Birth

Hi, for sale is my 2002 V35 GT8 sedan 145,xxx kms registered to January 2018 $1,900. VQ35DE 3.5l engine (200 kw), 8-speed CVT gearbox with paddles for shifting. Pros | The body is in great condition, suspension good with recent updates to the front upper and lower control arm bushes and front and rear sway bar links, interior is in good overall condition (though there are some tears on the driver's seat bolsters), CVT gearbox works really well and never had any troubles at all, tyres and brakes in fair condition, well maintained car. I've owned the car for ten years and am the first Australian owner with the car driven by my wife for about the first eight years. Cons | F0 error on CD player (aux in cable works for phones/iPods), tears on the drivers seat bolsters, 10-cent coin size dent on the passenger-side front guard, diff has a bit of a whine, car has an issue managing temperature on long trips which is undiagnosed but may be related to a head gasket leak (described in more detail below). Recently, the car's temperature has become erratic on trips greater than 40km (sometimes longer >50km and sometimes less ~35km). The car runs normally / good with-out any issues at lower distances. On occasions the temperature will rise and fall with-out the need to stop. On other occasions I've chosen to stop for <5 minutes (to avoid running up too much temperature) after which it sometimes will run again with-out a problem; on other occasions I've chosen to stop a few times (it's 51km from home to work). The issue is undiagnosed; these symptoms are described in the workshop manual as potentially an exhaust leak in one of the head gaskets. Note though that there is no mixing of the coolant and oil. As mentioned, the car can be driven shorter distances with no troubles and is available for test drives. The car is located in Elderslie NSW. I can be contacted by PM or phone on 0435 844 866.

Pics?

Got one from Nissan. Around $60.

Hi guys, I have lost one of the centre caps from my 2002 V35 sedan (oem wheels). Contact me on 0435844866 if you have one to sell. Thanks, Ben

Clarion? It says Bose on the front?

I am still after one of these. Alternatively, is there someone in Sydney who repairs them?

Hi guys, I would like to buy fully functioning 2002 V35 GT8 Bose stereo to replace mine which has an error. Thanks, Ben

With regard to replacing a failed unit with an OEM/JDM unit; there are a few different facias with different colours etc. am I able to use my facia with the stereo unit from a different car (assuming it is the Bose 6-stack like I have in my 2001 350GT sedan). Thanks, Ben

Chris, does changing the radio mean that I won't have air conditioning? If they are connected now (ie the radio is making the air conditioning not work) how will the air conditioning react when there is no (factory) radio at all? Ben

Was there a solution to this? My 2002 V35 has done this once before but corrected itself soon after. Today it has stayed in this state (no radio, none of the buttons do anything and aircon on cold / auto). Thanks, Ben

One end of each control arm has the shells. On the other end the bush presses in without shells. Also, to clarify on my point about removing the old shells; I used a hacksaw, I removed the hacksaw blade and inserted it into the control arm end. I reattached the blade to the hacksaw and cut out the old shell from the inside while trying to be careful not to cut into the arm too much. This actually worked quite well.

Hi guys. Thanks for the enquiries. The car sold to the first guys who saw it.

There have been a few enquiries about the condition of the interior. Here are some pictures. I intended on removing the guages before selling the car, but I'm happy to leave them in for an extra $100. They are Automter Pro Comp boost, fuel pressure and oil pressure

I'm selling my 1993 R32 GTS4. The reason for sale is that I am 33 now and getting soft! I have loved this car but it's time for a change. I live in Harrington Park NSW. Being an R32 GTS4 it has ATTESSA 4WD and has an RB20DET engine. I have had the car for about 11 years. When I bought it there were about 32,000km now there are 262,191km. There car runs the original engine and gearbox which have remained strong. Externally the car looks good (as shown in the pictures) and has a great interior. The car is registered until October 2012. Over the years I have included a number of non-stock parts which I have listed below. I can be contacted here or on the phone 0435 844 866. Thanks, Ben There are some some negative elements to the car including Slight amount of rust behind the driver's rear wheel which I have cut out but not repaired (the cheap option would be to get Type-M rear quarters which would entirely cover the area Rust in the driver's side B-pillar following a crash repair from about eight years ago Needs four new tyres Needs a new clutch (the car drives fine but the clutch is making a noise which should be addressed) Non-stock parts R34 RB25DET Neo OP6 turbo GTR intercooler K&N air filter Bosch VL turbo in-tank fuel pump 3 inch front-pipe back exhaust (cat back is HKS) Tilbrook Auto and Dyno chip Apexi AFM (old-style) Sparco steering and KYB boss kit Stealth shift light 4WD on/off switch ECUTalk Consult Cable Pioneer 5 1/4 inch 3-way front speakers with Phillips tweeters Pioneer 6 inch 3-way rear speakers Biltstien shocks King springs Nolathane front upper control arm bushes Front and rear strut bars Cusco brake stopper R32 GTR (non-Brembo) 297mm front brakes Slotted rear brake rotors Braided brake lines Genuine N1 boot lip on blanked boot lid Fibreglass N1-style side skirts Type-M front bar Removed items ABS removed Air conditioning removed Rear-wheel steer removed Stereo head unit removed Rear windscreen wiper removed

