4core

Oh f**k me.... That's f**ked man... Sorry for your loss.

Hey Ryan, as posted on the rising Sunday FB page I saw this yesterday arvo at Edinburgh shops in Forrestfield about 1pm. Keeping eyes peeled for you mate.

HSD HR 1600 or there abouts and p1ss easy to install. been in my 32 sedan for a while now and i love them. Be prepared to replace bushes and such after a while as stiffer suspension puts more stress on other components.

That is some awesome feedback and a few good options there. Thanks heaps for the replies! Im not concerned about toe adjustment too much as thats something i can add in later if needed, at the moment its just a street car. I think i'll swap it out for a non hicas in the very near future. Thanks again guys!

Does anyone know of a nissan subframe that will bolt into the R32 rear end that is NON HICAS. I've recently had the LH rear HICAS rod end start to get a lil wobbly and i dont really want to replace it with another if it is going to do the same thing. I want to completely remove the HICAS subframe and replace the soddding thing. Any suggestions?

If your rolling in neutral with the noise happening then i doubt it has anything to do with the drive train. A few things to check are; 1) Toe alignment on the rear wheels 2) Wheel bearings 3) Have you been "practising" hand brake turns or had to lock up the tyres? Flat spots in the tyres can cause this unwanted vibration and noise. I would think that the solid gearbox mount would on help transmit the vibration issue further through the car as it is solid, but if your saying that you get the vibration even when coasting in neutral, i'd start from the ground and work backwards. Hope this helps.

R32 two and four door exhausts ARE compatible. The only thing that will have to change is the placement of the hangers for the muffler. I currently have an x-force stainless system on my 4 door with that only mod. All other hangers line up fine. The whole system sits rather neatly to.

My missus hates the coilovers being too stiff. She is "well endowed" and the bumps "Hurt" as she says.... I lik-a to watch-a tha jiggly Also, its too noisy, the gear knob heats up in the sun and i have to use a old sock, it smells, the drivers seat has a squeak, its pops out the exhaust nearly every gear change when on a hot day, the air con is too cold, she hates that it steps out in the wet too easy, and that i spend a lot of money on it. Other than that IM ON A WINNER :S

Its not getting crazy, its getting Petty. Borderline victimisation...

Just thought i'd give people the heads up as i spotted this on ebay. Pretty dam cheap as far as im concerned! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/nissan-skyline-gtr-...%3A1%7C294%3A50 and no im not the seller.

That was truly a fantasic hommage to the 32 GTR's prowess on the circut. Great find mate!

Pimp-tastic! Congrats on the purchase!

Hey Guys / Gals, Just wanted to say good on you all for the massive presense of import cars in Adelaide!!!! Im here on a business trip from perth, and Adelaide takes the cake for import central!!! In two days ive seen many R33 2 and 4 doors, R34 2 and 4 doors (one four door with SOOO MII as the plates) Evo's WRX's MR2's everything! Keep up the imports!! Its always comforting to see the familiar sights of round taillights!

I got an un-due excessive noise fine, becuase i took off fast, and the cop thought i was "chirping" my wheels when it was the flutter... Tried to explain, but oh well. Got very very lucky i believe..... Berny is right, they can sticker you for absolutly anything they want. The leather on your steering wheel peeling off, if your ash tray is full... anything at all. Best thing to do is "yes officer... no officer, i understand officer, thank you" As much as it sucks, being truthful, calm and in some cases, forcing yourself to agree with them can only help... Good lcuk mate. Yellows lick testicles... not in the good way....

Good luck with it all. Be prepared to have a few bolts snap, or gasket replacement, or, and this is my personal favourite, "you have snapped manifold bolts, 4 to be precise".... or generally some form of pain in the ass. 32's are known for the "EXTRA WORK NEEDED" line from your mechanic.... *looks at my wallet* Still there is nothing quite like it when all of a sudden at 3500 rpm it pushes you back into the seat. ENJOY!

Fitting the std 33 turbo will be cheaper, high flowing your 20 turbo will cost lots, i called turbo tech a while back when i screwed my turbo and they wanted a kidney.... at least.... As far as performance, most people get at least 250 hp at the rears on a std 33 turbo as long as you have some for of fuel controlling device ie SAFC or something... as for high flowed 20 you would probably have to dig about for the results. Reliability, the 33 turbo is still standard and can (im not saying they all do) shart a rear turbine wheel off... The high flow would be steel wheels and capable of longer life and higher boost. std 33 turbos dont really like 15 pounds of boobs. I do. Ive personally gone from a std 20 turbo, to a std 33 turbo and now a high flowed 33 turbo, the high flow 33 turbo is un-goddam-believeable, the power up the top end is awesome, but at the same time ,smooth. At a guess i'd say the high flowed 20 would be better for midrange? Hope this helps.

This is a advertising campaign on speeding. Well worth the watch. GRAPHIC CONTENT!!! http://bilgalleri.dk/html/vid_vis.asp?VideoID=22034

i had this problem with my car, it turned out to be the intercooler pipe one of the vacuum lines came off the fuel pressure reg and for some reason (im not gonna pretend i know what im talking about here) it backfired and pretty much just died in the arse, it would idle but wouldnt accelerate, check your cooler piping, find the loose hose and reconnect it ps. this was a right pain in the arse to diagnose and fix at 2am on scarb beach rd in the rain *shakes fist in a menacing fashion*

its only on cold start that it does it. not warm start.

If it was the starter motor it would be a consistent knock yes? no? Mine will knock anywhere between 9, up to the highest ive seen 135. If it was the starter it would do it all the time right?, once warm the knocking on startup is gone.... the guy tuning my car said he can feel the knock (big lean out at 6500rpm but fuel pressure is perfect) but the SAFC 2 is not picking it up correctly. when i told him about the split second knocking on start up, he said rooted sensors.

i made a block plat for the stock bov out of tin, and put the stock bov back on top of it..... took me 5 minutes all up?

I have shagged knock sensors, they cause a split second of knocking on startup then read zero on idle, recently had the car tuned and they were causing timing issues, and fighting the SAFC and major loss of power.... Has anyone replaced their knock sensors? Where are they located? What the hell do they look like......

Sorry to dig up an old thread... Mine does this even with a new AFM has anyone got a solution?

Covs sent SR20 N/A rotors............ Oh my dear not cool.....

will a 25 rail fit my 20?