Neil

stuff shutting my pie hole bitch this will be fun,,,keep that clutch and you can join that club that never races the car just types shit and fixes it all the time. Wondering what Jenna had to say,,,I'll bet the word "dickhead" was used on a number of occasions. Heres are great way to waste a hole pile of money big tits. http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/4/cid/5478/id/13980/Default.aspx Cheers Neil.

This bloke typed it whilst I sat back and quietly laughed. Do yourself a favour big boy and go back to something a little more sane.

Love your side pipe mate and I would love to run one but isn't it to loud. Have you ever been pulled up for excessive noise?. I'm restricted to 95db at 30 metres at all hillclimb events. Cheers Neil.

Thanks Troy,,,I'm hoping to maybe take another few kilo's out now that I have this tool. Dimpling would be much better than what I'm using as cutting the thinner .9mm steel leave sharp edges. It's great when you cut thicker metal as it cut flush. Correct me if I'm wrong but don't you need the hole cut 1st and then dimple it?. Where and what diplling tool did you buy?. Cheers neil.

Jenna's always pissed off with you breaking shit,,,she would be even more pissed off if I bought one and build it properly on my tiny budget and handed you your arse. I don't really want a 4wd drive tiger,,,I love rear wheel drives,,,you can't beat the fun of rear wheel steer.

So on the weekend I thought I would finish removing as much weight out of the passenger door as possible. I still needed to keep some sort of structure so my window and locking stuff still worked properly. So that equates to a total removal of 3kg,,,nice,,,next weekend I'll attack the drivers door,,,a 6kg total loss in my eyes is fantastic. I bought this tool from Hare & Forbes at their sale 2 weekends ago and I had a problem with the 1st one,,,it only did 10 holes before the hydraulic ram gave up the ghost. A quick phone call and a new one was waiting for me when I turned up on Saturday. Great service indeed,,,, I could have bought one off ebay but for the extra money their service was impeccable. It cost me $229,,,usually it's $275. The 2nd one has cut 120 holes and loving it. Cheers Neil.

Cage looks great mate,,,now the crappy jobs start. Some poor bastard now has to sand every tube properly,,,prime them and then final coat them in your prefered colour. I subleted that shit job out to my favorite spray shop,,,he now hates me. I have some great looking tubes but some have dry coats which look bad. No way can you perfectly paint all the tubes to a price. The real pain in the bum is some poor bastard (probably you) has to get under the car and wire brush all those floor cage welds and seal them or Mr rust will take over. Cheers Neil.

I'm confused bitch,,, GM didn't make commodores in 1964,,,a quick google search says it was an EH Holden,,,should I plonk my drivetrain into one of those?.

Yep sure do mate "Mr Sheetmetal" 0754416099,,,Michael is his name. Now I was lucky that Dales doors were stiil there so he had something to go off,,, hope you have the same luck. Cheers Neil.

I had spoken to Yavuz of UNIGROUP fame about removing all the AAC valving crap and got a reply of "Please Neil we are having enough trouble controlling your off throttle stalling problems while you are using that stupid atmo blowoff valve as it is, go to a plumb back one and we can do something". So for the moment I'll keep what I have and when the time comes for an engine re-build I'll go with removing all that complicated non race car shit. You 2 are right,,,simple is great as there are way to many hoses that are a potential issue. I am running this turbosmart one by the way. Vee Port PRO BOVs

Another job I've had to tackle was my idle control valving (AAC bullshit). I've converted to a Plazmaman inlet manifold and the latest version has a seperate adaptor plate that does not bolt to the bottom as per the earlier versions. Initally I was pissed off because it made it very hard to plumb all the hoses and electrical connections. I'd actually cable tied it to the firewall but it looked very ugly. After speaking to Mark at Unigroup Engineering it turns out he was the one that told them to do it. With the older version you cannot adjust the idle without removing the AAC,,,how dumb is that. So after a lot of thought I came up with this. I got Duncan to extend the sets of 2 wires, I made the bracket, bought some hoses from supercheap and removed the redundant rear wiper control unit. Cheers Neil.

To be honest Wilson I'm not really sure,,,I had the m-spec front bar and lower factory lip on the car originally but I smashed the shit out of it so I never got to compare the two. I think it is lower but not by much. This one is fibreglass which is much easier to repair slight damage so thats a bonus and is flat bottomed so fitting the splitter was a joy. Trouble is fibreglass doesn't bend so one liitle off and you will be repairing mounting holes of which I've had to do 3 times. Cheers Neil.

