daisu

Also, those tape deck adaptors introduce alot of "hissing" noise

Can it still display the vehicle details such as fuel consumption etc

Been looking at heading over to Japan for a holiday and wouldn't mind seeing some drifting and whatnot but I have no idea where to start as I have never been overseas. I googled a couple things but I'm not sure what I should be looking for. So far this looks sort of similar to what I would want to go for. www.k-toursosaka.com Has anyone used these guys or anything similar and can give me some pointers?

If the 4pots from an S15 fit, then I'd be looking at using skyline brakes (alloy calipers versus cast iron). The R33 GTST will bolt on, disc diameter is 296mm (as opposed to the s15 280mm).

For some reason I didn't realise this was going on a skyline. In that case, I can vouch for a turnflow cooler as I used to have one.

Doesn't look like that much extra piping. Especially when you consider some of the other alternatives like a turnflow frontmount on an RB20 or 25. Plenty of piping there.

Does he ship interstate?

Or because you can't hear the turbo winding up as much you are driving more sedately?

Fitted a replacement RB20 throttle this arvo, pressure test came up good. It was still loosing a little pressure but very slowly and I couldn't hear it. Idle is very smooth now. Took it for a drive, still hesitating and bucking a bit but I'm hoping that it's just have to adjust the timing.

As mentioned, check there isn't something lodged in the viscous hub. Otherwise, remove the fan and replace the hub, surely be able to find something similar on either RB20/25 or 30

Found one.

As per title, the butterfly shaft seal has blown out on mine so looking for one that isn't leaking. Would like to pick up in brisbane area. Thanks, Luke 0432 848 627

Welded up the leaks on the intercooler pipes but the throttle is leaking quite badly. Incase anyone wants to know the RB25 throttles don't fit on the RB20 plenum. Can't remember whether it was series 1 or 2, but one has a TPS that is incompatible with the RB20 (unless you were to modify the wiring). I didn't try fitting it. The other one has a TPS with the same style plugs for the TPS and throttle switch but it was physically larger. Also, any sort of software that interfaces with the ECU via the consult port makes it really easy to adjust your TPS (can see TPS voltage and throttle switch position).

The one with higher calorific content

Hooked the air compressor up to the inlet this evening and found quite a few leaks. 4 leaks where I had plugged unused vacuum lines with bolts, was able to seal them off by tightening the bolt further into the vacuum line. Had a leak where the hose clamp wasn't tight enough on a pipe join. One of the intercooler pipes has a leak where a hole has been welded up. And there is a leak on the throttle body butterfly shaft seal (air is coming out from behind the throttle position sensor). That was at a test pressure of 0.5 Bar, keen to see what happens at 1 Bar.

UPDATE! This arvo I unplugged all the injectors and put my LED into the plug for injector 2, lights up okay. Plugged it into the connector for injector 1, lights up okay. Then, because I was worried about the high impedance of the LED giving a false indication, I got another spare injector and plugged it into the loom for injector 2 and held it in my hand. Turned the CAS by hand and the injector was clicking. Did the same for the loom connector on injector 1, same clicking noise. So, that proved loom was okay. Plugged injector 2 and 3 back into the loom and the plug for injector 1 plugged into the spare injector in my hand. Again it was clicking. This proved that with the ECU was able to drive the 3 injectors without problem (remember they are batch fired). So then I unplugged all the injectors and reconnected the loom to only injector 1 in the rail. Again, it is clicking. This proved that the injector is firing. Next I removed the sparkplugs and coilpacks for cylinders 1 and 2 and checked the spark across the plug while turning the CAS by hand. There was no difference in the appearance of the spark between the two. Swapped spark plugs and tested again, no difference. Swapped coilpacks, tested again, no difference. So, now I'm confident that the spark plugs are firing okay. Put it all back together and still not firing. Things I hadn't proved. Compression in this cylinder. Fuel rail pressure. Is the injector flowing or clogged. Cylinder 1 was working fine until.... I installed the untested injector. And Cylinder 5 (the one that was originally missing) started working as soon as I put in a known working injector. So the next logical step was to put a known working injector on cylinder 1. Lifted the rail again, removed the questionable injector from cylinder 1, shifted the know working injector from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1. Installed another spare (untested) injector onto cylinder 2. Started it and now running on 6 cylinders ! Though after all this I still have doubts about the condition of the untested injector I put in cylinder 2. Also, I think there is a leak on the inlet piping because it has alot of hesitation and stutter when driving under normal conditions. So I'm going to make up a cap to go in the turbo inlet and pressurize the piping using an air compressor, should be able to find leaks without the engine running then.

