daisu

I have an SR20 in my cefiro. Use a silvia front crossmember. Radiator will need to be from an S13/180sx or you can use an RB series radiator if you extend the top radiator hose to the other side. have read that some combination of gearbox crossmember will fit but I couldn't figure it out, just modified my current one. Can't remember exactly about the tailshaft, I think if you unbolt them at the center bearing and swap the front half over it works. heater lines are just rubber hose, you can easily make it fit. Needs a few wiring modifications but I didn't do the work so can't tell you there. I would definitely do this conversion again to R32/cefiro/laurel, the RB20 just doesn't compare.

V35 Rear brakes use the drum in disc setup for the handbrake just like the previous skylines so should work in that respect.

The emanage ultimate is about a third of the price of the haltech platinum pro. I'll have to talk to my tuner again and see what he has to say. Also forgot to add, this is for a forced induction setup. Standard motor but it's getting a turbo kit.

Hi all, Have a 350GT V35 2003 manual coupe. I'm currently looking at installing a standalone aftermarket ECU and I'm wondering what kind of important features I may loose or any other problems I'll face. Anything like VDC? On the other hand, I've had a bit of a look but haven't seen much about reflashing the standard ECU in the V35. I'd much rather have it reflashed if it's possible. Thanks, Luke

If you are just looking for a replacement unit to get your aircon working again, then the climate control from the S13 will fit straight up.

Yep, if you plug a digital unit into the loom it will wreck it. If your mates S13 has 2 black and 1 white plug, then it will be an analogue unit and will be no different to the one in your cefiro.

Full tank til red light comes on isn't going to be the same in every car. I don't think my fuel light even works. A better comparison would be fill up the tank and reset the trip meter. Next time you fill the tank note how many KM's on the trip meter and how many litres on the pump to give you a litre/KM ratio. Even this is a problem as diff ratios/wheels/tyre combinations will put your speedometer out which will also affect your trip meter.

Location?

Which one has the 25 in it?

I have 4300k in mine. If you want a "whiter" look, then aim slightly higher, but as said, the higher the color rating the worse the visibility will be. There is a reason that 4300k is the choice for factory cars.

Whoever buys it (iron chef) has to tear the dash apart to figure out how the digital climate control is working.

Sounds like a poor wiring job. There is a connector near the ECU that joins the engine loom to the dash loom for things like RPM, engine warning lights etc. If that plug is not wired correctly then you would get these problems. Speedo is a bit odd, try another cefiro cluster see if that fixes it. Any cluster other than a cefiro/laurel is going to require rewiring. If you are going to use a cluster out of an S13/14/15 you will have to install a speed sensor on your gearbox and wire it into the car for the speedometer to work. You will also have problems with the tachometer as it will be designed for a 4cylinder motor as opposed to your 6 cylinder.

Does the interior light come on when you open the drivers door? I had a similar problem with the passenger side (seat wouldn't auto forward/back when flipping the seat) one of the other symptoms was the interior lights not working. The source of my problem though was the people repairing my window motor used generic parts and had to modify the wiring to get it to work, I think they disconnected the door switch but not sure, it's somewhere to start looking.

I wouldn't go as far as saying that. My ECU came tuned from japan as an engine package. Admittedly I have the SAFC attached to help it as the tune would not suit conditions in Australia with the different fuel and climate, but as for the way it drives you would never suspect it was an aftermarket tune. Though no point in buying one from japan just to plug in and use it here. Would be the same mentality as using a 2nd hand PowerFC and not retuning it.

The $600 dollar option will be a locally made windscreen, whereas the $2000 one from japan will be a genuine nissan option. If the insurance company is paying then no reason to get it from japan. If I was paying, then I'd be getting the $600 version.

Single turbo on a V shaped engine. The exhaust from the far bank is piped around the back of the engine to join onto the turbo manifold. It is a little unbalanced but it works. I'm going to guess that the only real difference in the engine bay between the G35 and the V35 is the position of the steering column, as the brake/clutch masters are behind the partition in the firewall. Assuming that, the only problem should be the exhaust pipe that runs behind the motor which should be easily solved by getting an exhaust shop to make a new pipe to suit. I'm looking into the Greddy twin kit, but my concern is that the manifold/turbo will foul on the column, which is going to be a bit more difficult to solve on the spot.

I would suggest against a chip ECU's unless you are using it with the engine for which it was tuned (ie I bought an engine package from japan with the chipped ECU) Even still, I have a SAFC on the side to adjust it for Australian conditions. For a DE+T you really need to tune ignition and fuel. A piggy back (emanage, SAFC etc) will only do fuel maps, and only to a small extent. Instead of just considering Nistune versus PowerFC, what about who is going to tune it? It will be easy enough to find someone to tune them but are they your preferred tuner? No point in saving a few hundred dollars to get a Nistune if you end up with a below par tune.

Pretty certain that R33/32 rears are the same size. Fronts are 16mm larger diameter on the R33.

Not sure exactly, but if you read into S13 conversion articles they say not to plug the digital unit into the analogue loom or you will risk damaging the unit. Something like the fan speed or the fresh/recirc control fails to work after plugging it into the wrong loom. If you have a mate with a digital unit in an S13, you could swap them over to check whether your unit is still functioning.

I put a band expander in mine and found that only some stations worked okay, others were terrible depending on the location. Then the CD player stopped working so I bought an ipod and plugged it into the AUX input. The ipod has an FM tuner on it which works better than the FM expander ever did. Also, if you are lucky, you may be able to pick up a couple FM channels on the factory TV tuner. I found the other day I can pick up triple J (107.7) on TV channel 3.

I should have mentioned, you will do irreversible damage to the digital unit by plugging it into an analogue loom.

No the wire colours don't match. I found that the S13 analogue climate control unit plugs in and works straight up with the cefiro. So I figured that the cefiro loom has an identical pinout to the S13 loom (when the S13 has the analogue subloom connected). Then I compared the S13 analogue and digital sublooms side by side to try and pick out what the wiring differences were, and reverse those differences in that adaptor loom. It's a real pain in the arse and I ended up ditching it because it wasn't working properly. It may have just been my temp sensors needed replacing but it could have been a wiring mistake or a damaged control unit and I didn't want to mess around with it anymore. I'd say you would have better chances if you could get your hands on an S13 dash loom, that way you'd be able to trace the wires back to the individual parts (blower motor, mixer door, sensors etc) and then do the same in the cefiro, and go as far as modifying the cefiro body loom so that you can plug the S13 subloom straight in.

A different cluster won't change your speedo reading. The speed signal is generated by the sensor on the gearbox, you can get different sized pinions to fit on the speed sensor to suit different gear ratios.

Hmm, odd, check the shape of the floor pans? Are they the same in both cars? Check your VIN numbers against nissan FAST, will tell you if they were factory auto or manual.

I've got nothing against the 20 or the 25. My suggestion was that if he was considering a VG swap simply because of the cost factor, then it would be worth looking at an SR swap due to it being a lot simpler (compared to the VG). What about instead of the RB25, put an RB30 bottom end with a 25 head.