Rancher

Hi all, I need a SARD fuel pressure regulator adapter plate to suit a standard fuel rail on an RB20DET. I need it quite soon, sent to me. Please SMS or PM me. 0434265614. Thanks all!

Hello! As topic says, is there a wiring difference between the DE and DET ECU pinouts? I'll replacing the RB20DE in my S13 with an RB20DET next weekend, and I really dont want too many drama's. Please let me know, and other possible problems I might run into on saturday.

Ahh, just move the CAS to the right spot. now I have it. no gravel... And bugger the mechanic. I know what I'm doing.. just that part sorta stuck me. Thanks for the help!

Hi! I'm putting my RB20DET together, and I'm about to do my timing. Ive heard of people talking about BTDC. My question is, are you talking about the harmonic balancer being 15 degrees BTDC? not have all the marks on the timing belt line up? I dont understand this. I dont really wanna get this wrong, I want the motor to go in shmic! Please help!! Photos would really help if anyone could!

Is that wet or dry thread? I know this is an old thread....

So, I have an RB20DET in my S13. The tacho in the dash doesn't work so I decided to get myself a monster tacho and shift light. Before you all bag me out, I like it I had another tacho in there with a small diode and 12v to make the other one work. It worked perfect. The drift style one that I have now is very jumpy, I thought it might be the diode so I unplugged it, it stopped working all together. I have no idea whats wrong with it. or how to fix it. Just to summerize, 1991 S13, RB20DET Silver top, Tacho is jumpy. Thanks. *As has been pointed out, I'm in the wrong forums. They are both the same motors anyway.*

Hi! I have the tensioner and ideler. I'm unsure of the k's on them, but they came off a motor the guy told me only had 30,000k's on the clock. They still spin freely and dont appear to have any noises in them. I know these are about $600 from Nissan and more from Autobarn. So, I can give them to you for $50 plus postage. I think sounds very resonable considering the cost new. Let me know. Ring only 0434 265 614, Brendan.

Okie dokie. I have an RB20DET that I'm building. Ive already got most of the goodies in and together. I came to ordering my headgasket. (Stuff Autobarn, they want $500 for the same one I can buy off Slide for $250) Its a Cometic (Not a Tomie) one. Not sure of the width. But the bore on it is 80MM. Now the bore on the RB20DET is 78MM... Is this ok? Also. While I'm at it. I'm also looking at buying new cams. Not regrinding the stock ones. I want something thats not gonna make it a pig to drive. But I want something thats gonna be a decent upgrade in power. Something that brings boost on hard and fast. So anyone with cam's knowledge would be good to hear from. Or somewhere I can read about myself and get an idea. Thanks fella's.

Stock.. no not really. Some people get lucky and their motors handle abuse for a while. With some work though (Forgies, cams etc) they can be a weapon of a motor, up there with the best of them. I'm currently building an RB20DET, Tomie cams (Still trying to find ones that suit my needs $600 for a pair) ACL race barings ($300) new rings and a hone ($400) new vavles and valve springs (no idea) other bits and pieces. And from memory on my RB20... it wouldnt start if the MAF wasnt plugged in.

10k for Nissan parts is flamin stupid. Considering most gaskets (Head, ALL manifold) only cost me $300 from Nissan at Springwood. Barings are only $200 for small, and big end barings.. from Nissan. An RB20DET R32 half cut is only $2400 An RB25DET R33 half cut is only $3200 Heck, forgies and a metal headgasket and what not would only cost $4000 in parts for the RB20DET. LOL at ECU not being plugged in properly... Your being taken for a ride man. Change workshops. Most Nissan's run rich from factory. Especially the turbo ones. It just prolongs engine life. I would suggest you goto another workshop to get a leakdown. Even RACQ can do it for you... with truthfull responses as they wont be doing an engine transplant. Honestly, I dont think there would be a thing wrong with your motor. You've just been told something by those scamming bastards, and your taking every noise you here like your motor is going to blow up. I STRONGLY suggest you change workshop to someone with a little more "Knowledge" and Truthfullness.

I dont know how the electronic water one hooks up, but for the oil press guage, you need a sandwich plate that sits between the block, and the oil filter. $30 from Slide performance. Its not going to be as acurate either. But not far off. I didnt think that the R32's had somewhere to put the oil press guage either?

A friend of mine a few years ago paid about $400 I *Think* but he had the gearbox out himself. Will probably be more if they have to take it out themselfs. Thats another way to do it Bubba. Tightening the bands certainly doesnt make it stronger. My mates box that had his done, lasted a week. But its becuase of a few other things that caused the death of it... aswell as belting it to chirp second -every- time lol.

Change your trans fluid. If this doesnt fix it, make sure there isnt a blockage in your trans cooler lines.

