bombastic

I drooled over it for a good ten minutes If only I'd finished uni and could afford such a prize!

How much boost do you have to run to get 192kw? Seems like a lot from a stock turbo on a 2L. And it's still stock ECU too right?

Had an R33, sig fixed. Don't worry about scanning it, I'm probably after something that comes on earlier. I guess I was dreaming that an rb25 with this much power could spool up early :sorcerer: Thanks anyways!

Nevermind, didn't read carefully enough

Just to clarify... the FMIC is included in the price? Also, what sort of tyres? Interested to come and inspect but won't for a week or so.

What sort of fuel economy do you get? About what RPM's does the boost come on? Is it pretty sluggish down low? I wouldn't mind seeing dyno sheet if you've got it scanned. Cheers!

Front offsets 18X8.0 +33 225/40 R18 Could I fit spacers on the front to get closer to +40? Or is it the other way round? Like you said the rears are close enough but I'd be a little concerned about the fronts. Another couple of things... any idea how much these weigh? And do you know which 'model' the Maxxis tyres are? Sorry for so many questions... bit wary of buying something I know so little about

Thanks for the info! I've been warned by a friend about buying 2nd hand rim's this big... that warping can be a problem. That all it takes is a pothole or something and you can leak air and have to refill your tyres every week. So I guess my question is... have these rims ever met a gutter or a (large) pothole? Do they maintain air pressure?

How can I find out whether these will suit my R33 GTST? I don't know much about offsets... R33 are supposed to be +20 according to this site http://meggala.com/wheelsoffsets.htm

1995 R33 S1 R34 GTT SMIC Split dump/front + 3" exhaust Apexi panel filter Turbotech boost controller Power FC 189rwkw @ 12psi

When I got my R33 I was impressed by the fuel economy... 13L/100km, suburban driving. But I seem to get the same fuel economy on a highway, I thought it would be at least a little better. So I decided to test my O2 sensor with the above method. It seemed to oscillate between 0.3V and 0.6V when I held the revs at 2000. I think when I let it idle the range was more, like it went up to 0.9V I think, and as low as 0.1V. Maybe the reason I didn't see that kind of range at 2000rpm was my multimeter being slow? Do O2 sensors tend to just work/fail, or gradually deteriorate? I have a new intercooler, split dump/front, and cat to install, followed by a PFC... just wondering whether it would be beneficial to put a new sensor in before I have it tuned.

I can't seem to find the 4 bolts facing the ground. I found 2 facing the front of the car, underneath the grill. I found the 3 clips underneath the grill. Hmm... I couldn't get the 2 clips off on each side that were attaching the front bar to the guard... philips head just ate the plastic. Tried destroying them with some clippers but the plastic is too tough. Anyone know how to get the clips off without a philips head...?

SOLD

Hi, if it's not yet sold I will take it

The wing is the one pictured, right? Do you have any idea if it's a direct bolt on replacement for the smaller series 1 style? Also any idea how much $$ to respray?

Any big disadvantage in not having a hand controller for the PFC? Once it's tuned, I don't plan on fiddling with the timing etc. myself...

It was 7-8 before installing and 9-10 after installing. I was just going by the stock gauge. I was more thinking along the lines of if the gauge was stuffed, I didn't notice a stupid increase in power. Anyway, Mark (Turbotech) responded to my email within an hour to tell me what size bearing to use... thanks!

Yeah it's definitely not there... I asked him are you sure it didn't fall out and he said yes. And that was dumb, I'd forgotten how it worked... The sound is still terrible It sounds like my turbo has water in it or something. Hard to describe...

So my car started making a strange noise lately when I get on boost. A loud blowing noise, air escaping through somewhere. I had banged my exhaust and it started right afterward, so I thought I must have cracked the exhaust or otherwise put a leak in it. Today I put it in to get checked out, and I get a call from my mechanic saying that the exhaust is fine etc., but he pinpointed the sound to be coming from my turbotech boost controller. He opened it up and said there was no ball bearing - what the hell!? I can't think of any explanation for this... And so he reckons because the ball bearing was missing, then air was rushing out the little hole in the side of the boost controller which was making the noise. Although if there was no ball bearing then my boost should be hitting rediculous levels, but I certainly didn't notice it. I'm dumbfounded...

pm sent Do you mean to say that I shouldn't expect traction in 1st at high rpm's? I went for a ride in my mate's 200rwkw s13 and it had no problem to the redline. And I think I mentioned mine has no trouble if I have a passenger for a bit more weight. MajorSick also said 370kw and no problem with traction. So what do you mean? I'm pretty sure previous owner said it was aftermarket. He said something about the importer giving him a choice between a couple of setups... not sure exactly what was changed. So if you think it would help I will try to get a camera underneath it. When it stops raining of course... lost my garage spot

Can your sava's hold traction in first, and if so do you also have an RB25DET? If so then that would indicate my suspension is the cause of loss of traction.

Did anyone have to get new vacuum hose to install this? I kinda wanna leave the solenoid in the loop so I can have a switch for low/high boost. But between the t-valve nozzle, and the nozzle off the pipe after the intercooler, there is only about 0.5cm of hose. Ie. the hose is like 8cm long, but the nozzles are taking up most of that, so there is no slack inbetween to install the boost controller. I couldn't get the hose off the t-valve either, brute force would break the hose its so stuck on. Why is it so easy for everyone else >: Edit: Got bro to help me. I wasn't using enough force. Another happy customer, works perfectly (at the original setting anyway which appears to be about 9-10psi - I'm not game to take it any higher without an FMIC)

Awesome, I'll shoot you a PM as soon as I ditch the flu Sorry for the late reply, something seems to be up with my thread subscription. Is it possible that the tyres just suck? If you're referring to the shockabsorber 101 thread, can't say there was much to learn there other than that some shocks are better than others. Otherwise please enlighten me My mechanic is very well respected, and seems to think it's OK, and "thats what you get". But this doesn't make it any more enjoyable to drive! Yeah imported, but from what the first aussie owner said to me, it had the suspension changed when it came into the country. I'll try. Mechanic did mention there is nothing to lubricate. Or maybe the car has had suspension that's too hard There is one nearby, sheesh for $14 might as well. Thanks all for your help! I'll consider what to do next after (if) I've been in siddr20's ride.

IIRC it was all in the suburbs/city. When I first did the mod I thought it was a fairly noticeable difference, now I'm just used to it, so I'm waiting on a turbotech boost controller to bump it up a little I don't see why performance should chew up heaps more fuel, unless you get on the boost every time you take off. Even then, you're still only accelerating to the speed limit and then cruising - what difference does it make if you burn fuel at a high rate for a small period of time (neglecting running rich on boost etc.), or at a low rate for a large period of time (like a grandma)? Either way, you should have a similar amount of energy being converted into motion and heat to get to cruising speed. Of course if the next set of lights go red then I can see how it'll be a big waste. Excuse my skewed and probably-wrong theoretical world view

I'm in Caringbah which is about half hour south of the CBD. Any idea how far you are?