Birth

Rev-031; I am looking for one of these too; how did you go with your search?

Mate, do you have a brake master cylinder? Is your car ABS on non-ABS equiped?

RB_Ryan; are you able to port up a picture of your brake master cylinder please?

Thanks.

Thanks ActionDan, would you mind terribly taking a picture of what you've got?

ActionDan, you wrote above "use a T piece like some of the others have done". This is something I am interested in; I have started a thread on the topic here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...57#entry4720057. Do you know of any threads that describe / confirm that this works? What have you ended up doing? Thanks, Ben.

Given that there is so much weight on the front of the car and generally such little bias; would it be beneficial to install a bias adjuster to provide greater rear bias to provide less pressure on the fronts and improve overall breaking?

RB_Ryan; I might just take you up on that offer; though I would like to get people's opinion on the t-piece first. If all the ABS module is doing is working as a t-piece; then $5 gets your ABS module out of the car rather than $400-$750 in buying a new master cylinder from Nissan (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Reb-t274032.html&hl=master) or hunting down a non-ABS cylinder second hand. I have noticed that this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...tml&hl=bias it talks about the use of a t-piece. I am not sure if this helps provide opinion.

Hello, I am currently considering removing the ABS module from my R32 GTS4. The reasons that I would like to do this are 1. It will remove another item from my engine bay – I am on a mission to make it an area of business in there 2. Save the 5.5kg or so of weight (as weighed by djr81) 3. Improve the feel of my brakes (refer the soft braking threads) There is one issue that I would like confirmed if possible; can I use a two-hole master cylinder and use a t-piece to connect the front left and front right brakes to the front brakes outlet of the master cylinder? I have attached a before and afetr picture to help with my description. I am aware that non-abs (3-hole) master cylinders are available, however I would like to avoid changing master cylinders to 1. save the time of sourcing a generally hard to find item 2. save confusion around bore sizes and their effectiveness and identification 3. save the cost of replacing my master cylinder For reference (and in case someone has a strong alternative opinion) there was some discussion in previous threads claiming that ATTESSA would stop working if the ABS module was removed. I tested this by unplugging my ABS module. With my ABS unplugged the ATTESSA worked fine. Also, for other people researching the topic, I have listed all of the current ABS removal-related threads below with a brief synopsis. PIPING This is the tread where djr81 states the weight of the unit; it also has a picture of the differences (ABS and non-ABS) workshop manual as posted by huddy. Removing Abs From My R32 Skyline http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal In this thread huddy said that he had removed the abs in his Cefiro showing a diagram with the non-abs three port master cylinder Removing Abs from My R32 Skyline http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal In this thread choku dori had the same idea as me; though this thread remained inconclusive R32 Gtst Abs Removel, Completely get rid of ABS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal In this thread MSRB26 said that he / she had removed the ABS and replaced the lines with no issues at all but did not mention what master cylinder was used. R33 ABS Removal http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal ATTESSA This thread discussed the impact of removing the ABS on ATTESSA. Rowdyr32 believed that it shouldn’t have an impact; though this thread seemed inconclusive. R32 Gtr Abs Removal, yes an other thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal DiRTgarage was quite insistant in this thread that removing ABS would have no affect on the ATTESSA in an R32 GTR in this thread Abs Removal On Bnr32, complete instructions plz ! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal In this thread there was a lot of discussion about the ABS and ATTESSA being electronically linked; however by the end of the thread it seemed that they were not at all. 4wd Not Working After Abs Removal, R32 GTR http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4w...TTESA&st=20 GENERAL This thread was generally inconclusive – it seemed that no-one had performed the work. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal This topic was a general query regarding what was required on huddy’s Cefiro but was inconclusive. Abs Removal, how to? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal This thread was inconclusive with Baz putting a rather negative slant on the topic of ABS removal. This is inconclusive as many other people have said it is viable. Abs removal or not ???? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ab...&hl=removal

I have oil leaking from the top of my gearbox. 2LV8ETR where is the breather located - is it on the passenger side or the drivers side (I am guessing it is on the passenger's side). If oil is coming from here is there a way to fix it? When you talk about "the gearbox insulator and look at the area around the shifter dust boot" are you talking about looking around the shifter from inside the cabin? Thanks, Ben.