Okay I stuffed up,,,my door trims were $330.00 not $ 430.00,,,I must be getting old and losing my brains. It took ages to remove the leftover rear section of the intrusion bar bracket and 200 grams it weighed,,,still have the front section to do,,,so that means total intrusion bar weight of 3 kilos' per side. Gotta do the drivers door next so 6 kilo's in total is a great weight saving. I really really want to be able to wind the windows up and down so one way or another I'm going to stick with glass. Thanks for the ideas though boys,,,gotta love different peoples takes in getting the whole door situation lighter. I have some doors coming so when I get some time I'll start playing with ways of flicking the motors. Cheers Neil.

If Handley beats all of you in Zed and Zilla's slow over-weight wagon,,,I'll vote for the Shooters party and kill you all.

Whilst Terry is as usual being his most helpful,,,no panel shop fits weathershields and if they did the guy fitting them isn't about to hand his litlle stash. I would go looking for an Aussie spec car that uses our style of weathershields and maybe buy the fitting kit. Heres a pic of what you need to look for. Cheers Neil.

The plazmaman one gives you a gain of about 8 kilowatts,,,what the front facing ones do though is clean up your engine bay. They make it a lot easier to get at injectors/coils/plugs plus a whole lot of other stuff. Cheers Neil.

Thought I knew that date from somewhere,,,Thats Independence day for the Yanks!!!. Whats on tiger,,,if it's just a track day then no as it's only 2 weeks before the Tamworth round which I should do well at.If it's one of those tarmac thingies you've been doing then yes I would risk the car (I have a navigator lined up). Ten rounds of the NSW hillclimb champs is a budget and time sucking series. Throw in the Aussie nats in WA and I'll be broke. Cheers Neil.

So you pull the strap to get the window down and I presume you push it back up to close the window. How quaint. Nice idea mate but butt ugly. Cheers anyway Neil.

I gotta tell you that I'm very very happy with them,,,for a race car they are perfect as they clear the roll cage intrusion bars beautifully. Michael did a great job. I attempted 3 times at making my own and I made crap. That all said they are not show car perfect but I never expected them to be. They cost me $430 excluding freight. Cheers Neil.

Yea no probs tiger,,,when ever we meet again. Cheers Neil.

Hey Mark,,,great to see you still hanging around. I'm not understanding the "Can you fit a window strap like the old cars had, I think the MG or porka had some". I've been scratching my ancient old head and you have me stuffed. I don't have a spare window motor to weigh but I did look at the specs of an older BMW today and they weigh 800 grams each,,,so with a lot of work I might lose about 1 to 1.4 kilo's all up.

Charles I bought a R33 GTR brace off one of those idiots that think my strut towers are bent. It has a few scratches on it so it will get powdercoated as well. After Bathurst it was time to fit my new door trims properly,,,so off came the left one and I thought why not get some weight out of the door 1st. So after some very careful grinding with this excellent Medalist 1/4 inch die grinder I removed most of the intrusion bar. The pressed brackets are still mostly there but I'd had a few beers and called it quits before I f**kked the door skin. Just as a side note,,,I was going to buy the disc arbor from bunnings but it was 20 bucks,,so with my little lathe I made my own,,left hand thread and all and it workes a treat. After reading lots of bullshit on the interweb about how much a R33 intrusion bar actually weighs,,,heres the truth,,,no not 10 kilo's a side,,,I still have maybe 200grams left to cut out. I was thinking about removing the central locking but the actuator and wiring weigh 100 grams,,,so I'll leave it. I'd love to work out a way of converting the electric windows to manual,,, but so far no luck. I might have to buy a regulator and somehow weld a spline onto the reg for a handle. Thats a job for later though. Cheers Neil.

I was always of the opinion that front strut braces did nothing and were just rice factor and I thought all those really cool alloy ones were just a really cool wank. Well seems I'm wrong. I've had a Whiteline one the car for donkeys years and as a street car I could never feel any difference. Now all that has changed,,,check out the pics. The left side has an 8mm drill stuffed in there and the right side has a 5mm drill also stuffed in there. They were nice and flat before and now have big kinks in the mounting plates So the upshot of this is it's time to look for a very stiff replacement. Cheers Neil.

Heres a pic of my battery at the Australian Hillclimb Nationals in QLD that was deemed illegal. Cheers Neil