fr0st

Yer its just asking to get keyed One of my mates is saving for an XR6-Turbo and wants the plates 1FASTCOON... that was my comeback I think coon in general wouldn't be allowed on a plate.

COONKILA? (in reference to falcadores)

To get rid of the fuel pressure you take the fuel pump fuse out and then crank the engine a few times. IIRC standard fuel pressure is 38psi so you'll need a gauge is you haven't got one. The rest I have no idea

Theres a big thread here discussing it. People got some good results from them. Install is fairly easy. The DFA need to be spliced into the AFM signal (cut the afm wire near the ecu and connect to the DFA). Other than that it just needs power. The boost controller needs to be connected to the #1 injector output (also on the exu) and to a boost solenoid (not supplied). The linked thread has a pretty good explanation of how it all works.

You probably won't need an amp if your not buying a sub. If you don't have a sub your front and rears need to make all the bass and bass require alot of cone movement. When the cone moves for a big bass note the rest of the sound will be distorted unless you have a 3 way system. This always happens way before the 25Wrms the headunit will put out for most, if not all, 6.5inch speakers. If your going to go all out get a sub & amp combo and then highpass the front and rears so you can use all your headunits power. Highpassing removes the bass so there are no more low frequencies unsetting your mid range. Also getting an amp won't gain any sound quality unless you have a really terrible deck. Your probably better off spending the money on sound deadening or better speakers. If you really want an amp, Jaycar have the best bang for your buck amps. Definately get splits for the front. Having the tweeter mounted at ear level makes a huge difference to the quality. The rears arn't as important, afterall you don't sit in the back to listen to music Remember that when you talk to someone you look at them. You definately don't see people talking standing back to back... just apply the same thing to your car. You want the sound to come from in front of you. Best thing I can reccommend is getting bassy speakers for the rear to act as best as possible like a sub. You won't hear the midrange/treble much from them since your sitting close to your front speakers... but try not to drag the sound stage backwards. Bass isn't directional like midrange and treble so you can't tell where its coming from. And whatever you do, don't buy from strathfield There you go, n00b car audio 101 :sorcerer:

I work for a local electronics shop in Perth and have access to all of Jaycars stock at wholesale (or very close too) through Electus. The group buy would only be for the automotive kits plus things like the data cable for the digital fuel adjuster. The discount would be a minimum of 20% off RRP if 5 people bought the kit. Electus don't list further discounts but we could probably get more off if we had a huge order. On top of that I can offer to build the kit for you if your not able to do so yourself. Obiously if I'm going to be building 10+ kits for people it might take a while but I've had a soldering iron since I was 8 so I'm pretty handy with one. I'm not sure what I'd charge for this so suggest a figure that seems resonable if your interested in getting it built. Sofar the list of kits would be - Digital Fuel Adjuster ~$60 Hand Controller ~$45 iEBC ~$60 Digital Fuel Mixture Display ~$50 Intelligent Turbo Timer ~$35 If you have any requests let me know and I'll add it to the list. If your interested just reply with what kits your interested in getting and I'll add your name to the list. If there enough people interested I'll find out exact pricing and get the group buy started. Cheers -Matt

How many big horsepower cars do you see running bonnets? Having a colder intake will ALWAYS help power. Even if its only 5 degrees cooler out of the turbo its still means your turbo is cooler, your intercooler has to disapate less heat and the air entering your engine will be cooler. How is that not worth the small effort to make a heat shield?

Success! I bought a socket adapter that let me use my big wrench and got the sucker off. With a bit more swearing and skinned knuckles I finally got it on. The reo isn't sitting perfect yet and I ran out of daylight to cut the front bar but its all good sofar. If you have a active spoiler you have a up/down button on the left of the driver. I think you have to have the hand brake on before it'll work manually for some reason. Mine was pretty loud, you could hear it over the radio if it wasn't turned up alot.

I tried to remove my front motorised spoiler today to get my FMIC on and need to remove the reo to get to some of the obscurely placed nuts and bolts. On each side theres a bolt (which I could undo) and a another bolt sticking out from the chassis with a nut on the end. I tried using a socket and spanner and both couldn't move the nut. I tried RP7 and still no luck. Anyone got a sugestion on how I can get the sucker off? Car is a 1993 R32 type M Cheers -Matt