I am still looking. Thanks.

Hi, my 2003 V35 GT8 Bose 6 stacker CD player is broken and displaying the F0 error. I am using the RCA ins in the TV module to play music from my iPod. When I start my car the CD player tries to eject each of the six CDs in the CD player - so I get a ticking type noise for say 10 seconds every time I turn the car on; then an beep as if to tell me it didn't work. Is there a way that does not involve me removing the unit from the car to make the CD player forget about trying to load CDs? Thanks, Ben.

I am back on this topic. I now have braided brake lines all round, RBA slotted rears with Bendix standrad pads, machined Nissan 296mm rotors rotors up front with QFM 550 pads and a Cusco master cylinder stopper. All-in-all I am happy with the braking performance of the car - it brakes well! Given that I think that the braking is good I am now focussing on feel - my braking 'feels' crap. I think this is becase I need very little pressure on my brake pedal to start braking which does not firm up most fo the way through the pedal. I am thinking that I need to harden the peday up. There are two ways I have thought of to do this. 1. Change the spring in the pedal increasing the resistence against me pushing down or 2. remove my brake master which is a harder job and requires me to get some extra bits but will also save me space and weight. Has anyone considered these before?

I put the new bushes into the gearbox cross member and the probelm is fixed! I did notice that two (of the four) holes where not letting the bolts tighten right up so I assume that I have the same problem that you had GTRsean. I see that you used helicoils to repair the holes. I've never used these before and have found that there aren't any threads which really deal with the process - are you able to explain how it works?

Got one for $80. Thanks.

I got Nissan bushes. The part number is 11248-85E01. These cost $20.48 plus GST each. Do you know if the tapered end faces down towards the ground or upward? Thanks.

I got Nissan bushes. The part number is 11248-85E01. These cost $20.48 plus GST each. Do you know if the tapered end faces down towards the ground or upward? Thanks.

Did you have to get new bushes - did you get Nissan or another brand - where?

Hi there - I am missing the busghes used between the gearbox subframe and the chassis as shown in teh attached picture. Nissan have the OEM units and I see that Fulcrum suspension make polyurethane ones. Fulcrum are out of stock and I was hoping to go to something more racey - does anyone else make them? If not I will get OEM ones. Thanks, Ben.

Where are you?

Thanks salival; I really thought you had it - but I got under there tonight and the starter motor looks fine. I did notice that the front sub-frame mounts were a little loose - I tightened them right up by it didn't help. I did notice tonight that the bushes on the top of the gearbox mount bracket are missing - I am sure that it is a contributer - though I will need to see if it fixes the problem or if it was just another thing to get on top of - thanks for the thought though!

Here is a picture of the part that I am after

Thanks Birds; I am not getting any vibration at all and the gears etc. are changing well (in fact my car feels better than it has in years except for this clunk!) When I turn the car on I get a clunk sound from down near my left foot When I drive the car and it begins to move forward I get a heavier clunk When moving, if I accelerate heavily I get a clunk When moving quickly, if I brake heavily I get a clunk. The clunk doesn't seem related to braking, rather, a shift in the weight in the car When stationary, if I push down on the guards there is no sound When stationary, if I push the car backward and forward I get no sound There is no sound when I rev the engine in neutral Under the car everything seems tight - no bushes etc. seem torn or missing (though several are old / worn) Under the car nothing seems to be fouling, i.e. there are no rub marks The engine mounts are standard Nissan items. I installed the, they are in flush and all of the bolts are done up tightly

RB Ryan - I haven't considered a manual setup; how many times heavier would you guess the steering is now? Do you track the car at all? What rack did you use? Thanks, Ben.

Thanks, I can't help but be interested; is one of them shorter than the other? What is the small difference? Thanks, Ben.