Full-Race Geoff

our RB twin turbo kit is designed as IWG only. The kit was designed in this configuration for maximum performance and simplicity. These internal gates work extremely well and if you need a particular boost config the turbosmart IWG's are a good option. Going to an external gate adds complexity and cost due to the dumptube/ewg/flanges/clamps/hardware... This weekend i get to drive a built 2.8L Twin 7163 R34 GTR -looking forward to it 8374 is a lot of fun, I can only imagine with the V-cam yes the 9174 was initially tested on Sierra Sierra's Time attack evo in the early days. It spools right between 8374 and 9180 and makes power right between 8374 and 9180. It was never released but we've seen through testing it is a good unit and may put into production. The biggest advantage is this turbo has the ability to spin the EFR 91mm compressor wheel to 125k rpm (9180 max speed is 116k rpm) lol - in all seriousness, the singles have their place (got one on my car) but twin EFRs are next-level

the ETS-Pro maintains a low duty cycle and never fully opens/disconnects the clutchpacks, to keep 4wd response instantaneous. when you switch to RWD it goes to 0 duty and the clutchpack is fully open, there is no load on the diff.

more than likely everything is fine, but the 1.5way Nismo LSD is locking/unlocking to cause that vibration. Definitely a good idea to check wiring but I suspect its the clutches in your front lsd hi, could you clarify what was wrong with the TPS? It is only a single output, 0-5V reference

These two systems work together in concert -- the haltech platinum pro is a great standalone engine ECU, it controls your engine and fuel/ignition only. Our ETS-Pro is a standalone torque split controller, and controls only the center-differential.

#1 as long as youre using 1.05 a/r on the 8374 and on the 7670 -- they should drop in place of each other without any changes other than IC piping coupler and intake coupler to suit. I doubt the 8374 will not be responsive enough on RB26, its a really really good combination #2 Haltech ECU is very good, it can control the EFR 3 port BCSV or the profec solenoid you already have. We just started to carry the 4 port solenoids also, which is an option to consider I disagree Piggaz, i dont think he will need to change anything on the hotside between these two turbos

Peter, Please understand the max speed will depend entirely on the diameter of the wheels, it doesn't matter who makes the turbo. 560 m/s is turbo mfg's definition of max wheel speed. This is the same across the board for "maximum tip speed" -- Not krpm which does not factor in diameter. 153k rpm is enough to fail most any gt35R or gt40R sized turbo and can only be acheived with a significant boost leak. unfortunately most people do not accurately monitor turbo shaft speed or EMAP which are 2 critical operating parameters for these engines Peter, your friend's Evo has a very small turbo or his speed sensor is setup wrong. There is no reason any aftermarket garrett turbo on evo should be operating at 170k rpm. it would need to have a small turbo with boost leak.

hi matt, glad to know you like the turbos. I can understand your wanting to understand what happened here, but quoting that post from 3+ years ago seems a little pointless to me... in response to your questions -Full-Race can not help you with this, we did not supply the turbo -turbo overspeed can cause turbine wheel failure, yes -unless your setup causes turbo overspeed, probably not -without question, keeping shaft speed below "maximum" is a good idea -i dont have any information on turbos that did not come through full-race, it would be in your best interest to contact your supplier and have them handle things from here.

the 82mm is a monster turbo and the 87mm turbine wheel in 1.25 a/r works very well. However I prefer twin S300SX to giant single S400 or S500 when targetting really big power numbers. although for a drag car singles are no question easier to package and service, both have their upsides

Hi cobrAA -- for the Full-Race single turbo manifold, you can use any power steering pump you like. the RB20/RB25/R33/R34 single stage PS pump provides the best fitment but its not mandatory to do. However - Our twinturbo EFR kit is mandatory to use the single stage PS pump belt does not change - just converting from a twin stage (for hicas) to single stage (non hicas)

full clockwise is biased towards center diff-lock (50/50) full counter clockwise is biased towards RWD. if you ground the ebrake switch, that is 100% RWD (0psi in xfer case)

yes, fully interchangable. The housings are direct plug and play for a given wheel size! we have these in stock if anyone wants to try we have the 0.83, 0.92 and 1.45 a/r exhaust housings in stock - no wait. only the 1.05 are hard to get at this moment Keep in mind - that is a fully built 2.4L race evo, with our AC compatible / Stock radiator kit. This uses the smallest runners and most restricted 3" downpipe for any kit we make. I believe there is >100+hp on the table by going to a larger diameter runner and nonAC downpipe

