screamin'

It's been while coming, but I have started work on the engine build for my rallycar. The car is an R32 GTS Coupe. I run an RB20DE in stack form with some basic breathing mods. Now the time has come to start building the head I want to use to extract power from the 2ltr block. Due to the car having to fit into a class based on engine capacity, I want to keep the motor below 2000cc and non-turbo. On the weekend we stripped the head and prepared it for porting and cam work. Also, the bottom section of the factory intake plenuim was cut from the rest to be used in the build. The idea of this was to allow us to us the factory injector position and to match the intake runners to the new ports. These are the throttle bodies I'm planning on using. They are off a 20 valve 4age and I have modded the linkage to allow me to run 6 in-line. These will be mounted to a common flange and bolted to the fabricated intake runners.

You run a big end... I don't see the point of running a catch can unless you have a lot of blow by. Neither of my Skylines run one and all i get is a slight smear of oil fumes in the intake. Skylines run a closed curcuit breather system where they don't vent to atmosphere. Old school N/A's used to vent to atmosphere and when revved hard (or cornered hard) they would throw oil out the breathers, thus the need for a catch can. I race my R32 rallycar pretty much every weekend and rev the crap out of it, not unusual to see over 8,500rpm on the clock, and it burns/looses no oil and has minimal blow by. What good is a catch can going to do for me??? I think with turbo applications it is a little different, as they seem to have a certain amount of blow bydue to boost. My 2c.

Cool Rach, glad to see it worked out for you's. Now I bet you are thinking of an RB25DE+t!

I'm working on an ITB setup for my rallycar. It's going to be built on a 2ltr bottom end because the classes run by engine capacity and in my class 2000cc is the max. We're just working with our cam guy to establish what the optimum angle for the TB's is and the angle that the air/fuel mixture meets the head/valve. Air speed and direction are key to this system working, so we're doing our homework on intake runner length and the flow of the system. I'm just finishing off rebushing the rear subframe, then I'll be into the head/intake. I'll keep you posted with the progress.

I'm building some myself. Just stripping down the head. I'll be a rebuild on that, a bit of port work, then fabrication of the ITB setup. Was meant to have all this done by now, but I keep putting dents in the rear guard of the damn thing!

What are you on about?!!! The induction on an N/A Skyline can make a heap of noise. The induction on mine fair screams and drowns out Hoondah's as you pass them. My exhaust is aftermarket too... It'll make more noise if you crank the timing up, your 2.5 can make more power than that, my 2.0 does. On the filter/induction thing, do a search, there are heaps of threads around here on it.

It's really cheap when compared to building a car for track work. The biggest money saving factor is that hp doesn't always help you go faster on the loose stuff. My car is just a stock engined GTS. Currently building a new motor but. I stripped the car myself, got all the panel work fixed (the car was pretty rough) put in a cage, race seats, harnesses, removed the HICAS etc and was on the startline of my first event for $4,500NZ including buying the car for $1,000. Ongoing costs are not bad, as long as you don't keep crashing! I've been rallying the car for 12 months and now I'm starting on some development work with suspension, engine etc, so I'll be spending some coin now. At Clubsport level you don't need the best of everything, I run against some pretty trick Escorts and one big $$$ R30 - was only 0.5 seconds of him the other weekend! If you want to see the build and more rally pics go here: (that's if the website server doesn't crash!) screamin' rally

Ohh, accident damage! How many of you guys out there have some pics to share? Here's my first attempt at crashing a car las year. Don't know if you've seen it already. Bent the rear suspension arm and buckled two wheels, smashed back window, dented the fuel tank, smashed headlight etc. Got it fixed in two weeks and didn't miss an event! My latest attempt from the other week, just clipped a bank on my way to 2nd in class and my fastest run of the day.

rubbish! completely rubbish!! I agree with Eug on the turbo guys commenting on N/A stuff, classic! As been mentioned, a K&N filter will be better than a stock paper element, but the biggest killer on an N/A is hot air, so leaving the factory snorkel will be a good idea, until you go all out and get the custom system built. One thing I don't agree with is the above comment. The biggest single gain I got from any mod I've done to my RB20DE is they dyno tune after I had carried out my exhaust and induction mods. It is the only time I have felt a noticable increase in power through the seat of my pants, better throttle response and far better torque through the rev range. Do the K&N filter now and then when you are able, get the custom induction and exhaust made and keep some coin aside to get it tuned properly, be it on the factory ECU or the chip. That's when all the mods will come together and make the power they should.

