screamin'

26 intake with the 4age throttles? Could work. Mate of mine works in the CNC machining industry, so I've just given him another homer to do. We're going to dummy up some runners next week and see what we can make fit.

2.5ltr's indicate the redline at 6,500 I believe and 2.0ltr have it at 7,000. Solid red on the tacho starts 500rpm past that. As for rev limiters, the last 2.5 I drove cut at about 6,800, definatly below 7k. Both my RB20DE's have no limit at all, rallycar will see 9,000rpm if I'm not careful. Lot's of variance discussed here. Raises the question, how accurate do you think the factory tacho is?

Yip, Toyota has the same on their itb's. I'll be running a vac line from each one for the MAP. For the brake vacuum boost I'm going to fit a diesel Navara alternator. They run a small compressor off the back of them for the brake booster.

Cool. Sounds like the LT12s comes with the MAP sensor going by what the supplier tells me, which will save me a few dollars. He's quoted NZ$1,650. Way cheaper that what I've been looking at previously. That's why I'm a little bit sceptical.

ECU time... What are your guys thoughts and experiances with Microtech LT12s ECU's? A performance shop has recomended this to me and the price seems very fair, as long as it does what I want it to. I need to read a Toyota TPS, aftermarket MAP sensor and do all the fuel and spark as per stanadard RB20. http://www.microtechefi.com/microtech-prod...hp?product_id=5

Haha, no plenum, and no turbo for this project.

Cheers for the comments guys. I want to have it going for next season, so that's Novemberish. Hopefully it sounds good, only 2ltrs though so hopefully I don't have to rev the rse off it to get the benifit out of the itb's. SR20's sound like rse, I thought the world of rallying could do with the sweet RB sound (SR would be better for weight distribution) Nosmo, what ecu and sensors are you running? I'm not sure of the compression, it's on a bit of paper somewhere. Kelfords were instructed to set the head up for the highest possible compression I can run on 98 octane. MSNZ is outlawing Avgas at the mo.

Another reason why we have it all over the turbo boys in the corners is because we don't have to wash off as much speed for the corner. You wack another 20km/h onto your end of straight speed and taking the same turn at the speed you usually do gets harder. Both Rach and I enter the turns hard and get on the gas early (rach earlier than me 'cause she's got grip!) to try and make up the difference to the turbo's. One thing for sure, racing an N/A makes you work the corners harder and I beleive makes you drive better. You don't get lazy and just wait for the T04E to kick in.

My N/A handling setup isn't too ideal for the track. Keeps doing this... Hence why I haven't been back for a while. Plus it wears my semi's too fast. Wait till I get the head and itb's on Rach, then I'll be able to keep up with you again! Handling issues......replace with more hp, heh heh.

Crazy Aussie laws (if that is a law) Don't dis the mighty RB20DE tho, give them a tune and tweek and they go aiight.

If you're thinking AE86 then you can definatly afford my 32! I'll consider offers, but the thing is I can store it, so there is no panic in selling it. Is your 34 a 2ltr?

Dunno, but I bet ya they are different Chang. They would of re-designed the exhuast ports os something silly and put a different flange on it. What are you up to anyway? Got another R32?

Dunno Rach, just kinda doing it on the side. At the moment I'm waiting for some alloy tube to turn up for the runners, then it's a matter of getting it all tigged up. Think I'm going to run a Link G3 with a tps and map. You think thats hot, wait till I've got the trumpets on it, mmmmm. Cost so far... NZ$300 for itb's and NZ$2,900 for the head and cam work (mates rates!) My mate is doing the CNC machining, so I'll see if I can buy him out with beer.

Ahh, but I am familiar with IIIRII. Good example of comitment there! My Skyline has now had the performance mods of Nissan stripes added. New head/induction build is still progressing slowly: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ld-t222993.html

Billet alluminium flange made to mount the itb's:

Awsome thread, good to follow another R32 build. Just one thing, I don't like the position of this. Skyline rear guards are really suseptable to this, excuse the bog it's not the first dent for this guard! And personally I wouldn't want my fuel surge tank stuck in there.

Best sounding exhaust on an RB20DE with extractors IMO. 3xcoby's, or hotdogs as you call them Pipe is standard bore size. Photo was taken when I was replacing the rear coby after it blew out the insulation. -Oh, and say no to stainless!

