Birth

That's a shame because it looks good from the pics and they don't come up too often. I am in NSW and was not seriously considering buying it; but it is very exciting when DR30s come up for sale; then again I get exciting when N12 Exa's come up for so go figure...

I think this one in Adelaide for $5,500 is cheap. DR30 in Adelaide

Got one. Thanks.

To be clear, the non-abs has three ports; the abs model has two ports.

Hi have one in Marrickville in Sydney for $200. It is still on the car - you can try it out if you like (assuming you are in Sydney). If you really like you can take it off the car! Thanks, Ben.

Mate, the car in the pictures does not have a GTR bodykit.

These are the wires that I have hanging out which I assume are for the neutral and reverse switches. Can anyone confirm that these should be them. Not that this picture is of the driver's side of the engine under the plenum, you can see the alsternator in the back.

Hi there, I hope someone can help. The part of the loom that connects to the reverse and neutral switches on my R32 GTS4 has been ripped out (one of those things). I can't see where these are meant to connect to; the best I can see is a bit of the loom that passes by the alternator but I can't be sure that this is it as these wires don't seem to activate my reverse lights. Any help would be great - I have a thread going about this here. Thanks, Ben

Hi there, I hope someone can help. The part of the loom that connects to the reverse and neutral switches on my R32 GTS4 has been ripped out (one of those things). I can't see where these are meant to connect to; the best I can see is a bit of the loom that passes by the alternator but I can't be sure that this is it as these wires don't seem to activate my reverse lights. Any help would be great - I have a thread going about this here. Thank, Ben

Hi there, I hope someone can help. The part of the loom that connects to the reverse and neutral switches on my R32 GTS4 has been ripped out (one of those things). I can't see where these are meant to connect to; the best I can see is a bit of the loom that passes by the alternator but I can't be sure that this is it as these wires don't seem to activate my reverse lights. Any help would be great - I have a thread going about this here. Thanks, Ben

I am guessing that it is leaking from where the large hose from the resevouir joins the pump; alternatively, if the mechanic had it off I am guessing that one of the washers for the hose at the top of the pump are missing (there shoud be four, one on the top and one on the bottom of each banjo fitting).

I think the issue is related the neutral switch on my gearbox and the fact that it is not working. I think that the neutral switch is the trigger for the ECU dropping to 15 degrees for idling. My car idles at 35 degrees. I assume that when I get the switch working again that it will drop to 15 degrees and the timing light will get a more reasonable response.

Guvna1; where is the leak from?

There is a section in the Conzult software called "Base Idle Adjustment". When I used this it seemed that my timing was retarded to about 50 degrees after Top dead centre which I don't believe is right. I had the car warmed up and idling at about 650 rpm (as this is what the workshop manual suggested). Does anyone know if Conzult is locking the timing at 15 degrees? Should the car be idling at 650 rpm? With the consult connected and not in "Base Idle Adjustment" I see that the car thinks that it is idling at 35 degrees (at about 800 rpm). Would it be easier to make sure that the car is at 35 degrees at this point? I assume that if the car thinks it is at 35 degrees and the timing light is showing 35 degrees everything should be ok - any thoughts?

I took another look at this today. I noticed that there are two relays. I unplugged the relay on the passenger side of the car as this seemed to be the one doing the clicking. My fuel pump seems to be running ok and the goes was going normally though my 4WD has stopped working. I assume that one of the relays controls the fuel pump and the other one is something to do with the ATTESSA; what do you think this woudl be for?

Pictures are also super helpful.

BH SLO32; do you know what this relay does? Is it switching the fuel pump on and off or is it controlling high rpm vs. low rpm for on throttle vs. off throttle?

Thanks. Also, if its possible while you are down there; can you please tell me what colour wires on the car side of the connectors are plugging into the a. neutral switch and b. revese switch (or a. the switch on the rear side of the car and b. switch on the front side of the car)? It woudl be a massive help as I have nothing at all there!

Hi Zardo, I have attached a picture from the R32GTR workshop manual with the reverse switch circled. I am guessing that they have forgotten to plug yours in properly when they put the gearbox back. I can't tell you exactly where the wires are going because that is my question. I think my wires got caught up on my front driveshaft and got pulled out. I have the switches, but don't know where they are going. If you get under your car to check that your switches are plugged in, maybe you could take a look at where the wires are going and what colour wires plug into your reverse switch? This picture is pretty self explanitory after you have taken a look under your car. Essentially the neutral and reverse switches are located near the top of the driver's side of your gear box. If you get under the car and locate the front drive shift coming from the gearbox you will notice that these are just above there - quite difficult to get your hands to!

Bump

Hello there, I have a problem. The wires that connect to the neutral and reverse switch in the gearbox of my R32GTS4 (same and an R32GTR) are missing. This means that my reverse lights don't come on when I am reversing which is an issue fo rego. I can't really see where the wires are meant to go; though I am guessing that they join the engine loom somewhere around the alternator. I need help can anyone a. confirm where these wires connect to the loom b. confirm which wires in the loom connect to which wires on the switches Thanks, Ben 0411 243 284.

"no pics....if you dont know what a pair off r32 gtr gaurds look like then your in trouble" - the requirement for pics is not to see what shape they are rather to test your definition of great condition.

Hi mad082; how do you lock the timing at 15 degrees using a Consult cable? I have a consult cable and have downloaded the various applications around namely EcuTalk, OBD ScanTech Nissan, Calumsult and Conzult Free (all listed on the EcuTalk website). I understand that I should be able to set the revs at idle using Cunzult Free (I understand that 650 rpm equals 15 degrees), though I haven't been able to figure out how this works.

There's also the electric thermo fan; so yeah I guess it would come up to 20'ish. I had the same idea - to put it back in later; but the compressors sell for $100 upward so I have now sold my bits and will deal with rebuying them if I want to put them back in - also the amount of space that is freed up is excellent - it makes moving around the engine bay heaps easier!

I think that the gas is a carcenogen (causes cancer). Anyhow, I just removed my air conditionining from my R32 GTS4. It is ver easy to remove and it looks pretty easy to get back in. You may bend the alloy hoses running to and from the compressor but in reality it should be fairly easy to get back in. I weighed my compressor and pulley when I got it out - it weighed 12kg. The rest of the stuff is very light; I'd say a saving of 16ish kg overall (though I didn't remove anything under the dash).