Full-Race Geoff

The new issue of modified magazine is on news stands, check it out!! We got 2nd place in AWD class. Full-Race has recently received a lot of PMs and emails now that the new issue of the Tuner shootout is on newstands. The updated R14 portion of the Full-Race.com site is coming next week, but to answer the basic questions, ill copy/paste the beginning text for you: Full-Race.com -- R14 DIY HOW-TO info this portion of the Full-Race.com website breaks down the R14 conversion in detail. Pictures and information help to make it clear how to do this AWD RB26 swap. If you've done a few different motor swaps, installed some turbokits, know how to use a hand-drill + welder (220 Volt Mig welder recommended), and are committed/prepared to take on a big project you can tackle this install. If you dont know how to do swaps or install aftermarket turbokits, do not start this conversion until you have more experience or better understand the process. A) Required BIG parts: -(95-98) S14 Chassis, S15 will work too. S13 will NOT work for this swap!! < -R32 GTR front clip w/ complete front suspension and complete rear subframe <easy to find at any big JDM importers/yards> -Full-Race R14 DIY kit ^^^If you can acquire all of the above items^^^ all the big purchases are out of the way. B) Full-Race R14 kit consists of these parts required to do the swap: R14 Frame Rails (Left and Right side) R14 billet frame blocks Subframe Bolts/washers LHD RB26 steering rack Transmission Mount Frame side Transmission Mount-plate Front Upper-Control-Arm Structure (Upper Shock mounts) Lower Shock mounts 1-piece Driveshaft (Aluminum or Steel) 1/2" Eye-to-Eye Coilovers - Moton or Koni (Circletrack or Road Race style heim-mounted) Here is how it all works, and enough instructions to get you going: First, start by getting the R32 GTR clip fully disassembled. We will be using almost every major component from this clip. Keep all the suspension control arms, brakes, hubs and bolts sorted, with their respective hardware. The engine and transmission should be inspected and it is recommended to refresh it - new timing belt, clutch, oil pump, etc. At this point, the subframe should be unbolted from the motor mounts and then cleaned/prepped for the swap.... to be continued. Thanks for the interest in the R14 conversions!

heres what ive come up with: 3843S-RS520 MSRP: $240 3843S-RS521 MSRP: $240 3843S-RS650 DISCONTINUED 3843S-RS651 MSRP: $210 RS521 on order

that is the best info ive received in years THANK YOU!!! Im really excited to use this kit in my R32/R33 rear diff, but had no idea it would fit the R34 diff also! Would the vspec be the active diff model you are referring to? We have an R34 here which i would love to do this to, I had no idea this kit would work there also. Thanks for the info btw some great info here on link lengths: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...suspension.html

yes, thank you beer baron!! that is exactly what i was thinking, sent an email to a nissan buddy of mine to try and get that for me. What do you ascertain to be th difference between serrated disc and smooth disc? i suppose the serratted disc would run slightly cooler due to having more gear oil between the plates

thank you savman, im going to go with the 14 then, i really like the rear to have a solid lock, dont mind it on the street. nzm - yes they are alloy. if you have gtst and want to upgrade to alloy knuckles you need z32, not gtr

What is the difference from serrated to smooth disc, and why did you decide on 8 vs 12? thanks alot!

i have the 2007 nismo catalog, but there are (4) kits available? take a look, do you know the differences? could you please you ask your mate if he got the 8kg or 12kg? and serrated disc or smooth disc?

i dont think this will change the anti-characteristics, since the actual pickup points do not move...

thanks, but that is for the viscous diff - the GTR uses a clutch diff!

some susp mods to consider -- courtesy of nagisa auto R34 GTR we have an R34 gtr here with the complete nagisa kit for anyone interested. i can snap some pics of the susp components for detail.

i would love to post pics of the r34 here in the shop right now, but i can not release any pics for a few more months. the turbocharging industry is in for big changes. i promise details and data will be released as soon as is allowed for me to share

thanks for the info - how are you shimming the diff? Can you share any pics of this? I think the aftermarket center will probably happen, but this would be a nice solution for the time being. Also going to open the transfer case up and see if i can add 2 more discs in there. the quaife does fine in the front here because ive never lifted a front yet... if i could do it again it would be an ATS or OS giken front AND rear.

