Rancher

Sorry guys. I would rather pick the parts up from Brisbane. I dont want to deal with aust post/delivery. Thanks anyway.

Item: Need, The front pipe, Elbow for the turbo, Crossover pipe with the BOV, Pipe from the turbo to the SMIC. Location: Anywhere. Will pick up from Brisbane/GC area. Item Condition: Any, so long as the pipes have no holes or huge dings in them. Price and Payment Conditions: Dont wanna pay too much, so throw me what you have and how much you want for em. Pictures: Would help. Contact Details: PM me. Or something on this thread. Will be coming to brissy this weekend so depending on what you have, I'll pick the parts up this weekend.

Bump again.

Bump, still for sale.

Bumping, comon would suit any car with an RB20 in it!

Item: RBE20 plates. Black with gold writing. Slim line front. US style rear. Location: Stanthorpe, QLD 4380. Item Condition: Brand new, never fitted to car. Reason for Selling: Selling my baby, Cant really put these plates on a Monaro. lol Price and Payment Conditions: $525 ONO. Contact Details: PM or ring me. 0434 265 614 after 5PM m-f.

I did. Didnt help anything at all though. Ive taken it off and just run that pipe straight to the actuator.

It is a turbo motor. Yeah the coolant has been bleed through. No problems with that anymore. It stays a nice temp. She just wont boost... It sounds like (Cause I live in the sticks, I dont have an exhaust on it, or a bonet lol) 4500RPM you can hear the turbo but only reads on the gauge as 1PSI... then at about 5 it sorta changes note... The wastegate is not opening. I have the pipe off to check that.. I'm getting frustrated lol. I'm sure even if it was stale fuel it would hit boost harder then 1PSI...

I now have a SARD rising rate FPR in there, the heater is in a circle because like i said. There is no pipe for the coolant return. I'm running with no bonet on atm so I dont really see I drama. Nor is it pinging atm. I thought the NA and turbo AFM were the same? that the only reason Ive used it.

More problems.... I just took her out for a drive... Wouldn't come on boost. She warmed up and stalled. Wouldn't start. I have a theory that the NA FPR that I have used is too different. I'll plug my SARD rising rate in (At what PSI should it be set at at idle?) And the stalling seamed to be caused by the coolant temp sensor. Perhaps the coolant return line I have going to the heater hose (I have the heater hose in a circle, no heater) is registering as flamin hot and its killing the motor. Can people confirm my theory? Any idea's on where I could plumb back the coolant return for the turbo? It DOES NOT have the stock return line for some reason. So don't say that lol. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me. Ive pored thousands into this, I'm losing motivation to fix it. Help me!! Heck, I'll pay for meals, accommodation etc for someone to come out and help me!

Id be careful with no cat too. It can be up to a $10,000 if you don't have one. Id put one on... lol.

Yeah I brought the car with a non-turbo RB20DE in it. I brought it for the sole purpose of putting an RB20DET in it. Dont ask me why the guy I brought it off put on nin-turbo one in it lol. Ive fixed the problem by putting a turbo one in. Gonna go have a play with the CAS now. I'll let you know.

AFM is plugged in, but it was the one that I was using with the non-turbo motor. Green label. Hotpipe, no intercooler, straight from turbo to manifold. Running low boost. I'm thinking that perhaps the fuel has gone stale, and the timing is off? edited in main post as well.

So I finally got my RB20DET into my S13, wired up and what not. The problem I'm having now is she doesn't seem to want to hold the revs. like, She'll rev up past 3. But when I hold it there, it seems to drop in revs cough a little then go back up to 3. Blowing dick loads of black smoke on 3 as well. I have a vid, but I just have to post it on youtube to show my problem. Any idea's? I still gotta get the clutch to work, but I'm still a little worried about taking her out for a drive for the first time. Standard injectors, Hotpipe (Untill I find someone who will custom make my intercooler piping) No exhaust on it untill I can be bothered. Standard turbo and actuator. AFM is plugged in, but it was the one that I was using with the non-turbo motor. Green label. Hotpipe, no intercooler, straight from turbo to manifold. Running low boost. I'm thinking that perhaps the fuel has gone stale, and the timing is off? I suppose I'll hook up the boost guage and see if its coming onto boost. The blow off valve seems to release air though, so I'm sure that the turbo is actually spooling. Please help!

Pretty straight forward. You might have to take the cams out to reach the bolts though. Do you have the alen key socket thing? I dont remember the size of it. I think like, 10 or 12MM. Remember to mark the cam caps so you know which order they go in!

Bump, I need more advice. there doesnt appear to anywhere to put the return line, so ive put it on one of the heater hoses. is this sufficient?

where the heater pipe is? on those ones?

As the topic suggest, I'm building my RB20DET, I'm putting the turbo in, I know where the oil return and pick up goto, and where the coolant pickup comes from. But I'm unsure as to where the coolant return goes to. it looks like it goes around the back of the motor... HELP!! Urgent!

Hi.. I'm pretty pissed off atm, nothing is lining up with this motor, and now Ive discovered I'm missing a million bolts. I need detailed pics of coolant in and return lines, and the oil in and where the heck the return line goes. Mine isnt lining up with anything. just goes to a void spot on the block... So much for getting it up and runnign this weekend.. Please help me!!

Will the car/ecu/turbo function without the boost solenoid? I need an answer quickly!! lol

The reason its polished is so that sun light bounces off it, not soaking with heat. Painting it will cause it to not work too well, and heat soak faster then if it were polished. People might like the look of it being out there, but still. Black mesh might be ok, but could take away the cool air being passed through the intercooler when the mesh gets hot. IMHO leave it polished, and not behind mesh.

Heavier valve springs, solid buckets, bigger cam in just the head. though those mods can cost a fortune. what kinda money are you wanted to spend will determine what mods you can do. forgies and stuff to start things off, I suppose.

does it come with EVERY pipe from turbo to manifold? if so I'll get my brother to pick it up.

I'll take a set (Only if they are matching) PM me, I'll pay ya on friday, freight aswell. Cheers man!

Thats what mine said aswell. Except for things like the boost thing, which I'm sure it can live without. Are there any other differences I should know about? I sorta need to get this thing running sunday arvo, lol. So... Yeah.