I drive on tarmac much the same as I do on gravel. A lot of fast entry sliding and late braking. Carrying max speed through the turns anyway possible to try and make up for my huge lack of power! Plus, the car is actually setup for gravel so to get the best time out of it on the black stuff you have to be a bit aggressive and slidey. In a car with good grip I agree with slow is smooth.. smooth is fast tho.

^^^ Legend! Hope he landed it.

Got the head back last week. It better go as good as it looks. It's had 13hrs worth of porting done, valve seating, head plained, new heavy duty valve springs and cam followers. The cams are new 280° to match the intakes. We just have to setup the cams in the head and it's ready to go on for the test fitting of the itb's. Hopefully the fabrication of these will be done in the next week or two. The ports have had a lot of work done on them to change the size and entry angle of the port to the valves, should make a good difference there. This week I have to sus out an ECU to run the thing.

I'm gonna have to find out if the first set will work first! For your application all dimensions and cam timing/duration will be different because of the bigger motor. If I'm going to do a second set it'll be for my GenIII SS Anthony- As far as injectors go, I'm going to start with the stock ones, but if I have to upgrade to GTS-t or 13B ones I can just slip them in I beleive. GTR-32U- I don't know what 4age the itb's are off, but they are 42mm butterfly diameter. Comp. will be the highest I can run pump gas on, as Av-gas is being outlawed by Motorsport NZ. GTS Retro- For a track application and 2.5ltr the short runners would be fine, but for the 2ltr I need instant throttle responce and reasonable torque, hence the length.

Would be good to do this on a larger capacity motor, but I need to stick to below 2000cc. The runner length was calculated by the specialist at the cam/head shop. He has ground a cam and ported the head specifically for the diameter itb's I have and through this calculated the runner length required. Generally the length is way longer than what I have seen discussed on here and it's measured from the seat of the valve to the edge of the bell on the trumpet. The calculation includes volumes, diameter, length, air speed, air flow. Seems to be quite involved.

I bought my first N/A Skyline 8 years ago. Two reasons really, I was 17 and I wanted a Skyline in good condition. I could of brought a GTS-t for the same money, but I also like my cars to look good as well as go good. A number of times over the years I've had the oportunity to buy a turbo, even an R, but I never have. The reason? I do a lot of k's, so reliability is important and NZ's open road speed limit is only 100km/h, plus, now you loose your car and licence @ 140km/h; and don't get me started on petrol prices! My car sounds great, (of course I'm biased) think BMW M3 CSL induction and that great Skyline exhaust note. I can drive it all day just listening to it. Now, this thread is about power output. The most I have managed from this little RB20DE is 120rwkw. These days I don't see any point in pursuing the power thing any further as there is no point as far as I can see. There are no rules (in NZ at least) about what you can do to a motor to increase power output. So if I wanted to make my car more powerful I'd just throw a turboed RB30 at it. Easy. What's really taken my interest now is to do with my rallying. All classes have capacity limits and are structured like this: A 0-1300, B 1300-1600, C 1600-2000, D 2000-3500, E 4WD & Turbo. So you can see, the aim of the game is to make the smallest capacity engine product the best power without turboing it. There is no point in throwing a turbo onto my rallycar because I could never beat a WRX on the gravel, unless the WRX driver is a complete pillock. So, my new game is how much power can I make an N/A RB20DE produce. I have set rules to abide by and a starting point of 97rwkw to improve on. It's not going to be the cheapest way to make hp, but it is being done on a budget. So we'll wait and see what happens...

lol, yeah, they smelly old Toyota itb's, $300 for two sets The bottom end is stock on the current motor, done 210,000km and is untouched. It was well thrashed before I got it and has a lightened flywheel, so I'm guessing thats why it's happy to rev hard. When I do get around to building up the other block I have, I'll do a bit of balancing work, just to make sure it'll last.

No problem with rev's as it is. With basic breathing mods the lil thing revs to 9,000rpm on occasion. By matching intake runner length, cams and head work I'm looking for a strong usable midrange and good throttle response. But yeah, looks like it'll be happy to rev it's nuts off still.