find on power steering/hicas issues on SAU.com and NS.com Here is a list of things that I have considered and what I've tried. The power steering pump on the new engine is rooted? I disconnected the lines off the pump and turned the engine on, fluid came pissing out the fittings so I'm assuming that the pump is working. I can't try my old pump (which I know works) as I don't have it anymore. Issues with the power steering solenoid Battery is fully charged and alternator is working, so it's not a voltage (or lack of) issue. I have a spare R32 rack (non-hicas model), and can see the solenoid is mounted on the rack next to the connection block and has 2 wires coming out of it. I can't find a solenoid like this on the cefiro rack. Do cefiros have a power steer solenoid on the rack? I have considered swapping the R32 rack and lines in, but the R32 lines don't appear to have a pressure sensor (apparently it's an idle up for the power steer pump?). Speed Sensor My speedometer is working, but that is cable operated. Is there a way to test my speed sensor? Hicas Computer I don't know where the hicas computer is located on the cefiro. The hicas warning light was on when I didn't have fluid in the reservoir, but it has turned off since I filled it with fluid. I jacked the front of the car up, and turned the steering wheel left to right with the engine on, to try bleed the air out, but it didn't have any effect. I could try the R32 rack, but I don't know if it does work (it came out of my half cut) and it doesn't have that pressure switch on the supply line. I'm assuming since the steering was working before the conversion that the problem is either electrical related (speed sensor or hicas computer?) or that the p/s pump isn't making enough pressure. Is there a better way of testing the pump, besides disconnecting the lines to see if fluid comes out? Would appreciate any input related to this problem, thanks, Luke

Put a wheel clamp over your wheel (american style) so they can't move the car? If you had the removable steering wheel and you were going out for the night (ie dinner/movies) I'd leave it in the spare tyre well.

I'd guess that the engines themselves are physically the same (besides the lack of BOV) and that the power difference is in the ECU. Though the difference in power output is negligible from what I remember.

I'm going to have to try to make mine look that clean. I'm hoping to have it all finished and rolling on the road by the end of January. -BTW, I have an R32 engine in mine so I got a BOV

Hey people, No real purpose to this thread, just for personal information wanted to know.... Cefiro's were not equipped with a factory BOV?? What about factory intercooler?? Were C33 laurels different?? Or did they get the fancy factory BOV and intercooler?? -Luke