Full-Race Geoff

R14 shakedowns at bondurant today 4/5/2010, low boost (13psi) extremely happy with this new turbo

after i test it, assuming we see favorable results they can be ordered with a 4 week leadtime. If it does not do what we expect, it will not be released. I had a friend with a 100% stock R33 RB26 (Stock cams, stock everything) tune with a twinscroll 35R today for good reference. i will post that dyno up shortly, and then compare my new turbo dynosheet to it

so we got that weird dip figured out tonite, and why it was so laggy -- there was a small tear in the wastegate diaphragm! this caused extra lag, and weird behavior when the wastegate was opening. NOTE: LEARN FROM MY ERROR -- ALWAYS RUN THE WASTEGATES OFF COMPRESSOR HSG TO AVOID ANY VACUUM BEING SEEN BY THE WASTEGATE> IF YOU RUN WASTEGATE OFF OF INTAKE MANIFOLD USE A CHECK VALVE

only s13/r32 have the fuel tank there. s14/r33/r34 have the fuel tank above and in front of the rear subframe (under the back seat)

my friend has a skateboard that on the bottom says "Scared Money Don't Make NONE" it became a joke around here but its the truth, if youre sitting around bullsh!tting you wont get anything done -- so cut the bitch!! we got work to do, no time to sit! haha bumpsteer is perfect -- 8.50" inch traction rod, 12.25" RUCA - i suggest anyone with an R33/R34 or a modified R32 rear subframe run this link length

NEW prototype BorgWarner Twinscroll Turbo - dubbed S300'P' ^^^look at the super badass turbine wheel geometry and my favorite feature of all, the vband compressor hsg to CHRA. soooo slick. I am looking to spool 1000rpm quicker and make 700+whp at 30psi boost... this should do it. the legendary extended tip compressor wheel design, this is only 61mm inducer / 83mm exducer turbo, just like a GT35R but it moves 72lb/min at full-tilt, HUGE airflow for this small of a turbo (35R is 62lb/min for example). take a look at the far tip you can see the little "peak" that is mountain shaped on the top of each blade? thats the extended tip getting ready for the charge pipe modification 4" downpipe flange welded on ^^old vs new... you can see how much smaller the new turbo really is ^^got the manifold and downpipe 2000degree HPC coated, and will use DEI heat wrap on top of the coating to further reduce engine bay temps Front Aero ^^front splitter mounted on the car, you can also see the radiator ducting. coolers will be remounted and ducted next ^^strong enough for 330lbs @ 0mph, should handle 300+lbs downforce at 170mph! Rear diffuser to make a functional rear diffuser, it requires that there be an area with no obtrustions to block air from exiting under the chassis or from behind the tires. I started by cutting the quarter panels level with the frame rail, and then i cut out the spare tire well ^^cutting quarter panels level with the frame rail ^^removing spare tire well ^^20 ga steel plate fabricated, and mig tack'd in place. ^^welds cleaned up, spray painted grey flat bottom rear is finished! now time to bolt up the diffuser when it gets back from powdercoat on monday :naughty this bumper will be trimmed generously! another shot of the rear, but this time the new spindles with proper toe rod geometry is installed as she sits tonite, getting ready for a looong weekend! now i have to corner weight the car, align it, and do a few tweaks from my friends from M-workz and motoIQ, then i can finish the aero, and turbo for one last update before the race. see you guys for one last update in 1 week!

i strongly recommend that you use 100% genuine borgwarner airwerks turbochargers!!! Bullseye power is a knockoff of the BorgWarner, it is not the same. here is the latest update for you guys: To start this installment, many hardcore car guy know that the best suspension in the world is MOTON. Seriously - nothing else comes close. I researched my options - considered ohlins, bilstein, kw, penske but at the end of the day, none had what i was looking for except Moton. I HATE upgrading parts and only want to buy good suspension once, so i bit the bullet and what showed up was heavenly. The quality of these absolutely exceeded expectation, and im blown away (im a very picky engineer, this doesnt happen often) suspension of this caliber is seriously next level :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown :bowdown MOTON ^^ a total thing of beauty. Moton double adjustables (15 independant bump and rebound settings, blowoff valve system for high speed bump control, huge main piston, remote reservoir compression adjusters mounted on swivel banjo fittings (makes mounting them easy!), and 2.25" spring hardware. ^^this is the top-secret R14 front suspension ive never shown anyone before. consider yourselves lucky :rotflmao the Motons fit so perfect, its like the motons were just meant to be.. this is showing the drivers side remote reservoir compression adjuster (pass side) now to the rear -- installed (but waiting on the tender springs to arrive) reservoir located, you can also see the fuel pump wiring easy to see how the adjusters are mounted facing inwards, easy to access without removing the wheel tire clearance at full droop tire clearance at full bump both reservoirs mounted, and the wing mount i am building now from 0.035 4130 cromoly