Nick - an instance like this would be very helpful to have a turbo shaft speed sensor. This way you could correlate shaft speeds and determine if you had a boost leak (high shaft speed) or an exhaust restriction (low shaft speed) good idea to check that, and running without the muffler connected may easily help determine this - as compared to looking through it (seperating welds) or cutting it open for inspection Overlap is not a bad thing on high VE twinscroll 4 cylinder engines. In fact the best turbo 4 cyl race motors we end up with are typically using moderately aggressive all motor cams... i can not comment about your cam gear settings, but do not believe changing the cams would resolve anything

that is a good point scotty - Ive also seen the flex joints with internal braid fail, and it makes a 1.5" opening. Dropping the exhaust is the easiest/fastest way to check this, if you are not monitoring exhaust manifold pressure. For this reason i always recommend to use a flex without internal braid hard for me to draw any conclusions being on the other side of the planet and unfamiliar with the particulars on this setup - not knowing ignition advance, turbo shaft speed, EMAP or WGDC its really just guessing I will say that a mainline dyno is by far the lowest reading Dyno ive ever used. We had a 500whp dynapack/490whp dynojet subaru (twinscroll 7670) make 340whp on a mainline 4wd dyno recently

dont knock it, if you havent tried it that 7163 is a sick little turbo. the fact that it's in a smallish package is just to help make my life easier when fitting twins on an R32 or R35. If that photo of the 7163 was taken next to a 3071R and it doesnt look so tiny but the b2 EFR is a big frame size By the way, putting a huge diameter inlet ported shroud compressor housing on the 7163 saw zero benefit across the map. the decision was made to keep the package size minimal with 2.5" inlet and 2.0" outlet.

Hi, the G-Sensor install should be firmly affixed to a level surface. arrow facing forward, screws facing upwards. Two part epoxy is ideal. Never use tape of any type. more info here: http://www.full-race.com/articles/ets-pro-install-guide.html

the 7163 is about 40mm shorter in axial length and the turbine housing's physical diameter is smaller. If you are really tight on space, its easy to weld a T3 flange (SS) to the B1 EFR's stainless Vband like this potential for sleeper status is strong on this one

7163 with T3 external gate will be on display at PRI. It is a new option that becomes available next year. sales of the T3 internal gate housings were very slow so any future T3 housings are likely to be external gate only Lith - i will be sure to take some photos of all this for you.

hey guys i am heading to Indianapolis for PRI - will be in the borgwarner booth all week. If you would like to see any photos of anythign in particular feel free to email me and i will send photos back to you. not sure if i can get on the forum or not but i will try this is an R34 GTR, stock RB26, drop in tomei poncams, EFR8374 IWG, turbosmart 26psi actuator, E85: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=889867284373281&set=vb.587452941281385&type=2&theater I have to agree, 630-650 ultra responsive whp is how i prefer to setup road cars. So often people get caught up in dyno #s and peak power, they forget what its like to enjoy being behind the wheel. I want a car that is "fun to drive" and also very fast. Regardless of what the dyno chart says, if its not driveable and responsive its not fun 7163 sounds like it may be a nice choice. Keep in mind all 7163 are 0.85 a/r (the 0.64 a/r did not offer any gains or earlier spool in lab testing). I would suggest to consider a t3 to vband adaptor on the 7163 vband turbo. 7064 is also an excellent turbo, but i think its physical dimensions would not fit the oem RB manifold as easily and compact as the B1-frame 7163 Mick, it sounds like the twinscroll 7163, bottom mounted is probably what you are looking for. It's formally a 2015 kit according to our schedules and timeframe, but have the manifold and downpipe/midpipe in production if you wanted to do your own piping anyway. feel free to email me geoff@full-race.com and i can get back to you next week with more info. Ive had zero time for my own car, sorry to say its literally my daily driver and on a street tune. right after christmas time i will commence the beatings btw tonba: the 7670 IWG is a little big for Mick_o's power targets, and will fit as a top mounted only on the twin turbos, 6258's earlier spool is more noticeable. Also, on very small displacement engines like 800cc, 1000cc, 1300cc they do not get much benefit from the 6758. I will say for most 4cyl street cars, 6758 far outsells 6258. whereas for twin turbos and rally cars (restricted to 46mm) the 6258 is the way to go I agree, its really interesting to take an EFR vehicle off a dynojet and drive it on the street. The EFR turbo cars almost always spool significantly faster and make more boost on the road vs on the rollers who went 9s on radials with an EFR powered SR?

twin EFR7163 sounds like an excellent turbo for your goals. We have someone with an R35 making 1100whp but the turbos are maxxed out. I believe 1000whp is attainable with RB28. Considering the HP targets, 288 kelfords seem appropriately huge for this application. the single is less complex and less costly. However i do not believe the 9180 will reach his ambitious power goals as easily as the 7163 twins 7670 1.05 is a little on the small side, 8374 1.05 might be a better fit (considering your fuel) but good luck either way and post results ive got a friend/customer using rb25 vct mechanism swapped to his RB30/26 hybrid... pretty neat

