screamin'

There are ITB setups for straight sixes, quite pricey when I looked into it from here in NZ. You will still have to make an adaptor plate from the ITB's to the RB head. The only off the shelf setups I have seen are for Honda's as most people just bolt on a turbo to the RB's. I went the custom way with 4age throttles because it was the only way I could afford to do it at the time. Seem to be working out quite nicely now a couple of years later.

Very interesting. What's the reason behind runing a 2ltr, class capacity limits? Yes mine are off the 20 valve Toyota motor. I'm thinking they are slightly too big for the N/A 2ltr as we seem to be struggling for air speed. But in saying that the car has plenty of poke for the moment, just think there is room for imporvement. The GTR ITB's would be far too much for me, would have been a bit easier to build if I could have gone that way.

Cool! Great to hear you guys are mucking around with the ITB's too, turbo or N/A? Cranked a few more degree's timing into my N/A RB20 and stuck it on avgas a month ago, certainly livened it up some more. What throttles are you running? ( I may have missed the bit where you've spoken about your setup?) Another vid, just for kicks: 2nd gear take off btw.

I'm running ITB's on an RB20DE in my rallycar. Still a 2ltr for class requirements. I don't have the exact spec of the cam's on hand, but they are 280° duration and max lift we could run with the standard lifters/followers. The head has also had a lot of porting done, although I feel we may have gone a little too far on the port size and cams. It pulls strong for a 2ltr, but is very fussy on intake length adjustment and doesn't have the torque I'm looking for yet. Cams are a custom grind made by Kelford Cams, as no one really has any spec's on ITB N/A RB motors. I would say the 2.5ltr will be easier to strike the right tune with the cams thanks to the extra capacity. To me it sounds like you are after peak hp and rpm? I'm after the opposite, however the 'lil bugger does like to rev to 8,500rpm all day long on the stock bottom end. Oh and the sound!! Vids' FYI -motor is too flat below 4,000rpm

I'm wanting to change the gear ratio's in the rallycar and have been looking at my options. The car runs an RB20DE with a DET gearbox which is getting a bit tired again. I'm looking into geting new 1st, 2nd & 3rd ratios made up for it at a cost of over $2k NZ. The standard box ratios are crap for the revvy motor and 1st is too low with the 4.9 diff ratio. The other day on our glorious TradeMe I came across a 350z gearbox for under a grand. 6 speed with excellent 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th ratios. Now I have hear that a few of the drift guys out here are running them as they are a strong box. What I want to know is, has anybody got any experience with this conversion behind an RB? Any info appriciated. We will be making a new gearbox mount, gear lever etc. I need to know about block vs. bellhousing, clutch, splines etc.

Also no radiator hose if you look closely. Later version of the engine here:

Carbs, you mean carbs. Hakosuka's have 3 side draft carburetors. My pick Hakosuka number one, and my own ITB R32 second!

A 2ltr N/A 6 will never compare to a six cylinder twice it's capacity. Don't forget the RB is quite old technology noe too. Ltr for ltr I can vouch for ITB's working on an RB20, this year I won my class (1600cc- 2000cc) for the second year in a row. I went ITB's because they are cheaper than three Webbers, although I'd probably get more power from the carb's, nothing worng with them if you know how to tune them.

Looks like it should be a good project. Great to see others playing around with N/A's. I'm just in the process of fitting a pedalbox to mine, as the brake cylinder/booster and clutch cylinder are in the way of the new intakes I need to run. You probably already know that you need to acheive a certain length intake runner, but bear in mind this is hampered by width of the engine bay, just stick it in something other than an R32!

Nice. What's the butterfly size on the GTR ITB's? I'm running 6 4AGE ITB's on my R32, seem to work alright with the cam and head work. Sound awsome too.

Yeah I've heard of Mark. I'm quite lucky really, my Dad builds race motors, from rotary's to chevs and now an RB, been doing it for about 30 - 40 years now. Variable length intakes would be ideal, but I'm not going down that track. 100% perfect tune at every throttle percentage isn't required on a loose surface like gravel, plus it's just another thing to go wrong. Part of what we are doing with the new trumpet design will effectively create boost, but I'm not plumbing in an intercooler just yet! Right on the money there Lithium.