i am not able to disclose any information about the wheel materials or bearing assy but i will share as soon as they give me the green light -- very innovative stuff

prototype borgwarner turbo just arrived. currently waiting on the new tial MVR wastegate - FINALLY shipping next week - these things should be sick! more pics coming soon

full updates posted here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4827...-tuner-shootout final vmount pics: bubbler tank for vmount: rear susp is back under the knife, but shocks are inverted on the dyno, 100% RWD: ^^jeff evans tuning ^^final 88-75 dyno at 20 psi on E85 - too laggy. will upload a fun dyno vid tonite or tomorrow theres 4 weeks left and TONS of work to do still, will be swapping on a prototype S300 turbo from BW shortly! dont know if ill be able to post much more until after the event, the heat is on and clock is ticking

those pics are all 4 years old, im working hard today should have some good new pics to share later tonite

oh boy do i have updates... getting tuned on weds so i dont have any time to download pics or post. soon after tho

stripped the rear subframe down 3 more times in the last 20 hours... shes going together one last time! and oh-so-sick... not a single rubber bushing anywhere

here are a few more from last week ^^^eliminated the bushing, spherical bearings everywhere! ^^^aluminum knuckle, modified lower shock mount and toe link mount ^^^upper shock mounts I just pulled 2.5 days of straight fabrication with we got the vmount and entire front end really dialed, will post pics once completed. you guys will love it, especially with the bumper cover off

could you please post a pic of this? thanks! this would help me right now

i eliminated the bushes in the rear LCAs, converted to heims (just like i did with the upper arm). Also, me and a pro drifter friend of mine (forrest wang from hawaii) just finished 2 days of hard work on the vmount and aero, plus a serious front end ready to battle... I dont want to post pice until completed but you guys will really like it. huge adjustable front splitter also

gussetted the LCAs + put new balljoints in: the real fun comes tomorrow... starting on the vmount

still needs 2 more tubes and some sphericals for the uprights, should go back in 2 days from now

actually there was zero cutting required for the upper arm in the S14 chassis, that is the point of our conversion. There is welding, but no cutting. I will post some more pics during the next round of work. i am just about finished with my rear subframe, very very happy with the end result. Got some bushings to press and a cpl welds left, you guys are going to like it my new stainless fuel filter came in so i can finish the fuel lines and now i really ned to start working on mounting my NASCAR front splitter and the ic/rad/bumper, making all of them quick release

PLEASE POST!!! i dropped my subframe and stripped it down today, getting ready to weld tomorrow. would really help me to see pics now (and save me a bit of time)

that was a huge help, I am with you 100% on the rear. The front is where i am trying to find what setups people like. here are some pics of my setup, you will see why R32GTR is just perfect for this cars strut tower spacing (keep in mind this pic shows 7 degrees positive caster, and it works very well - no worn bushes): This is a kit we are wrapping up development on for enthusiasts to do the swap themselves, all they need is a good MIG welder. I am only interested in tuning this setup to the best of its abilities, not interested in starting from scratch with a fabricated double wishbone setup. As far as i know, the midori seibi R34GTR is one of the fastest GTRs in japan, and Ive got some pics of that car where you can see what the do differently: ^^in this picture you can see they mount the tension rod *under* the front LCA + they use a tall spacer on the tierod from the knuckle ^^in this picture you can clearly see there is no balljoint spacer (aka roll center adjuster) between the ball joint and front spindle. Also it appears to be a stock height ball joint. ^^this pic shows the rear susp and you can see where they beefed up the toe link, added a tube for support between the RUCA and Traction rod mounts on the subframe, and by looking at the exposed threads on the subframe mount, it is clear that the subframe has been moved up as far as is possible Id love to get input from John at Unique -- does he post on this forum? thanks again for that last post, I checked my car and the parts i have here, i had (10) 05U arms (i assume that is R32 GTR) and only (4) of the 3N GTR - i assume that this is R33? Ive always had the 3N GTR arms on my car so i assume that may be why i always was happy with my camber curve, with the stock UCAs. pics: --------------------------------------- here are some more pics to keep the thread alive ^^^my kind of RUCA, plenty of strut clearance, easy to get replacement heims for, and it cost $50 in parts ^^how the heim will sit inside of the welded spindle I posted last time ^^^welded the fender braces to the sheet metal, these can make a difference if the cage doesnt pierce the firewall - but only if they are welded in. ^^its a huge hassle to jack a 240 with big sideskirts + i needed some stiff mounts for the bellypan aero - so we made these jackpoints/bellypan mounts ^^^sealed up the area from frame rail to skirts, and put a little dynamat in there to keep things quiet. will finish the center and f/r in 2 weekends. more random pics:

oh wow thanks for that bit of info! i have many clips, r32 and r33, will have to go measure them and use the longest to get the most negative camber. to clarify - do you have any idea how much shorter the 32GTR LCA is than 33GTR?

thanks for all the compliments guys, glad you like the build. r32GTR must be used in the front susp because of space constraints of the s14 chassis... r33/r34 upper control arms simply will not fit. Im not sure where you got your info djrift becuase the only real difference from r32 to r33 is that the upper control arm on the r33 is a true wishbone, whereas the R32 is a single link. otherwise the subframes are identical, LCAs are identical, ball joints are identical... just different upper arm (camber curve) and the fact that i can put my casterat 7 degrees while an r33/r34 cant move their is a big advantage to me. I have cycled my susp and do have a small amount of toe change (bumpsteer) and i dont want to make any changes until i figure out what to do with the roll center spacers between the ball joint and knuckle... doesnt make any sense to fix the bumpsteer and then have to change it again for the rollcenter spacers. anyone on here experimenting with the roll center adjusters?

Thanks dane, just posted up and added some pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...tr-t306963.html thanks for the advice. unfortuantely the money is blown on the aero package and motons. the r34 brembos will have to do, we got a SUPER aggressive pad that should shred rotors so well see what it can do

Hello resident SAU experts, I have decided to turn my GTR-based S14 into a time-attack machine for a big race event coming up (modified tuner shootout). it will go back to occasional street car duty afterwards (laws are loose where i live), but first and foremost I am working hard to make the car competitive for the event. We got 2nd place the last 2 years in heavily modified street subarus and we dont want to give that up. A street subaru wont get us 2nd this year - there will be a dedicated track porsche 911 twin turbo awd as well as the sierra sierra cosworth evo and tarzan is driving crawford's STI so we have to be on top of our game to do well. I own full-race and have a team of expert welders/fabricators so we can build almost anything. We have 10 weeks before the event. The chassis and engine are VERY solid and have plenty of time with no problems. Our driver is an ace and knows this track extraordinarily well. Specs are: full roll cage, proper bracing in the right spots r34 gtr brembos front and rear, pfc 01 pads, brake ducting R32GTR front suspension, caster changed to 7degrees through custom upper control arm mounts. Stock swaybar, Stock Upper Arms, Stock lower arms, Stock tierods, Quaife Front LSD, urethane swaybar bushings R33GTR rear suspension, full adjustable links, R32GTR stock swaybar, nismo LSD Tires are Hoosier A6 (Autocross compound for time attack) and BFG R1 (enduro + lapping) 275/35 on a 18x10.5 Torque Split is running fixed with 40-55-60psi in the transfer case (ATTESSA eliminated) depending on preference and tires/track condition its a built motor, single twinscroll turbo, 680hp on E85 (helps response), good oiling system and cooling is getting improved right now I am getting a set of triple adjustable motons, and they will be used only for the track (will switch out to my koni 28 series for the street). Curious on what you guys have used with regards to spring rates on a full aero equipped gtr at track weight (~3000lbs dry) Please advise on roll center adjuster height, tie rod changes, spring rates, alignment and anything else pertinent. We are taking care of aero and improving the cooling right now, will jump on susp middle of next week, waiting on the motons and will need to make some decisions soon. here are some pics of the engine setup 2 months ago while i was daily driving it (engine/turbo will remain unchanged) and the twinscroll borg warner S300SX 88-75 turbo, with 90 degree compressor housing. -- crappy dyno of pump gas at 19psi. e85 tune will be at 30 psi and will destroy this some pics of the changes im making now: ^^new vmount, optimized radiator airflow ^^modified R32 GTR spindles to accept the 1/2" heims on the motons AND dropped the toe link 30mm to adjust for bumpsteer. will finish machining this weekend ^^surge tank with dual 044s, to run 100psi base fuel pressure on E85 PLEASE ADVISE: -roll center modifications to the front/rear? -bumpsteer mods for the front end? -spring rate ranges for slicks and full aero package thanks for reading, i hope to represent the RB26s well!