My cold air box is made of sheet metal and resonates the induction sound making it louder. Also, the steel induction pipe to the throttle body made it louder once installed.

N/A Mike, we need to talk. I'm building something on a 2ltr you might be interested in...

If it don't got blow by, stock motor don't need catch can I say! The new motor in the rally car will have one, just because you wont be able to plumb the breathers into the new intake system we're building.

Mine: roadcar rallycar (temperary) The rallycar will have something qiuite different, soon I hope

Nice work. I went down this track with my R32 about 6 years ago, saw that a GTS-t had holes there for the intercooler piping and thought, that'll work! I did the same thing with the 90° bend facing foward down in the bumper duct, but because it rains so damn much in NZ my air box got quite damp and the mesh over the pipe was always full of bugs. So version two was developed. If you still have a plastic inner guard you can do this: I cut the hole bigger, into more of a rectangle shape. Because the intercooler cavity in the bumper is a high pressure area (when you don't have holes into your wheel arch) the air will naturally go out any gap, the biggest and easiest of which being the one below my filter in the air box. All the bugs fly straight into the inner guard infront of the wheel and the cleaner/drier air into my airbox. Far simpler and less plastic bits to fall off!

Nice use of the 4WD!! They don't pull out of the turns quite the same without it! Awsome build BTW.

Heh heh, just sticking it up the hardtrack guys!!!

Fine... since we're doing sideways shots -my fav... 97rwkw POWA!

It is a lot of fun. I keep the roadcar way too mint to drive on gravel roads or compete @ 100% so I had to get another one for that purpose. As far as gravel rallycars go it's in really quite mint condition! And yip, most weekends there is a sprint or hilclimb on. When they aren't on there is alway trackdays (like yesterday )

Yeah the tape on the headlights means when you do tap something the glass doesn't fall out onto the track. Also saves your lights from being broken by random stones. baron - yup, it's primarily a gravel rallycar. Still need to do a bit more work to make it hook up on the loose stuff, but it is a hell of a lot of fun!

Yip, they don't make us run cats in NZ yet. Both cars have the same mods, extractors/exhaust/custom induction system now, only thing is one produces 23 more rwkw!

TURBO being the operative word there...

What engine? RB20E or RB25DE? Either way I would say a maximum of 2.5" and mild steel pipe/mufflers, not stainless. Stainless systems can sound real bad on an N/A. I run a 2" on one of my RB20DE's with three straight through glass packed resonators. My rallycar (RB20DE) runs the same, but 2.5". The car with the 2" pipe goes way harder than the rallycar, so a small diameter pipe doesn't hurt performace on a lil' N/A. IMO the 2" pipe sounds better too.

The red car sounds here: http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/jswright/screamin.html Lil rallycar vid here from a motorkhana last year.

Was on semi-slicks, so I needed the rain as the tired old 97rwkw needed all the help (and revs) it could get! Does it on gravel most weekends tho New motor on the way for more N/A POWA!!!

Only thing I've noticed is the dirty big flat spot around 3000 - 4000rpm. You've seen the dyno plot from the Dyno day a while back aye? Can be a real b1tch coming out of turns, I really struggle to get off them when I've just dived up under someone. Have to actually kick the clutch to get it going, so they don't pass me like i'm standing still! Yeah I know the red one has more poke, but i would honestly expect a lighter car on semi-slicks, with a lightened flywheel (and flat shifting!) would at least get the jump off the line in the first couple of gears.