Yeah, more then likely the clutches will slip when you stand on the go peddle. The whole torque converter and clutches can be replaced. Its like servicing a gearbox basicly. Shift kits, Now there are several ways to shift kit an auto. One is where they tighten the bands in the G-Box, making it shift harder. Still an auto, but shifts way harder. You could chirp second easy as pie. Another one, which I'm not to farmilier with, so forgive my ignorance. Is to make it like a clutchless manual. No clutch, but you need to change the gears (1,2,3,D) if you pull up to the lights in D, when you try to take off its gonna stay in D. Not recomended if multiple are going to be using it. An example is, what most drag cars use. Centrivigul clutch I think they call it. Third is for the bogans who think its shift kitting. That is to buy the pro ratchet shift. So instead of going down 6 places to first, You'd have to go back and forth 6 places to first. If you know what I mean. Personaly, I would tighten the bands. Ive seen some Auto's that shift harder then a manual ever can.. and thats scary.

If you just replaced your timing belt, its that. Its too tight. Mine has been dowing it for ages. I love the sound it makes lol. I would losen it a tad though, it can put stress on the cam shafts and it can break them off. Ive heard of it happening to a few people.

Still all for sale, make an offer on things.

Bump, Everything still for sale.

Hi guys. I have a few items for sale, more to come in a couple of weeks. Also, In a few weeks I'll be replacing my RB20DE with a new RB20DET. So the whole motor will be for sale or parts. Info as follow for the RB20DE. Oil pump or oil pressure valve is having some problems so its not running at full oil pressure. RB20DE. It is running, and in the car now. Does not come with Gearbox, Altenator, power steering pump, AFM, Coils, Igniter, CAS. otherwise, everythign else is there. about 160,000KM's VLT water pump with about 30,000KM's New headgasket, all manifold gaskets, acid diped and what not to the head when it was off. About 10,000KM's ago. Manifold's all there. Parts for sale now. RB20DET silver top ECCS Cam Angle Sensor $100 RB20DET silver top ECCS Igniter $75 RB20DET silver top ECCS Ignition coils. Still have the coils inside of them. They almost look new. $30 each RB20DET silver top ECCS Starter motor $130 RB20DE silver top ECCS fuel pressure regulator $20 All prices ONO. Open to resonable offers. Parts will be posted at buyers expense from Stanthope. PM me. **Will not let me upload pics at all, so if you want a pic of them. Let me know and I'll email it to you**

No sticker on the AFM. All that info was on the little black thing. I thnk It may be like, the RB30 one. I dont know though

SO I picked up my new RB20DET last night. Jeebus... is all I can say. He told me that its only done 34,000k's, I was like.. Yeah sure. But after seeing it... The head is off cause he was gonna put a metal one between it. There are still cross hatching marks in the bore. It still has the original oil filter from factory!!! I cant get over that. I'm not throwing that away... lol. Anyway, I'm going through the awesome box of goodies I have, and I came accross this AFM. Its not the same as the one I have in my S13 (RB20DE) so I'm totaly confused as to what its from? It wont let me upload pics atm, so I'll just post the things on it. I'll post pics later on. 22680 58A00 AFH45 - 30 7Z10 HITACHI D

OK, I just got the Dump pipe. I still need the front pipe and an intercooler pipe. Or standard R32 side mount and piping. I would be there on saturday. Let me know.

Hi guys, I need these parts to be standard RB20DET stuff. And as cheap as posible. Dump pipe, down pipe, And a pipe that goes from the turbo to the intake. If it exsist's. or something I can use. PM me, with price. Must be in brisbane/goldcoast area.

Hi guys, So next saturday I pick up my nice new shiney RB20DET, alas, in pieces (head off). Apparently, it was imported by Hardcore, and has only done 34,000k's. I dont believe it, but for $500 for turbo, motor, ecu, all manifolds, and wiring loom, you cant complain. So anyway, I have decided to rebuild it with new things before I stick it in. I dont wanna have problems with it later on down the track. I am going to do head work to it. IE, port and polish, cam regring and maybe new valve springs and seals. I have a Tomei 1.8MM metal headgasket lined up for it, and some kinda new Oil pump (My oil pump on the last engine shat itself, I dont want that again). I am gonna give it a light hone, and new rings aswell. So, Ive come to barings. Now, my father has told me he doesn't know the diff between stock new RB barings, and the ACL race barings. What is the diff? I mean, for an extra $150 bucks alltogether for the ACL main and big ends, its ok. But I wanna know, is it worth it over the stock ones? Any help would be good. Maybe tips on what other things I should be doing to it before I put it back together and into my S13. I don't want forgies, as I have no use for them.

Check ECU fault codes. Sounds like its R&R.