fr0st

Whats everyones thoughts on o-rings + standard gasket vs a metal head gasket? Just got quoted $300 to get o-rings put in, I could probably get a metal head gasket with built in rings for near that

Check http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20&start=20 for pictures of copy manifolds AAC Valve fits. There are holes for vacuum fittings on the bottom for things like BOV's, MAP sensors and brake boosters. You'll need a longer throttle cable from what I've read. Thats about it I beleive

I wouldn't really class it as the same risk as using crappy injectors. It's the exact same dimensions as an original Greddy plenum, its only the casting quality that differs. If they went to the effort of sticking them in a CNC machine and cleaning them up I'm sure they'd be worth another $500 at least... but they don't so thats where the dremel comes in. The manifold isn't under a lot of thermal stress like the exhaust side either. To me, the risk is acceptable. Pics of an original would be awesome, I'd hope they'd be a fair bit better than a copy.

I'm doing the same thing for my RB30, I got my plenum today and it was what I was expecting for $250 delivered. I took to a few of the ports with a dremel and they came up beautiful, the only thing I'm worried about it not being able to reach into the back of the plenum to clean it up a bit more. I'm getting the face machined flat because it will definitely leak if I put it on as is. Some pics -

I'm up to the stage in my RB30DET project where I need to go pick up a RB30e but, since its my first engine project, I don't know how I should go about transporting it. I have access to my old mans 4wd Prado which has plenty of room for the engine. The main thing I'm worried about is how to get it in there. Can 4-5 guys be able to lift and engine into the back of a car or onto a car stand or am I going to need an engine crane? I don't want to rock up and not being able to move the thing or get it back out of the car again Thanks -Matt

The old Vortex 98 was actually rated at a minimum of 96 ron whereas BP Ultimate was rated at a minimum of 98 ron. I havn't seen the new stuff yet, only vortex branded 95 ron

SK, I get your point about having a progressive throttle response, which makes complete sense when you think about it. Kind of makes me wonder why I didn't put more thought into it before Question is now, what do you do to get a more progressive throttle response? I guess it mainly comes down to the turbo and tuning. I'm guessing its better to go on the smaller side for turbine housings? Nice footage Roy, I've watched it about 10 times now Go the 26/30

Slide, Have you got any dyno sheets or results for any of the turbo's from clients? I was going to PM you again about results for a T40 and T45 on an RB30DET but since there's a thread I'm sure everyone else would be interested in the results as well. Even a full boost RPM and peak power figure would do me fine. Thanks

Its got a simulated narrow band output, you just solder that wire where the output of your stock sensor is. The only thing I'd be worried about is how last the sensor's last but it should be the same, if not longer than the stock type.

http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm 253 + postage for the controller and sensor. You need a laptop for datalogging however

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_engines http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volumetric_efficiency http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equivalence_r...uivalence_ratio

Thread revival time! I was going to start a new thread but this one already has some good info (and I don't think cruiseliner will mind... ) I've started on my RB30DET build and I'm still a bit unsure of what kind of power goal I should be looking at. My R32 isn't a dedicated track car so no cages or interior stripping, it's basically just for fun and some autocross/track days. 300rwkw is the goal I've set myself so far but is it going to be practical? It would be quite easy to go higher but if all I'm going to get is wheel spin there would be no point. Since the whole idea of the RB30 is to get a high average power, should I be aiming for a 'lag free' 260rwkw or go for higher power (350rwkw?) and a narrower, but still usable, power band? For the sake of the argument, the car would have the whiteline package (including sway bars and new bushes all round) and 16 inch semi's. I think SK used to run a R32 GTS-T with a RB31DET with the same package, I even saw mention of 420rwkw in my searches. I'd love to know the traction problems he's had if he feels like imparting some wisdom

Its all fun and games till a WRX breaks first gear from a decent launch Seriously though... why street race? Are your penis's really that small?

Thanks, exactly what I wanted to know

I'm about half way (money wise) on my mission to collect parts for my RB30. I managed to pick up an RB25DET head for a decent price except I have to fit it up to an R32. I have a greddy copy plenum on its way which takes care of the intake manifold but I need injectors now Anyone know if you can use the RB20 fuel rail and some GTR injectors instead of going to the side feed RB25 setup? Anyone ever measured the spacing between injectors on both?

Try 28 psi, then decrease until your 60 foot times aren't going down. Keep the fronts at normal or higher pressure to reduce rolling resistance. You may want to get someone else's opinion on this tho

I was under the impression that you don't get the money until the insurance company gets the money from the person at fault. I got hit by an un-insured driver in my last car and it took ages to get the damage fixed. I could have had it fixed straight away if I payed my excess and then have it refunded when the other party pays up or something. The insurance company only spoke to my parents (I was under there policy) so I wasn't kept very well informed.

Sorry to hear mitch I hope he has insurance, I'll start collecting sacks and doorknobs just in case he doesn't

I'll grab an Ex gear for an RB25 if not too late PM with bank details and I'll transfer asap

Someone put a lift kit and a CA18DET in one

Its because your running an AFM. The BOV is venting air thats already been measured so your car is running excessively rich and stalling. Only way to solve it is to get a MAP based ECU or plumb that sucker back.

I'm after a RB25de/det head for an RB30 build. I'd prefer a R32 RB25DE head but if you have anything let me know via pm or just post here and I'll contact you. Cheers

Put me down for a R32 GTS-T bar

But its a lot louder with the pod compared to the stock airbox which is designed to keep induction noise to a minimum

I've decided my RB20 is no longer going to cut it and I'm keen on breaking my engine building cherry The basic plan is a RB25DE head with GTR valve springs and a standard RB30e bottom end. The car (R32 GTS-T) already has a RB25DET box Just so I'm under no disillusions before I start to collect parts - Can a non rebuilt RB30E bottom end be expected to last at 270-300rwkw? Is a metal head gasket and o-ringing a requirement for this kind of power with some reliability? Can I skim the head (RB25DE/DET) a little to raise the compression closer to mid 8's without upsetting the quench zones? Likewise skimming the block to run a zero deck height? Is it worth replacing the bearings and rings to after market items or will something else break first (rods?) making it a waste of money? Will I need after market head studs like ARP's or will OEM do for this kind of power? I think thats about it... I know a lot of the reliability has to do with tuning but stock parts only last so long before they let go at high power levels. I'd honestly be happy with a responsive 250rwkw from a 'on the cheap' RB30 build but 300rwkw is my goal and probably the absolute limit for a R32 GTS-T anyway. I could probably do it from an RB25 but I want the extra torque to make a bit of a motorkharna weapon Thanks in advance for the advice