bombastic

I had my mechanic come for a drive with me and he seems to think it's OK, and that "you get what you pay for" in a cheap car like this. But suspension shouldn't be squeaky like this should it...? Please someone take me for a ride in something with a good setup so I know what I am or am not missing out on!

I get 13L/100km with plenty of boosting, stock apart from 3" turbo back exhaust & solenoid boost mod.

Is this easy to find out? I suppose I could jack it up and get under it to read off some info... Sorry I'm so clueless.

I'll just say first that I'm used to driving a corolla around, launching at traffic lights, cruising over speed bumps at 40kph, and taking any corner hard. So I'm basing what a nice ride feels like on that. Maybe I'm just not used to stiff suspension, but my R33 just isn't "comfortable" to drive around in. I can feel every bump in the road, and most traffic lights I can't launch from because off the uneven-ness in the intersection. Not to mention the suspension is squeaky. Panels inside the car rattle a fair bit over small bumps. Edit: Also should have mentioned that I can't hold traction in 1st after about 5000 rpm. If I have a heavy passenger or more, yes, but not just by myself. My tyres are SAVA INTENSA 235/45ZR17 94W, there's some other stuff on there as well not sure if it's important, "Tread 180 Traction A Temperature A" My dad just bought a new Golf GTI, and to me the suspension feels incredible. It's stiff but at the same time very comfortable ie. I don't mind the stiffness. Which got me to thinking maybe mine isn't up to scratch. Recommendations? Should I take it to an expert and get it checked out? I'm a bit wary of taking it somewhere and being told I need to replace things regardless of whether they need replacing. I'm a noob and I'm sure people will pick up on that! Anyone near the sutherland shire feel like taking me for a drive around the block in a skyline with a good setup so I know what I'm missing out on? Thanks!

I tried that link and I get an error: "Sorry, the link that brought you to this page seems to be out of date or broken." Edit: Oh, so that means I gotta be a NSW member to read that thread? Hmm...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...100&t=49722

Suppose AF ratios were set at optimum levels on a dyno, and you have the datalogit equipment. Suppose I have the brains to interface with the software. Rather than having a passenger adjust the ignition, have a laptop do it for you. Start with the base map and let it advance until a certain level of knock is detected, then back off and lock the value. Plug the laptop in every time you drive. Drive it like a hat driver. Drive it like you just got your L's. Drive it like a soccer mum. Drive it like you stole it. A few insurance claims and gaol sentences later all the points on the map will be perfect. Now why hasn't anyone done this yet? I don't see why it can't be done, since if I tune it myself I'm just going to be applying the same algorithm. Yes, I am a robot.

My mechanic is very sick at the moment and won't be able to help for a while. I've been meaning to ask him who I should use in the mean time. My dad used to be really into cars... but that was pre-injection/computers etc so don't know how much he will be able to help. I should have mentioned the timing belt has already been done, but not the idler or pulley bearings (note I have no idea what these are). That's the only reason I'd need to find TDC right, to do the timing belt? I have access to a lot of tools (my dad is a toolmaker) and should have use of a hoist shortly. Not sure about compression testing. I don't mind getting all the tricky stuff done by someone, but I just want to learn a thing or two and save some money. Speaking of which, should I try to get most of the parts myself and supply to the mechanic? E.g. those bearings which I know nothing of are hundreds of dollars for authentic Nissan ones, or under a hundred for NSK equivalent (thread). What would you suggest for doing research - just reading the forums/net? Or maybe there is a book/manual I could get that would be helpful? Thanks!

Sorry to dig up an old thread... but I have my 100k service and I want to do it proper. Can you or anyone suggest how much of this would need to be done by a professional, and how much could be done by a noob? And by noob I mean I have changed my oil and oil filter once.

I only got my car a couple of months ago (98000km), and when I got it I knew it needed the timing belt done... but I didn't know anything about bearings. I had it done at Caringbah Automotive Repairs & Service in Taren Point. The invoice I got says "T1040 Timing belt" but nothing about bearings. So after reading this thread I'm thinking it should have been done, and if so is the mechanic to blame for not knowing to do it? I've just done over 100000km so I guess I should get it sorted. Wonder what other surprises are waiting to empty my wallet...

Yeah the wire I thought was cut was just antenna, so I doubt anyone tried to take it, that was just my first assumption without knowing what the wire hanging out was. Just car insurance were so useless when I rang. They just said make sure it has an immobiliser which meets Australian standards, and so I told them what model my system is and they said "sorry can't say ask your local autobarn". Anyhow if I don't manage to find the reprogramming sequence (if one exists), then I am taking it to a guy to reprogram on tues.

Just noticed this morning when I unlocked my car, it didn't beep and flash at me like it normally does. The panic button still causes the alarm to sound. But if I shut the boot, or shut a passenger door, to test the alarm - and it doesn't go off, when normally it would. So I opened the bonnet to inspect the unit and I find a wire hanging out that looks like it's been cut (I don't remember it being there before, but I can't say I looked before). I tested the immobiliser by unlocking the car, leaving it for 30 seconds to let it enable, and then trying to start the car, and it didn't so I assume the immobiliser is still good. I was working last night and my car was parked on the street, so maybe someone tried to take it, but then maybe I'm just paranoid and the rain did it or I dunno... At this point I don't know what to do... obviously I don't want to disclose what kind of alarm system I have, but I don't know anything about it, it was there when I bought the car. I'm thinking I should solder the wire back together at least... Edit: I rang a local alarm installer and he said since the manufacturer of my alarm has gone broke then will likely need to replace the alarm system... sif! Edit2: Yeah, I shoulda thought before posting. The wire is an antenna. And apparently it needs to be "reprogrammed" which will cost me $50. Don't see how it could just lose its memory like that... and whats the stop it happening again...

Thanks for filling me in! I'll probably get a pfc when I have some disposable income... I'm too poor at the moment to spend money on it

Nice mod, took the car for a test run before the mod and after and can see the difference on the stock meter. Definitely feels like its pulling harder lower down. This may be a dope question, but would it be beneficial to reset the stock ECU so that it might adapt to this change?

I've noticed the same think happening in my R33 gts-t. Seems to happen between 2000-3000rpm, but once its warm its gone. I figured the clutch must be on the way out... it seems the rev's increase, but there is less acceleration, and then it starts pulling again after a certain rpm's... Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm wondering if anyone else wants to have a crack at this?

The manual doesn't specify... this would be good to know. It would probably be better to replace the turbo than have it rebuilt, no? Few hundred for a used one, hate to think how much labor would be for a rebuild...

I've got an R33 GTST s2, stock except for exhaust. It's done 100,000km. This only happens if I boost it a little bit (i.e. the turbo gets hot, I assume), and then I let it cool down some, and put the throttle down 'enough' to get some air going through the turbo (say 0psi or more on the boost guage, I guess). It might only take a few minutes of idling to get 'cool enough' to make the noise, or I could have left the car off for an hour and start it up, and it's there. The noise is a high, constant pitch whine. It goes away once the turbo warms up again. I've asked mates, nobody seems to have a clue, and searches didnt turn up anything. Help much appreciated

Yeah I'm just trying to save some money here, if possible... Even running 95 would save a bucks at the pump. 98 is about $1.40-1.50 atm in my area (south Sydney).

The manual I was given for my R33 says "Unleaded fuel with Research Octane Number 91 or higher". Does anyone have a manual that says otherwise? If the manufacturer says 91, then whats the prob? Surely they wouldn't tune them for 98 and then advise running 91... By the way the only thing that's been done to mine is exhaust. Boost is stock.