n_D

all sorted cheers

After a R32 cross member good condition. Sydney if possible .thanks Prefer phone o4o6o47727

yeh my mates told me it was quite loud when i planted it. perhaps sr20s are quieter. had a cop test mine at 3500rpm, no issues.

In Sydney. Whats the condition of the motor? kms and such. Was it stock otherwise?

Upwards of $6k pending condition

After a damaged, written off etc R34 gtt. Driveline needs to be in good nick. Got cash o4o6o47727 -Dayne cheers

Ah wait just read what u said. I dunno man, as long as it meets emissions and noise limits it's no different to any other car. I'm going e85 so shuldnt be an issue. Running hks hi power silent too. Nice and quiet downlow, loud up top

You can only engineer bovs plumbed back into intake. Same with wastegates, must direct back through exhaust pre cat. http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=491953&st=90&gopid=6825920entry6825920 That's my build thread if anyone is bored

this is my mess

Readem and weep lol. Got all the information I needed, some really useful stuff in here. First half is general faq, second half was a respone to my email. Mad engineering information. Read up Another question asked by email: "I need a certificate for a front-mount intercooler, pod filter and exhaust. What has to be done?" For a front mount intercooler: * Structure: The steel frame inside the front bumper bar, which is the primary crash structure, must not be cut in any way and any energy absorbing material such as a foam block between the frame and bumper shell cannot be removed. The plastic of the bumper can be trimmed for clearance, and the brace from the bonnet catch down in front of the radiator can be modified for clearance but must still be there and be adequate to keep the catch in place. Any holes added for pipework to pass through body panels must be reinforced with a washer shaped reinforcing strip around the edge of the hole, with the size and thickness of the reinforcing depending upon the size of the hole. * Clearance: Any part that moves must have operating clearance from any other component near it. Allowance has to be made for engine movement, which occurs in both directions from the rest position ~ one way under load forwards, the other way when backing off or reversing. Pipework must also have flexible sections to allow for relative movement between the intercooler and engine. * Emissions: All engine modifications have the potential to increase emissions. In particular, the installation of a large intercooler has the potential to cause an original EFI computer to see a low intake air temperature as a sensor fault and go into "limp mode". Consequently, all modified intercooler installations must undergo an IM240 emission test and pass the limits for the vehicle, or for the engine if it was built to a stricter emission standard. For a modified air cleaner installation: * If the intake air is not sourced in a manner comparable to original (usually isolated from heat from the radiator), the vehicle must undergo an IM240 emission test, as above. * Drive-by noise: Because a modified intake may cause more audible induction noise than the original air cleaner for the engine, if the vehicle is subject to ADR 28 or newer, the vehicle must pass the drive-by noise test for the relevant standard. For a modified exhaust system: * Stationary noise: The vehicle is required to pass a stationary (exhaust) noise test, where the limit is that prescribed for the year of the vehicle. * Emissions: Where a vehicle was originally fitted with a catalytic convertor, an original or equivalent functioning catalytic convertor must be fitted. Unless a non-genuine catalytic convertor is able to be shown to be equivalent by documented testing and quality assured manufacturing (which rarely happens), the vehicle must undergo an IM240 emission test, as above. Note that any mechanical engine or transmission modification that may increase the external noise from the vehicle when moving forwards (eg camshaft gear drive, straight cut gears in gearbox) also have to meet the above drive-by noise requirement. Hi Dayne. The vehicle has to pass the emission limits for the newer of engine or transmission. There is no requirement that the engine be newer than the vehicle, but if it is much newer, the emission limit that it was originally built to mat be stricter, so it's best to aim for around the same age as the vehicle. Provided that the adjustable arms are strong enough in their design and are either manufactured under quality assurance or are crack tested on all welds, they will be fine. With the brake upgrade, provided that it passes a PlateTronic test with brake proportionng that is appropriate for the weight distribution of the vehicle, they should be fine. As mentioned on Facebook in reply to your post, the vehicle will require an IM240 test to cover the emissions related modifications. It will also require noise testing to cover intake and exhaust mods. You'll also need a weighbridge ticket, preferably done on a PlateTronic brake test machine so that we have the weights of the 4 separate wheels. I'd estimate that the certification not including testing willl work out to around $750 to $850 depending on the details of the modifications. If there are other changes that require certification, such as seats or wheels, these would add around $50 to $100 to the certificate cost per other area of modification. Ayms Machiine Imran Subedar