Hi Troy, I took another look tonight. First thing is I checked that the power wire is getting a good connection at the battery and its fine. With the relay, to avoid any issues, I temporarily bridged it from the positive terminal so as to avoid any question about inconsistent power from my splicing effort. Test 1 If I unplug everything and plug in only power, earth and remote - no protect mode If I then plug in the RCAs - no protect mode (with nothing attached to the other end of the RCA cables) If I then plug in the RCAs - no protect mode (with with an iPhone on the other end of the RCA cables - I didn't have another source handy) After having unplugged the iPhone but leaving the RCA cables in the amp-side If I wire up the sub to bridged to Channel B - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker)to Channel A / left - protect mode Test 2 Disconnect the 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - still in protect mode Disconnect the 6 inch (left-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / left - comes out of protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (left-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / left - protect mode Conclusion It seems that there is something wrong with the Channel A / left circuit. No matter what speaker I connect to it, no matter what else is connected to the amp (other than power, earth and remote obviously) the result is the same - protect mode. Do you agree? What are my options from here. I am ok (not great) with electronics; that is I can de-solder/solder parts. Is it as easy as replacing a component with-in the amp? In your first reply you said it might be a voicecoil. How can I confirm this? Thanks again for your help. Ben

Carbon34 - thanks for the quick response. I'll have to confirm some of the stuff tonight / tomorrow but my thoughts so far are Does the problem follow the channel 1 speakers , if you remove all rca? | Yes. The unit goes into protect when the Channel A / Left / Positive is connected If you swap the left or right speakers which every is channel 1 in your wiring? | I have tried all of the speakers on Channel A / Left. It happens no matter which speaker is connected to the terminal and all of the speakers work on any of the other terminals Once again you need to buy a interface preamp to use not direct to iphone , audiocontrol, audison | I have an iPhone cable which connects to the bottom of the iPhone (not the earphone connection) which provides a line-out via RCA. The purpose of the cable is to connect to home stereos etc. I'll try that as I gather it will have the same effect as running through a headunit etc? Same 8ga wire 8? | Yes, the same wire is used for the earth that is used for power What are you using for 12v turn on? A relay or? | I have spliced an accessories power source on the car And a good clean battery positive connection? | I've checked it previously but I'll have to check again What exactly are you using for speakers? | Pioneer 12 inch sub, Pioneer 6" 3-ways How are the speakers wired ? | The sub is currently connected to Channel A / Right. The 6" speakers are currently connected to Channel B / Left and Right Is the amp getting hot fast? | No *** If I open the amp will I visually be able to see a fried voice coil creating a low ohm load? Thanks heaps for your time and help!

I have installed a Kenwood KAC 8452 amp into my R32. I have set the amp up with no head unit and I plug my iPhone into the amp using the earphone out from my iPhone into the RCA in on the amp which has worked for me previously. The Kenwood KAC 8452 is a four channel amp. I recently bought the amp second hand from eBay. The seller communicated poorly during the sale however in the advertisement the seller described the unit as "This item is second hand but still in good working condition, quite a reliable model from Kenwood". For the purpose of sorting this out I am assuming I wasn't ripped off and the amp normally works. Problem 1 - when I attach a speaker wire to the Channel A left speaker positive outlet on the amp it goes into safe mode. If I leave the Channel A left speaker unconnected the amp seems to work ok. When the amp goes into safe mode, music stops playing and the power light flickers every second or so. Problem 2 - After getting over Problem 1; if I try to turn the volume on the iPhone up over say 60% the amp goes into safe mode. When the amp goes into safe mode, music stops playing and the power light flickers every second or so. If I turn the volume on my iPhone back down music starts playing from the amp again. To resolve the issue I tried relocated the earth wire to a new spot. I drilled a new hole into the metal on the floor of the boot, sanded away the paint and connected the earth wire. The wire I have used is from an amp installation kit that I bought from Supercheap Auto. The wire is 8 AWG. I did not installed the inline fuse that came with the kit. The fuse on the amp itself is not blowing obviously given that the amp gets power all the time (even if it does go into protect mode). This is pretty frustrating and I am tired of driving around with earphones in all the time. Please help.

Hi, I am after a four channel amplifier for less than $80. Must be a brand name e.g. Pioneer, Kenwood, Phillips, Clarion, Sony. Thanks, Ben

Hi, I have a 2002 V35 GT8. On both the driver's and passenger side front door cards, there is an LED under the interior handle which casts a light over the power window switches. The led on the driver's side has stopped working and I'd like to replace it. Does anyone know how to remove this without damage? Thanks, Ben

Hi, I'm experimenting on my car and am after a complete catalytic converter. I'm hoping someone has an OEM one that they've replaced with aftermarket. Thanks, Ben

Thanks guys DB1232 are listed as the non-Brembo pad by Bendix so it looks to be straight forward!

Hi guys, The front brake pads on my 2002 V35 GT8 sedan are worn and I need new ones. I called Nissan who are after $175.50 for the set. I have looked on the Bendix website who list DB1232 as the part number. My local Peps has them for $81.95. Can anyone confirm that DB1232 are the right part / suggest alternatives for a car that is driven very normally. Thanks, Ben

I got an R33 RB25DET alternator for my R32 RB20DET. The alternator bolted up fine The pulley was a little smaller than the RB20 one but it fit up fine and the belt was easy to tension The positive battery fitting on the RB25 one was different - was on a right angle and was for a little but of a larger fitting. The RB20 one did not a have a right angle piece. This did unbolt from the RB25DET one and all was fine from there without modification to the fitting or anything.

I found the Nolathan product ok once installed - but it turns out that there instructions were wrong - they sent me a replacement kit and all! Installation at home was ok. 1. Remove the arms 2. Bash the existing rubber out of the arms 3. Use a hacksaw to evenly cut the brass shells out of the arms (you might need to chisel them out afther you have cut them / use multigrips 4. Press the new shells that come in the kit into the arm (use a press or buy a long bolt and some washers to press them in). 5. Put the new pushes into the arm, grease and install

Bumpedy bump