Hey Geoff, I was halfway to Welly yesterday racing in forestry north of Taupo. Looks like I was 2nd 2WD so I'm happy with that. The car is running a G4 Link, planed and ported head, cams with adjustable gears. The motor is going pretty strong at the moment, but there is more in it yet. We're doing away with the brake booster soon so I can run bigger trumpets so we can dial in more duration on the cams and get rid of the reverberation out the intake. I run it on 98 cause it's easy to get from any BP and stick to that. We've changed the exhaust a few times and the current system seems to be the goods. The G4 is tuned just off the tps at the mo, because we can't get enough vacuum off the itb's with the cam overlap. It's something different and turns heads wherever I race it. Surprises a few the fact that we've got it working so good on the gravel.

Toyota does some good factory aftrmarket parts for RB's. 4AGE ITB's.

Yeah, it makes a different noise aye. Nice change from Evo's and anti-lag crackling through the forest.

I've been running an R32 rallycar for about three years now over here in NZ. Built it up from a road car. The car started of just as a taily tank slapper on gravel, but over time we've developed the suspension and got it handling. It's such an unorthidox car with pretty much 70:30 weight split, apparently totally wrong for rallying, but we've proved them wrong with some good results, class wins and a 1st 2wd overall in sprints. The car is built to our cc capacity rules, so it is still a 2ltr N/A with head work and ITB's. A Silvia/180 etc would be a better car to start with, better weight ballance and the SR20 is a good donk to get N/A grunt out of. I just wanted to do it different and run a 6.

Does this count? Circuit: Old Kaimai Road (NZ) Car: R32 Skyline GTS ITB Driver: Me Navigator: (ballast) Geoff Lap time: 2:06.25. Camera: GoPro Motorsports HERO

Well the car that started this thread has developed a bit over the last couple of years. Now sports an RB20DE with ITB's, cams, headwork etc. Think there is a pic in here somewhere... It's had a couple of arguements with a total of 8 fence posts (7 at one time) which of course leads to upgrades. With suspension mods, and a bit of tuning the car has become surprisingly competative, scoring a few 1st in class (1600 - 2000cc) and a 1st 2wd in a 3.5km hillclimb. I'm stoaked to be running an unorthadox car and beating some of the pure bread 2wd rallycars. Here's a pic and vids from the other weekend. 10km forestry sprint. Day started at -5°C, parts of the road were permanantly frozen all day, tricky... More pics here: http://www.colourandlight.co.nz/galleries/...ne09/index.html Vids: Incar: Driveby:

Been running it for a while now. Car is going real good, had a couple of 1st in class (1600-2000cc) and a 1st two wheel drive on one hill climb. Good to be beating the Escorts and Tereno's. Got a couple of short vid's of last weekends rallysprint. Day started off at -5°C and didn't get much warmer! Some photo's. Check out the frozen road! http://www.colourandlight.co.nz/galleries/...ne09/index.html

You win. I want those on my LS1 too!

The pipe I described is from the filter to the throttle body. I just cut a hole in the panel under the filter, the shape of the inner guard pressurizes the air infront of the wheel arch and forces it up the cutout and into the filter. It means no bugs and dirt get forced into the filter, they get splatered on the inner guard. I used to run a duct up to the filter, but got sick of the filter getting dirty all the time. The cutout worked just as good as the duct in my experiance.

It's exhaust tubing. If you use mild steel, paint the inside to stop it rusting from condensation. I used to spray mine with CRC/WD40 inside, seemed to work. Or, if you are money bags, get some 3in stainless exhaust tube.

The metal pipe make the intake noise resonate. Sounds awsome. Plus, it has less turns in it than the factory plastic one. Seems to floe good, as the car has always gone very hard for a 2ltr. The new owner seemed very impressed when he first gave it a tickle.

No drive by vids, got an in-car tho. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjUEPfi_NjU Hang on, found one Flick through to 1:00. I wasn't up it, as it was the first run and grip was a problem!

I wanted cold air and couldn't be bothered making a cold air box... so I put my intakes on the other side of the engine bay. I used to run this setup on another Skyline I owned. At the bottom of the airbox is a hole that allowed air to enter from the bumper duct lik NSMO33's. I highly recomend the metal intake pipe and this Unifilter, they sound awsome. (scares animals and small children )

They already have out here! NZ$500 for an lsd one. Only some Serena's come out with them, but I imagine a locked 4.9 would make a GTS-t at the drags surprise a few people.