i already have a quaife front diff, and i am sponsored by the driveshaftshop, so the axles are no problem. i need to fix my rear diff now tho as the stock gtr clutchpacks keep going open.

here are some pics of the ATESSA test-jig i built. It is going to a very bright electrical engineer friend of mine who has experience with his own tq split ECU for time attack subarus. The GST subaru runs his system with great results. cant wait to see what he comes up with - using onboard G sensor built onto his circuit board

yes duncan, i do agree with that! unfortunately tallish ride height is required to keep the susp working right

if you are asking about "tilting the subframe" you can do that to change antisquat... however i didnt do that - i only spaced the snout of my driveshaft down with washers becuase instead of tilting the subframe, i just lifted it up all the way (until i couldnt raise it anymore) and my driveshaft is giant so it would almost hit the gas tank shield. Raising the subframe like this this did have a small change in antisquat, but the big difference is massive roll center correction. The front of a GTR is way easy to correct roll center with - front balljoint spacers + adjustable tie rod ends. If you want good traction - what are the lengths you are using for your RUCA and Rear traction rod? Taking the time to measure bumpsteer is advised.. i can tell you that the year 2010 is going to be a BIG year for the turbocharging industry

Here is the dynochart from my latest round of testing with my RB26 (this was done in 4wd, on UMS's awd dynapacks, previous testing was done in 2wd mode) this compares the S300P 0.80 a/r to the S300SX w/ 88mm compressor 1.00 a/r orange: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 17.5psi tapering to 16psi green: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 20.5psi tapering to 17.5psi VS pink:S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi blue: S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi (same as above) with slight cam gear adjustment (advanced to +3 intake from +2, and added a little fuel during spoolup) you can see the considerable gains in area-under-the-curve that i was able to acheive with this new turbo, and very small loss up top - well worth the tradeoff. now that im all done, considering the amount of work I went through for this and time and expense required to make this S300P work, i think the 83-75 would have provided virtually the same powerband, and fit better as well as be easier to install. ^^I would kill to get that powerband with my RB26.. no problem!! we will have a solution for the twin turbo guys T25 setups in the fall well worth waiting for.. sorry i dont understand what you want to hear more about?

just got back from the dyno and printed off some comparisons - I will update the thread with the dynocharts, seeing some very interesting trends you guys will be interested in

Please post the video link http://www.full-race.com/r14-fire-video.html on any forums or social networking sites you visit!! we need a lot of video views to make sure our sponsors stay with us for next year - you wouldnt believe how hard it is to get sponsorships these days, even for us

here is some video of our final lap of the day (fast lap) and the cooldown lap: Full-Race R14 Catches Fire at 2010 Tuner Shootout (Video) <--- click here You can hear the aluminum exhaust break around 1min 25secs, and thats when things start to get scary.. the exh setup was we used a 22" long stainless DP, followed by the long aluminum exhuast. We used header wrap at the front of the exh, to protect the p/s hoses from heat, and this likely shortened the exhaust's life.. This aluminum exh has seen a lot of abuse, many hours of dynoing, street driving and practice sessions. The heavy loads during the time attack event were just too much and it gave up fortunately it was an easy cleanup, the car is already back to blingin! needs a little work this weekend, but will be 100% by monday. here she is during some street driving

yes i am aware of that, as well as the Bee*R unit and HKS has one also. i personally dont like any of the piggybacks, i feel a standalone controller is the only way to _properly_ get it done...

i promise a big post with more updates is coming, but right now its late and i need to eat some food.. in the meantime here is a breakdown of the atessa unit, ive got big things in store for this -- the data we acquired during testing and at the race taught me a lot about tq split and how good the stock nissan systems design is - just not the stock atessa ecu. I am working with a high level engineer on a standalone tq split controller that will replace the atessa ecu.

could you please post up the gear ratios on this setup?

what a busy weekend, ive got a TON of pics/vids to sort thru and will make an update probably friday. phew its over! now i get to start on a new race car... learned sooooooooo much

thanks guys, its going to be a long week but should have some good results in a few more days. very happy with the setup overall - the twinscroll turbo + tomei 280 is a killer combination