3x 80 gig SATA drives in a raid 0 array 120meg/s goodness EDIT: Forgot I have a 40gb 2.5 inch in a USB 2 caddy, good for sharing movies and whatnot with mates Also got a dual core opteron running @ 2.2Ghz and a 6600 GT. Don't have any jobs going do you alpha? I make for cheap labour

lol umm... I got the front bar off no problem The reo and headlights is what I can't get off. The reo is held is by a bolt and a nut on each side. I got the bolts out and the nuts wouldn't budge so the reo wouldn't slide forward. I tried a spanner and my little socket set with no luck. The headlights were even worse. I took the battery out and got the nut sitting under the what I think is a power stearing line. Further down is another nut but its stuck behind a solid pipe that isn't gonna move in a hurry. I could barely get a finger to it let alone a tool. Cheers for your help

oh sorry, intrusion bar = reinforcement bar I wasn't exactly sure what it was called. I got the front bumper off easy enough, but the intrusion bar didn't want to come off. Theres two pieces of metal coming down where you driving lights mount to, the front spoiler and its motor's etc are mounted to the inner side of that. They have bolts that hold them on from the top of that bit of metal which is under the headlight. If I can get the front spoiler motors off I would be set

I tried to put in my intercooler today and managed to remove alot of skin from my knuckles.... and thats about it. My 32 has the active front spoiler which is fitted to the exact place my cooler bolts onto. To get to the bolts on top of there mount you either have to remove the headlights or remove the front reinforment bar. Both kicked my ass The nuts that hold the headlights in from are hidden behind a few hoses that can't be moved easily and I can't fit a tool in there. The front reinforcment bar is held in by 2 big bolts and 2 nuts. I got the bolt off one side easy enough but couldn't get the damned bolt off. I tried covering it in RP7 and left it a atleast an hour and still no luck. Anyone know of a way I can get them off? It'd be a very straighforeward install if I could remove the spoiler motors or is there someone I can take it that'll give me a hand (and has the right tools)? I don't really wanna pay someone to do it all for me cause I want to learn to do things for myself Cheers -Matt

Another quick question... Does the front pipe fit a R32 aswell? I'm pretty sure there the same size... not entirely sure

Have you got pics of the rims? any gutter rash?

My BOV seems to go off even if my boost gauge (aftermarket one) isn't in the positive. From about 2200 onwards it goes nuts on every gearchange. I think its to do with the way you change gears... if you quickly take your foot of the accelerated with thottle body will snap shut, the little bit the turbo has spun up will provide enough boost to blow off. If you slowly take your foot off the accelerator you can spin down the turbo and no bov noise. Atleast that how I think it works... I could be totally wrong

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...d+car+detailing There ya go

Give this a read - http://www.waxit.com.au/howto.asp?howto=7 Just go slowly and don't use too much polish. It should be an even haze, don't use too much or it will be a bitch to rub off (even with the polisher). If some areas are really bad just spend a little more time on them with the polisher, you should only need to go around the car once... twice if its really bad. Meguires yellow wax is pretty good. A good canuba one will make it nice and shiny, just read the back of them and make sure you can use them with the polisher. Let the wax sit for 20 mins or so (or out in the sun if its not raining) and then rub it off. Your not the same guy that posted this on OCAU are you? You might wanna read through the 'Consolidated car detailing thread' for heaps of tips

You probably won't get them out by hand polishing, but if you do its gonna take you a very long time. Supercheap have a $20 orbital polisher on sale atm (atleast in WA they do) which will do wonders. If you use that with a fine cutting compound they should disapeer. You may need to go over the really bad areas twice. Finish it off with a decent wax and buff

Might be worth pulling it apart. Does the window go down still? My passenger window would go up but not down, but the drivers side controls worked fine with it. I opened up the switch and the contacts just needed cleaning. I'm pretty sure they run a fair bit of current through them so they tend to arc and corrode over.

Try here - http://www.police.wa.gov.au/MediaandPublic...CameraLocations I had the detector really low on the windshield, not on the dash but say 5-10cm above in the middle. How have you got yours mounted? Try getting done for 22 k's over along waneroo road, in an straight overtaking lane, going down a hill, on double demerits

I'm fairly sure its only Ultimate is the only pump fuel garanteed to be 98RON. Optimax and Vortex specify a 96RON minimum IIRC... basically there standard premiums fuels that are better filtered

Yep, recieved it last friday with no import tax Found a multinova today to play with The first time I got warned well in advance. On my way back home I went past the multinova twice again (for good measure) and the detector only went off when the camera was aimed directly at me. Second time there was a car in front of me. The third time was pretty clear. It seemed to pick it up at full strength just after I passed the camera which suggests to me it could be an aiming/position issue with the detector. Basically its doing a great job of detecting petrol stations and shopping centers at the moment I'm sure I could get it working alot better if I changed its position and maybe tinkered with its internals but I'm just going to sell it and buy a better one. I'm thinking bel this time

An injector perhaps? Won't work if your maxing them out though

I decided to paint my window washers cause all the paint had pretty much come off them. In my infinite wisdom I left one of the nuts in the engine bay and drove off I got my budget calipers out and the nut is 9mm inside, I tried bunnings and the closest that have is a ~8mm which won't go on (even with brute force). Anyone know of somewhere else that might do that kind of thing or has a spare? I must be having the shitest week ever