If you want 1000+hp with EFR turbos -- go twins. twin 7163's is an impressive combination... literally off-the-shelf indycar turbos If you want 1000+hp with single turbo, then look at the airwerks turbos. keep in mind it can not spool or respond like the small EFR's yes, had it on display at SEMA - 43psi rated. The forge is not great, but is very popular. I think the turbosmart is a much better actuator and the ability to run 3 springs identically to their EWG is a nice feature. side by side and externally EFR8374 and EFR9180 turbos are 100% identical. The only difference is the diameter of the rotor pair (wheels) and the machining to suit. They are plug and play for each other, which 8374 are you trying to fit and to what engine? correct

Lately I've been impressed with some outstanding results with the IWG EFR turbos... I know there has been some doubt and questions about their functionality compared to an EWG -- but all along, BW engineers told me there isnt a big increase in exh flow from the 0.92 to the 1.05 and that we just needed more WG clamping force. I thought they were crazy bc the 1.05's consistently made more boost and consequently more power. However once we started using BW 'higher boost' actuators and Turbosmart's 26psi IWG we saw the boost acting like an EWG with significant gains due to the stiffer WG spring keeping that flapper shut. Most people do not log Exhaust Backpressure and Turbospeed which makes it difficult to assess from far away, but at this point I can confidently say the 0.92 turbos will make more power and more bosot if you ran the 26psi turbosmart IWG or the new efr actuator fyi - 0.92 a/r and 8374 IWG on a built evoX here: http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-dyno-results/702560-2012-gsr-round-3-efr-8374-iwg-711whp-486wtq.html

we currently have stock of a few 1.45 a/r EFR8374 and EFR9180. Tilton Interiors just won WTAC with a 9180 1.45 we helped to supply yes - Most people just use this: http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbo-accessories/road-rage-gages-tss-turbo-speed-scaler-2.html --I believe the haltech has 10 or 11 available inputs I cant think of any back-to-back yet, sorry. Edit: just saw your post about perrin. that 7163 he used for the comparison was a 1st-round prototype 7163, not the production unit. Performance of his test unit was more comparable to a 6758 0.85 than the final production version 7163

yes, you can use PowerFC or any other ECU with the EFR turbo. Simply wire the BCSV (boost control solenoid valve) to the original computer's boost control output (2 wires, not polarity specific) OR remove the EFR solenoid altogether and use your pre-existing boost control system. Many nissan, evo and subaru customers run stock computers like this both 7064 and 7670 could work on a RB25, but i think the 7163 would be outstanding.. agree, 7670 singlescroll is 'large' for a stock rb25. the 6758, 7163 and 7064 all make a lot of sense however I love turbosmart and believe many of their products are top-notch. However my preference on the BOV is the OEM borgwarner EFR compressor valve, I believe it is superior to anything else out there. The only change i like to make is the stiffer spring: http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbo-accessories/efr-blow-off-valve-stiff-spring.html I still like the BW IWG very much, but the turbosmart IWG adds the ability to change springs, since it literally uses the same springs as their external gates (and can fit 3 springs at the same time). here is chart to better explain this: in my experience the stock EFR valve has outperformed aftermarket versions... no surge on stock config, switch to aftermarket and there is suddenly compressor chatter

negligible, the EFR kits we offer are all designed to use the integrated recirc BOV. if there is a tial BOV listed it may be a mistake on the site

I consider a good front diff a mandatory upgrade on an R32/R33 (stock is fragile) and even though R34's front diff is stronger the improvement in vehicle dynamics from a proper limited slip differential is hard to argue with yes, 700whp is too much for a standard 5speed and wayy too much for a stock front diff. front diff will probably fail before the trans, but 3rd and 4th gear will let go too. with the stiff actuator on the 0.92 a/r I'd guesstimate the spool difference to be ~200-250rpm due to the smaller A/R. However, if a soft iwg actuator is on the 0.92 then they will spool about the same since you only have access to 94octane fuel with water/meth you are not going to be making that kind of power safely. Pump fuel is such poor consistency from pump to pump that you can not safely map with aggressive ignition timing. I made 590 on my car with pump gas, I could have made more and pushed it harder but I think that is probably a good stopping point and with meth you can get into the low-to-mid 600 range. keep in mind i was using an off-the-shelf catalytic converter, thats a big restriction. Admittedly we try to run E85 in everything since its easier on the motor to run high boost with some ignition advance