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fr0st
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Everything posted by fr0st
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Radar detector detectors do exist and work. The expensive radar detectors can detect the detector detectors and turn themselves off... others are just very hard to the detector detectors to find because they emit very little radar (all detectors will emit a little). I've heard of people putting in valentine 1 detectors and getting a stealth install. There worth a grand or so installed so it depends on how keen you are not to get caught.
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Really? f#$% What model did you try out? I checked the reviews and similar models are on par with everything else in that price range (besides the bel detectors, but I don't fancy selling my left nut for one). It only cost me $140 delivered... I could pawn it off for that easy
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Does anyone have a reccomendations on what bulbs give a nice blue off angle glow ala european cars?
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I don't plan on making it produce any more than 200kW. Things like a R33 turbo, turbo back exhaust etc. are planned for the future, is it likely to be a problem with that sort of power? If its going to be too restrictive on a RB20 I'm probably not going to be able to sell it :s
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really? my bad I've never seen one being used once (I've only been driving two years though...). I can see how country cops might still have them but everytime I've seen a handheld in Perth its been a lidar. Considering I got flashed yesterday doing the speed limit, I think there worth it. I was right next to another car so if they managed to get my plate they would have definately got my fellow law abiding motorists plate aswell in the same shot. Alot of court cases in other parts of the world (including aus) have ruled in favor of the motorist when it comes to handheld radar. They've been proven clock trees at 70km/h in some cases... The beam width of radar can't be focused anywhere near as much as lidar so at a distance its very unreliable. Multinovas are short range so there usually accurate... unless you next to another car Whether you can justify the money is up to you.... but I'd definately look at eBay before Perth dealers
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I got no idea what type of cooler it actually is. It has something written on the top so I'm guessing its not from a GTR. Its dark now so I'll look tomorrow. The car isn't exactly high powered. Its stock except for a 3 inch cat back. Could the cooler be worth selling and buying something else? I have a mate that did his R32 who said he'd be able to help me out if I get stuck. I'd rather have at a crack at it myself... theres no better way to learning than by doing
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The guy I bought my car off gave me an FMIC and piping. I got some free time in the next few weeks so I want to attempt to put it in myself. I have access to all the tools (and I don't mind buying a few if I need to) so that shouldn't be a problem. I havn't had a chance to take my front bar off yet to have a look where everything fits yet... I'm not even sure if I have the entire piping set The longest pipe has a nipple welded onto it and a spot for a BOV. I'm not entirely sure whether I need to use it. The stock IC already has piping to the front corner of the car, can I just extend that to the new IC and not worry about the huge pipe? Also, what does the FMIC mount onto? Am I going to have to fabricate something to hold it on or is there a standard mounting for it? Last thing, if is gonna fit with the standard front bar? I still have the air conditioning radiator installed (though it doesn't work ) so I'm a little worried I might need to cut into the front bar to get it to fit. The car is a 1993 R32 GTS-T type M Any pearls of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Cheers -Matt
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They do work... but mainly on speed cameras WA cops don't use handheld RADAR anymore. The lidar they use will get your speed almost instantly if you don't have a jammer (fairly sure there illegal...)
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Remapping An R32 Ecu Done And Done!
fr0st replied to secondhandninja's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Is there any online info on RB20DET remapping? All I've found is the silvia remapping site about the SR20 ecu -
Just a little update, I just bought this after a bit of paypal drama (which cost me $50 ) Anyway, it was $142 Aus shipped to my door. Fingers crossed that it actually gets here... and I don't get shafted by import tax
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1. People who try to weasel out of accidents that are there fault 2. Speed cameras 3. Unmarked police cars 4. Riced up Hyundai's (especially excels) 5. Hyundai's in general 6. the 'soccer mum'
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your links are broke
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Curtin, 2nd year of electronics and communications Havn't done much on fourier... but it sounds like too much work
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I can't wait till they get to this part of my engineering degree I know a little already so I'll share the love... Multinovas can't be jammed because at the distance they take the photo its almost impossible to flood them with noise. Because there narrow band it makes it difficult. At a distance handheld radar can be jammed however. The reflections are really weak and you can basically flood the cops radar with your own. Since your transmitting your own signal you can modulate it to show whatever speed you want on the cops radar. As you get close however you lose your effectiveness and they get your true speed. It does however give you heaps of time to break... and its also highly illegal Jamming lasers is fairly easy aswell. Since they always aim for the numberplate or headlights you throw heaps of infra leds in there modulating randomly in the general direction of your favourite law enforcement officer. Most of the new lidar guns detect jamming so they'll just ping you anyway with an even bigger fine In short is not really worth jamming except lidar (laser) where you can jam piggy enough so you can slow down and then let him get a proper reading. It's far from foolproof though... I wouldn't want to risk getting caught doing it
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http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleID=2003 Theres a few other free reviews on that site depending on what price range the detector you want is. The other two ebay sellers got in contact with me and only one would make the detector as a gift. But the one who wouldn't said they mark the value really low so you pay next to no import tax.
