fr0st

Did they put ceramic apex seals in it? IIRC the apex seals are the first go, if they skimped whilst rebuilding it I wouldn't expect stockers to last that long at that kind of power. They also chew petrol like theres no tomorrow. I'd be asking for dyno proof of said 650hp if I was considering it. That said if you stick the motor in the smallest car you can and your bound for a heap of fun

A huybusa (spelling?) engine I think. One of those little turbo motorbike ones.

I never get any attension 3 inch turbo back into a cannon its definately loud enough... it just doesn't look riced enough to attract the attension of lancers and excels. I havn't even been pulled over since I bought the car, I'm jealous

You could just check it for shaft play yourself. Aslong as its not touching the housing or making a grinding noise it should be alright for a while atleast if thats the problem. Perhaps its time for a high flow

Too much shaft play causing it to whine perhaps? Does your current car have a pod and the your last car didn't? It could be a heap of things

I'm fairly sure fuel maps can't be adjusted at all from the consult interface like base timing. But for timing tuning, if you did a real time map trace through the consult and dynamicaly adjusted the base timing you could tune timing maps in real time. For instance, say if you wanted an extra 2 degrees of ignition at a certain rpm and load point, the program would give the 'change base timing by +2 degrees' command while the map trace shows it was using that certain cell. As soon as it left that cell it'd take away the command or issue a different one to suit another cell. I'm sure it could be done, I just don't really have the time and enthusiasm at the moment

Since summer is coming up I've been trying to fix the aircon so it actally blows some cold air for once. I've tracked down the problem to two places - I took out the aircon relay and put my multimeter in there and measured the clutch current (3.5 amps) and it makes a definate click when it engages so I assume that isn't the problem. If I put the climate control into full cold mode and the relay won't engage, all the fuses are ok (#8 & #17) and the relay is fine. Is the only thing between the climate control and aircon relay a fuse and the pressure switch? Is the pressure switch at the front of the car on a tank like thing hanging off one of the aircon lines? The other problem is when I had the engine running and the clutch engaged using the multimeter there was no cold air still. Theres a sticker under the hood saying it was gassed with 250grams of HR12 in 2003. I'm pretty sure its gone, which leaves the question why If I regas it is it just going to leak out again? How much am I looking at for a regas? Cheers for the help -Matt

Theres more than one form of antilag... The one most used it the rich and retard at idle and when shifting gears. You retard the timing so much that the combustion continues out the exhaust valve and down the manifold making hotter exhaust temps. It probably wouldn't reduce the life of your turbo unless you exceeding what the exhaust temp would be at full load but your engine would get worked from the increased heat. Another one I've heard of is instead of plumbing back the BOV to the intake its piped into the exhaust manifold. Theres also another one (I think they mentioned it on top gear) where they dump excess fuel into the exhaust manifold. It hits the sides of the chamber and ignite and generates more heat that way. I don't think you'd be able to drive the turbo shaft via anything without causing it to vibrate itself apart. The only was I could see it happening is it you have magnets on the compressor wheel and drive it like a brushless DC motor (nothing makes contact with the shaft or compressor).

There not even theoretically sound. These things use a motor that has about 90% efficiency. Charging you battery is ~60% efficient (?). On top of that the alternator is 80-90% efficient and it takes power from the motor to start with. I'm just pulling numbers out of my ass but you get the idea.

Just though of something else, there was no reflective "You have passed a speed camera sign" either. I dout they could have packed up in the time it took for me to turn around at the next set of lights. Asshat is the only option left

When I went past to check I put my radar detector up. Its a POS that only goes off when the camera is directly pointed at it... but it does go off. It never went off once. I also looked for anything resembling a camera going the opposite direction down canning highway, nothing again. I've never seen a multanova used backwards before in perth anyway. I saw two in the last week and there both facing head on.

