240dreams

I set my timing to 15 degress BTDC. My plugs are gapped to .8mm

I'm having constant issues with getting my car to run properly. It's a S1 Rb25det in a S13. It feels like my car is pulling timing under any load over ~25% throttle. I've checked my coil packs and I sealed and taped them up already. I'm currently running without the factory boost solenoid. The wires for the solenoid are open and dangling in my engine bay right now. So that means I'm running whatever the wastegate is set to which I believe is 7psi. Does eliminating the boost solenoid from the system throw the ECU off and sets it in R&R mode? B/c I honestly feel like it's doing so. I also have another issue with my fuel mixtures. I'm running a Walboro fuel pump on a completely stock fuel system. So I think I'm overloading my stock fuel regulator. I'm going to check fuel pressure tomorrow to see if it's playing any part in this mess. Thanks for any tips.

Thanks for the acknowledgement.

I heard that TJ stands for a Series 2 ECU. Is this correct? My motor is a Series 1. I'm guessing it can cause issues with spark...

I'm honestly not sure but I took a picture of it today. Can anyone identify it by this tag?

Yes I did that. My issue is not within the timing procedure. It's how the motor reacts to stock timing.

I'm new to RB's but I'm not new to Nissans and timing them in general. Also, I'm a techinician for Honda. I'm definitely pointing the gun correctly. I also learned that it's easiet from the right hand side. The timing indicator is also easier to see from that angle.

I'm checking timing with a Snap On timing gun using FSM procedures. When I was setting timing to 15*, I aimed for the 4th mark from the left on the crank pulley. For example: l l l l <---This one 0* 5* 10* 15* I'm running 93 octane fuel (highest grade available here). I'll try octane booster to see if that makes a difference or not at 15* BTDC. I just went back out for a quick drive. I don't really want to drive too much b/c of my lack of fans. But I noticed that at 15*,17*, and 20* my car felt slow. It honestly felt more sluggish than a stock KA24DE. So in desperation, I rotated the CAS completely counter clockwise (advanced) and went for another drive. It felt great - like a 6 cylinder turbo should. Albeit it wasn't too smooth due to some ignition misfires but it actually felt fast and it knocked my head into the seat. None of this occured at close to stock timing. I'll have to wait to get some fans on before I got out for joy rides again. I don't think I've been doing my engine any good running w/o fans.

Is that +6 degrees over stock timing (21* BTDC). How modded is your engine?

If it's a T25, then its going to be tough getting to that power goal. It's max efficiency is around 14 psi. Any more boost after that is just hot air. His max power will probably be very close to 180RWKWS though. If its a T28, I'm sure its achievable. With maybe 12-14 psi of boost the turbo will still be in it's efficiency range. It won't be pusing as much hot air as a T25 would.

It does look like a non ball bearing T28 off of a S13 or S14. The 5 bolt flange looks like the one from my T25 SR20. I can't really tell you if it is infact a T25 or T28 though. Max power from a T25 if probably ~250RWHP and max power from the T28 is probably ~300RWHP depending on what motor you're trying to put it on and supporting mods.

I once had an issue on the dyno. We were doing 4th gear pulls and my speed cut was kicking in at 112MPH (179KMH). Therefore it enabled a fuel cut way before redline. I'm don't think that this is your problem since you said it doesn't happen in 1st at times but it's a thought. Are you running the correct heat range spark plugs?

Car is a 89 S13 engine is a Series 1 RB25DET. For some odd reason my car runs like crap on stock timing. There's just no power up top and it feels really rough. It makes lots of noise but doesn't really go anywhere. But when I set timing closer to 20* BTDC, it feels much better. It has more power and it comes on a lot smoother up top and down low. I know for a 5spd RB25 stock timing is 15* and for an auto stock timing is 20*. But my engine is a 5spd manual. I'm really stumped with this and I don't want to ruin my motor by running incorrect timing. Has anyone had an issue like his before? Any help is appreciated.

Found the problem! First I checked to see if I had fuel coming out of the feed and return lines off of the rail using the bottle and prime method. It turned out that I did have fuel going to the rail. But I swore that I wasn't getting fuel to the engine. So I disconnected the CAS to disable ignition and tried to start the car. I did this to see if my pugs would get soaked in fuel or not. Sure enough, there were dry. So right then and there I knew my problem was in the injectors. I originally bought the car as an unfinished project and I had to redo the wiring because I wasn't comfortable with crimp connections that the original owner used. I double checked my injector circuit and I found that there was an open in the injector power source (grey wire) where the original owner used a splice crimp thingy. So I closed the connection and bam she fired. So I guess I did run out of gas after all. Thanks for those who helped.

The fuel filter was new before I ran out of gas. I just realized that I might have another issue. I didn't have my fans on when I was setting timing and my idle speeds. And I think I remembered seeing my water temp gauge hit "H". So I'm sure I was overheating and running out of fuel at the same time. I had the car idling at the time. Can overheating at idle cause my car not to start? I didn't notice any audible knock, boiling coolant, or anything out of the ordinary.

At least disconnect the negative battery terminal before attempting to work on the car's airbag system.

My fuel lines are not crossed. Tomorrow I'll check to see if I have fuel by pulling a line off and priming it. Thanks for the tips guys.

2.5 gallons is 9.46 liters. Sorry I'm from the US. I've tried starting it lots of times. Maybe too many times at this point. My fuel pump was submerged in fuel when I pulled it out. I'm pretty positive that I'm lacking fuel and or fuel pressure. I don't smell fuel at all during cranking and the plugs stay dry. I'll have to check my fuel pressure to confirm this.

First of all I have a S1 RB25DET in a 89 S13. I was tinkering with it the other day then suddenly, it started to stumble and die. My gas light was on and the gas level was so low that it got stuck on the plastic cover. So I automatically assumed that I ran out of gas. No big deal. I let it sit for a few days before trying to start it again. Now today, I filled maybe 2.5 gallons of gas into the car. As I went to start it, it didn't start. I tried numerous times. Things I know: - I have spark - The fuel pump primes on "key on" - After cranking, I checked plugs 1 and 2 and they were dry. No fuel on them. I was expecting them to be wet and fouled from all of the starting attempts - The car ran perfectly before it died. I was setting timing and idle and it drove great at that time. - I pulled the fuel pump out and the sock looked kinda dirty. I also noticed some rust flakes/dirt in the tank. - The fuel pump and filter are brand new. Is it possible that the fuel pump sock or filter is clogged because I ran the gas so low causing it to pick up dirt at the bottom of the tank? That's about all that I can think of right now. As I find out more information, I'll notify you guys. Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm sorry is this is a newbie question but, would you need to use a SAFC or some type of computer in order to run a Z32 maf? I know for my SR20 I had to use a SAFC to change the MAF values in order for my car to even run. Is this the same for the RB25DET?

In general, a faulty TPS will cause your car to buck and hesistate. It'll feel like a slight misfire. If you have an automatic trans, it will not shift correctly. You can check TPS voltages by following the diagnostics steps in the FSM.