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The SAFC wouldn't directly control the ignition timing... it'd just be one of the effects of bending the AFM signal. For example, you can't say you want an extra 5 degrees advance and get it with the SAFC. You have to increase the AFM adjustment and hope you get extra timing to suit the extra fuel going into the engine. The e-manage does though as a optional ignition harness.and from the sounds of it not very well. IIRC when you reset the factory ECU it has the timing advanced by default and retards it slowly when the engine knocks. So if you reset it with higher octane fuel you can benefit from advanced timings. But if you don't reset the ECU it will gradually increase the timing over a few tanks of fuel to suit the higher octane.
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When your a uni student, even that hurts Anyone wanna give me some full time work during the holidays? Is modifying the timing really nessecary? The S-AFC doesn't do it. If you reset the factory ECU once the have the A/F set right the ECU should adjust the timings for you, athlough on the conservative side. I could always tap the knock signal aswell and just feed the ECU a knock signal when I want it to retard the timing... but I think thats just asking for trouble. If I was going to do the ignition I may aswell make my own ECU. Seems like too much work considering I could probably remap the factory ecu without to much trouble. Come to think of it... if I just make a datalogger I could trace A/F and knocking to a standard R32 map if someone hook me up with the technical specs for the maps. All the posts I've seen about re-maps of the standard ECU just seem to be generic... not actually tuned. The only info I've found is from the silvia tuning site, which is all SR and CA related. Has anyone got any links with more info?
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Well I've already read up on most of the techniques... I really just somewhere to practice. but if your organising a performance day later on, do I need to do the beginner defensive coarse as a prerequisite first? It's probably better I do it anyway from a safety point of view before I give (legal) racing a go
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I was talking it over with the folks and it looks like I'm getting a driving coarse for my 19th birthday My normal driving is excellent but, coming from driving a FWD corolla, if the back starts sliding out I'm screwed. I havn't needed to test my wet road heavy braking skills yet so I'd like to do that aswell. If they teach me to drift it'll be a bonus... but I'm not expecting them to Has anyone done any that really enjoyed and learnt alot from?
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Well the main reason is I can't afford $600 for a S-AFC This way I get to learn more about my car and it gives me something to do so I don't go crazy. Definately a PIC The way I figured I'd do it is to have the uC read the sensor voltages and do the map lookup in its internal eeprom. Output that to a digital to analog converter and use opamps to add and subtract it from the AFM signal. The 16F877 is probably what I'm going to use. It's fairly overkill though. If I can find a smaller pic with integrated DAC aswell as ADC I'd use that to simplify things... but they seem to be fairly rare. I'd make it for a RB26 if someones willing to give me one I think the only difference between them is the AF meter. The RB26 uses a differential or dual AFM I think... either way it uses three wires instead of two to read it. RB20 and RB25's have a standard 2 wire AFM's so it'll work for both. Cheers for the input
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I suppose this thread belongs here... Anyways, a little about myself. I'm doing my engineering degree in Electronics and Communications. Since uni bores me shitless and I got holidays in 2 and a half weeks, I'm gonna need a project. I was looking through the manuals for the Greddy e-manage and Apexi S-AFC and was pleasantly supprised that it was well in my skill level to make my own version Basically, all they do is take the RPM and AFM signals, add or subtract from the AFM voltage based on a map and feed it to the ECU in place of the actual AFM reading. Am I correct here? To tune it properly it would need to be able to measure the A/F ratio which is also a fairly easy task. All thats left really is the ability to trace lean/rich conditions to different parts of the fuel map and have the ability to modify it in real time. Since I don't really want another guauge/display, the tuning would need to be computer based. So in summary AFM correction O2 sensor reading Computer based map tracing and logging Real time map editing Am I missing anything out or is there anything that would be usefull to have? When I get it working I'll probably be either giving out the plans and software for free, so its all for a good cause At the moment the parts to build it shouldn't be more than $100 using off the shelf stuff. Any input would be great Cheers -Matt
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I just filled up yesterday after a weekend of country driving. 470km's and the fuel needle was sitting just under 1/4. I went to fill it up expecting to put in 50 liters or so... 42.5 L Thats like 9L/100km... I could have made it to 600km at that rate. For a car thats done 150k Km's, its a fuel efficiency beast
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Thats true but they do display what band they've detected when they beep (even the cheap ones). You still might not have time to look over at the detector and then brake when it goes off. It's just be a matter of changing the LED to a brighter one for Ka or something along those lines to alert you better. I'm still yet to head back from the sellers of the two higher end cobra detectors. If they send them unmarked I'll be getting one for sure. Otherwise I'll give the cheapy a go.
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I set my trip meter to zero I put in a full tank. When I filled it up next it took 42 liters and did 410km's. So that works out to 10.3 liters/100km. It supprised me cause I did a fair bit of spritied dirving. Whats a R32's fuel tank size? 60l? Thats like 580 km off one tank if I drove all the way to empty. Probably get to 540 -550 before the light comes on. Car is stock except for the cat back exhaust.
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I did a bit of research and found http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cobra-6-Band-Radar-...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/COBRA-ESD-9210-RADA...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cobra-Laser-Radar-D...1QQcmdZViewItem I sent a message to the seller of the first item asking about import tax and he bacically replied "There is tax for radar detectors coming into australia, so we mark them as headphones" So for roughtly $70 aus you can have a radar detector delivered to your door. Obvously its not going to be great quality but for 70 bucks I would be willing to give it a go. The last link looks quite good aswell, but I'm not sure on the import tax situation so I'll look into it. Cheers for your suggestions guys