I had my gears ground good this afternoon... I pulled onto canning highway from manning road and was just cruising at 60. A van pulls up next to me and goes "Hey man wind your window down". I kinda looked at him and funny and he goes "I just wanna tell you something" The conversation went something like HIM : "Mate you just got flashed by a speed camera" ME : "What the hell? where was it" HIM : "Just after we turned... I was behind you" ME : "Whats the speed limit?" HIM : "umm I dunno... 50?" ME : "F%$^" The inter car convo went for a little longer but I can't remember wtf he said. I was pretty skeptical since I've been flashed before and you definately know when its happend and I was driving at the friggen speed limit (it was 60... I double checked). I was shitting it because I have 2 points left and was 95% sure I was doing the limit anyway. I went back and looked and there was no camera... I checked todays multanova locations on the net and there was nothing on manning road or canning highway... Who the hell does that? What an asshat

I wouldn't mind seeing a car magazine with a DVD attached full of track day footage, interviews, car show fottage and other car stuff. The only thing better than looking at nice cars is hearing and looking at nice cars You obviously wouldn't be able to do it for every issue, but as a once off to get people back into the magazine it'd be great.

I like the sides on the R33... not a huge fan of the back. It doesn't quite fit in with the branding on the sides. Looks awesome regardless... would have cost a mint to get done

I can just imagine that now... COP : "Pop the bonnet sir" OTHER COP: "f**k me" COP : "we're going to yellow sticker you before your turbo sucks in a small child" What'd they get you for?

Love the L plates I'd go the grey personally. If you went the gold I think they'd stand out too much, it's need maybe a pin stipe the same color down each side or something to blend them in. They'd definately stand out though

This is from the LSU4 datasheet (which is the wideband bosch make)

The ECU only uses the o2 sensor when your cruising. As soon as you hit boost or get the revs too high it'll run rich again. Your best bet is probably a tune, they run rich from stock and its probably worse now you've modded it. If your AFR's are around 10-11 instead of 11-12 your going to be using more fuel and making less power. The temp sensor shouldn't make a difference, as far as I know the ecu just uses it as a warning signal. It might run overly rich if the light is coming on to reduce the temperature, but unless the light is coming on I don't think it'd be causing anything.

After I put in my highflow cat my fuel consumption has dropped to 10.2L/100km. At the pump it was 440 km of 45 liters with the gauge sitting just below the 1/4 mark. A fair bit of that was freeway to and from uni but I give it a squirt whenever I"m urban driving. Gotta love the little rb20 Have you checked things like fuel pressure, o2 sensor, injector flow test and crud in the exhaust? Theres no reason why mildly modded engines wouldn't be able to run close to the factory specs. You just have to keep eliminating things till you get it right.

Normal oxygen sensors are 0 to 1v. 0.5v is when the AFR is 14.7 so I'd say its stuffed. Have a look at this http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ Wideband sensors last for about 160 000km's so it should last you a while

Have you looked at this thread yet - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=129655 An RB25 is going to have more torque, but a 10k redline would make me giggle like a school girl Also putting an RB25 box in a R32 needs a custom/cut down tail shaft. That may add a fair bit to the final figure. but if your running a 250rwkw RB20 you'll probably need one anyway.

In my uneducated opinion, its probably rich and retard. You got more piping to pressurise, so your turbo is going to draw more air when it spools and then you get rich and retard. I'd try cleaning your AFM, with the mods you listed it shouldn't be hitting R&R

No crash history... or if it has had a minor acident that it was repaired properly. Drives well, no rattles or strange noises. Service history/Owner that knows his shit The car I bought had a manual conversion so its fairly unlikely it was thrashed hard in japan. That and the R33 box they put in it was a big plus for me. Engine ran well and still does its 10.5L/100km like when it was new. It had a few dints from people whacking it with car doors but overall it still in great condition. Make sure you get it detailed though or detail it yourself. Doing a proper claybar -> polish -> wax does wonders for the paint and makes it shiny as hell.

meh..nevermind

I havn't had time to download my ROM with the consult cable but the standard rom I have says the stock K value is 0101. Thats about a 40% decrease in fuel. If stock injectors are 270cc then the file would be for 380cc injectors. I think the factory ecu just runs rich all the time except on closed loop cruise. IIRC knock sensors are bits of piezo so they just act as microphones. So you'd get a frequency and a voltage. The higher the voltage, the higher the volume. I'd assume there somewhat tuned to pick up pinging so the ECU could just work off voltage and not worry about the frequency. Apart from a stock bin, I've found nothing