Which parts of the handbrake are you after? The drums on the rear hubs? the cable between the rear hubs and the center of the car? Manual handbrake lever? or Auto park brake? Should be able to use front and dump pipe from an R32 RB20, then if you can't find a cat back just get an exhaust shop to make one. I will probably be pulling the engine out of my cefiro in about a month, then I'll have a loom to suit R32 RB20det into cefiro.

The boost pressure in the manifold restricts flow from the injectors, which is why we have rising rate regs. If the manifold was at atmospheric pressure, and the fuel rail at 38psi (base pressure), there is a differential pressure of 38psi. If the manifold pressure is 20psi and the rail pressure was 58psi you still have a differential of 38psi. Therefore at any given duty cycle, the flow rate will be the same regardless of the amount of boost. (providing the fuel reg is sized correctly and operating within it's limits).

Do you accept calls in the evening? Or I'll call you tomorrow?

Anyone familiar with a noid light? You plug it into the injector loom plug and it lights up with every injector pulse. I did plug an LED into the injector plug corresponding with the missing cylinder and it was lighting up.... But I read somewhere that you could get false results using a high impedance device (like a volt meter or an LED). Just had a thought though, I have spare injectors in the garage, I could just plug that into the loom and I'd be able to feel/hear it clicking straight away.

So I bought this V35 a few weeks ago from a used car dealership in Brisbane. It was a fresh import they had complied but not registered yet. Anyways, the day after I bought it I went to wind the passenger window down and it bounced a couple times before stopping. Couldn't get it to go up or down without assistance (read pulling/pushing the window with my hands). So I take it back to the dealership (3 month stat warranty) and show them the problem, tell them that it's going to need a new window reg assembly etc etc. They outsourced the work to a local autoelectrician (so I didn't get to talk directly to the person who did the work). Today (8 days after dropping it off) I get a phone call saying it's fixed and ready to pick it up, so I drive down there this afternoon. First problem, the owner of the dealer was telling me they couldn't get the auto up/down (when you close/open the door) to function. Immediately I was like wtf not, the window won't seal properly and/or it will eventually wreck the seal. Not happy. 2nd problem, the auto up/down function (as in push the button on the door card to the 2nd click and the window winds all the way up/down) was not working. The window stops moving as soon as you let your finger off the button. It's not the switch because it continues to wind in either direction when the button is pressed to the auto position. This wasn't a problem before. 3rd problem, the interior lights do not come on when the door passenger door is opened. Again, this problem is new. 4th problem, the passenger seat does not automatically slide forwards when you lean the back of the seat forwards (to allow passengers in the back). The seat does move forwards by using the forward/back button on the seat. Again, this was not a problem before. So it looks like the door switch on the B pillar is not working. The door seal auto up/down is controlled from the door switch, and makes sense that the seat won't automatically slide forwards if the passenger door isn't open. But again, this was not an issue previously. The guys at the dealership were clueless about these problems and were suggesting looking at the fuses. I figured out the door switch wasn't working and their expressions changed to "oh I see what's going on now". They mentioned a few things like their auto sparky was scared off the price of the new window reg assembly and that they managed to get it to work like this by doing that etc etc. So, my assumption is that after seeing the price of a genuine new assembly, they've tried repairing it, bodged it somehow so they disconnected a couple things to get it "working". Unfortunately the stat warranty means I am obliged to take it back to the dealer to get these things fixed otherwise I'd be taking it to Chris or a nissan dealer myself. They said they'd organise another time for their sparky to look at it and have it fixed overnight, but I'm still worried they are going to bodge it again. Chris, this dealer gave me your card when I was buying the car, they said that you did some conversion work on their imports. I told them you had a good rep with pretty much everything electrical on these cars and that they should consult you about this problem with my car. I'm hoping you can help them out because I don't think they know what they are really doing. Or even convince them to have the repairs done by you? Any other advice? Thanks, Luke