Havent done a clutch myself but from removing one there isn't much to installing them. As long as u torque them up and align them straight

Already got R34 gt-t brakes front and rear. Removed ABS and doing braided lines too. My car was far from standard in SR20 form, im not new to the laws etc... I have a HKS hi-power silent exhaust, should pass the test. It passed with the SR20. Speaking to a guy with a rb25 s13, he recommends leaving stock/restrictive cat and exhaust, get the motor tuned to pass emissions. Get engineers certificate and blueslip then do a power tune. I dont really care about getting suspension etc.. engineered as I know places I can get a blueslip without them worrrying about the smaller things but don't want to push turning a blind eye to the engine swap. I'm lucky where I live too, there are not many police and when it comes to car knowledge they haven't much clue. I used to drive this thing daily for just under 2 years and only once was pulled over (speeding my fault, first offence in 6 years). Cop looked over car didn't bust me for anything The engine is what i'm most concerned about. AND I already have a pulsar daily. This car is going to be my weekend toy

Rephrase - legal enough haha mainly want engine swap legal. Will try and call some places again tomorrow, might have the day off.

Yeah I understand what your saying. But the wheels are boss lol. Planning to get some more flaring done to tuck them more. Im prepared to get dicked over small things but having the engine defected could be extremely painful. Driven the car for 2 years and only been pulled over once for a speeding ticket lol. I'm quite a modest driver, pick my moments. I want it legal though at the same time so I can enjoy my car.

Do u work at/with unigroup?

Yeah spewing because I never touched the clutch. I was always under the impression that they started slipping before they explode lol.

where its at atm. currently sanding and spraying engine bay

Still trying to work out the brand of the clutch, not much time to run it around to different places. The previous owners 'mate' put a new clutch in just before I bought it. Have a suspicion the flywheel wasnt replaced and unevenly wore the pressure plate. Pressure plate literally split apart at about 5000rpm. Bell housing shattered, took off bellhousing flange from block, blew up a new starter motor, bent input shaft into gearbox, smashed windscreen,put holes in the firewall etc.. Bent and snapped some bellhousing bolts. I think one of the pressure plate rivets let go which just fked everything. Car was making 200rwkw. Clutch was only 25,000kms old

Too late lol, engine mounts are already on their way from the US. My clutch exploded which took out my gearbox, engine, windscreen + bunch of other damage, took the opportunity to do an engine swap. I've always liked Silvias and always wanted a RB so it will be the best of both worlds. From what I've gathered the engine has to be the same age or newer and must retain all emission equipment to pass engineering. You have to retain the receipt for the engine and get it registerd with the RTA to show it was not stolen. So it sounds like sticking a stock rb25 in their would pass fairly easily but then to get piping etc.. made up for the factory setup then have it replaced again with new manifolds etc... Its so hard to find an engineer to talk to. I work alot and can't get onto them, phone or email.

Howdy, Im currentIy doing a 25det neo swap into my s15 Need some advice, anyone know decent wreckers to source the motor and gearbox. AIso does anyone know the process of getting it legal. Currently the car is out of registration but I can renew it before the 3months is up. Suggestions? Run it til i get caught? Someone told me i can just get the engine number transferred like a semi blueslip at a mechanics? Ive tried contacting engineers but cant get onto them. Cheers

Howdy, Looking for a Rb25det neo for my S15. I need a complete motor with loom, ecu, alternator, starter etc.. After one with low kms, good compression etc. Will pay accordingly. Also after a gearbox. Prefer sms on o4o6o47727

Bump

After a rb25det complete motor and gearbox. After a neo but if u have something interesting let me know. Don't really need turbo or loom. I want a motor in good condition and will pay accordingly. Cheers, Dayne o4o6o47727

pm sent!! keen

hey, looking for a abs diff from a 33. also after shafts. 04o6o47727 nothing welded or stuffed thanks