Won't be able to look at it again until thursday probably. We'll see how it goes then?

A bit of history before we start. Car is originally an RB20E auto Cefiro. 2 years ago the engine and gearbox was swapped with a manual RB20DET from an R32 skyline. We used the loom and ECU from the skyline so all engine parts etc are skyline parts (not cefiro/laurel bits). Besides the occasional leaking cooler pipe and dodgy coil pack it hasn't missed a beat for the last 2 years. Recently I got a Z32 ECU that had been socketed and remapped (to suit a VG30) and I bought a nistune kit for the Z32 ECU. I put the nistune gear in the Z32 ECU and loaded in factory RB20 maps. After comparing the pinouts for the Z32 and the R32 ECUs, the only wires that needed to be swapped was injector 2 and 5, so I did that at the ECU connector. So the RB20 was running fine on the Z32 ECU for a few weeks until one morning it started running on 5 cylinders. Thinking it was probably the spark plugs I bought a set of 6 NGK coppers and did that and an oil change. Still running on 5 cylinders (cylinder no 5 is not firing). So then I pulled out the nistune, swapped injector 2 and 5 again (back to normal) and put the standard R32 skyline ECU back in. Still missing on 5. Pulled the coilpack and swapped with cylinder 2, no change. So I borrowed from my mates working R32 his coilpack loom and ignitor still no luck. I borrowed a tester and checked that cylinder 140psi, a bit low but still within specs according the the R32 engine manual. I got a couple of spare RB20 injectors (but they haven't been confirmed as working) I pulled the rail out, removed injector 5, replaced it with the injector from cylinder 1 (known working) and put one of the unknown spare injectors into cylinder 1. Still missing on cylinder 5, cylinder 1 was working with the untested injector. The RB20 injectors are batch fired (1, 3 and 5 injectors fire at the same time, their respective ECU pins are joined inside the ECU). So I swapped the wires at the ECU for injector 1 and injector 5 (pin 101 and 110). Now cylinder 5 is working, but cylinder 1 is not. So having thought that the problem was identified to the ECU I returned the wires for injectors 1 and 5, but cylinder 5 continued to run and cylinder 1 continues to not fire. Tried wiggling the wires at the ECU connector and it is definitely bolted down straight and correctly. So now I was trying to identify why cylinder 1 won't fire, I've swapped coilpacks, coilpack looms, ignitors, sparkplugs, I plugged an LED into the injector loom plug to see that there is a signal getting there from the ECU. TLDR - Cylinder 5 wasn't working, checked coilpacks, coilpack loom, ignitor, sparkplugs, swapped injectors, no luck. Swapped wires for injector 1 and 5, cylinder 5 works but cylinder 1 stops. Returned wires, cylinder 5 continues to work but cylinder 1 now not working. Can't find the cause of the problem. So now I've run out of ideas. Going to try a spare standard R32 ECU tomorrow.

I was thinking about something like this, electric powered pumps for the oil/water/pwr steering etc would mean not having to worry about the water pump cavitating at high revs, better oil control?

The exterior shrouds or frames are about $530 shipped. Not too bad I guess. Then factor in another few hundred for a HID kit, and a pair of HID projector lamps.