S13 Silvia

Bozz, Just from curiosity, what happens when you blow a diff? As I think that will be happening to me soon... Brian

Just as a final post, I found the problem a while back. I connected the white/purple wire from the ignition relay (on the rb20det engine loom - little green box) to a blue/red wire (I think) going into the fusebox that connects to the 30amp ignition fuse as per the wiring diagram. Also, I had connected pin 16 (eccs relay) to the eccs relay on the silvia engine bay loom but I had to also have it connected to the orange wires coming out of the skyline engine loom ignition and eccs relay's. And she started!!! much to the delight of me. Originally I didn't have the ignition and eccs relay's on the skyline engine loom connected because I had connected the wires to the corresponding wires on the silvia engine bay loom and assumed that there were the corresponding relay's in the fusebox. Thanks to everyone that helped especially blind_elk. Thanks mate.

What temperature could the coolant be on a cold start and on a 40* + day. The reason I'm asking is I'm looking at buying a water temp. gauge and want to know the best temp. range to cater for.

Yep, fuel pump is definantly working. I can hear it and the fuel lines are pulsating. My tacho isn't connected so I can't read off that. Where abouts do I connect the timing light? And it's a bastard to rip out my coil's and spark plug's out of an rb engine compared to my old ca!

I've been cranking my rb20 over the past few days trying to work out why it isn't receiving spark. This means that there would be fuel entering the cylinder's but not getting fired. Over repeated attempts to start it, could this non-burnt fuel build up in the spark plug gap so that by the time I find the problem, it wouldn't fire anyway coz of the build up of fuel? Or would the build up in the gap be minimal if at all?

blind_elk, I established that the injector's are firing so it is the spark. I haven't disconnected the CAS, I got it started in the halfcut and haven't altered it since. If by igniter pack, u mean the power transistor, I don't know if it is ok but I'm assuming it is as it worked before and all connections are in it. The earth wire which is black with silver dots and goes onto a screw on the igniter pack is connected. Cams haven't been touched. If I do what you said with the CAS, if it does fire, what does this tell me? and vice versa, if it doesn't fire, what does this tell me? I've run a diag from the stock ecu and it is all clear. And no, I didn't spin the engine over and get oil pressure before I went to start it. Any ideas?

Just tried to start it and was trying to turn but didn't have enough charge. Changed the battery and she started crankin.....but not firing. Air, fuel and spark. The fuel is right, as there is pressure and I've changed the fuel inlet and fuel return pipes over to no avail. Air is right as there is nothing blocking the inlet piping and I've tried starting it with full throttle. I'm thinking either fuel injector's or spark plug's/coil's. I got it started when it was sitting in the halfcut so I don't think the actual injector's, plug's or coil's are faulty but perhaps I've missed a ground wire or even a positive wire for it. What are the critical wires to connect for the fuel injectors and/or the spark plug's. Are there any unusual grounds that anyone knows of that I might've looked over? Any help appreciated. BTW - It is an r32 rb20det What are the standard ways of checking that the injectors and spark plugs are getting charge without having to access the coil's?

Thanks dude. I think I've seen the oil pressure switch before, just wasn't sure if it was that or the detonation sensor. I can understand why I didn't see the detonation sensor's now as they would be quite hard to see directly under the manifold.

As the title says, I can't the find the oil pressure switch or the detonation sensor's on my r32 rb20det. Can anyone help?

The genuine nissan filter is cheaper than the ryco filter at repco. What other genuine parts are often cheaper than brand name parts and which are better?

I assume everything you stated there would expect for the brakes

Yes you can but the AFM will still be connected to the engine loom. Just unplug it from the AFM housing and the AFM will be by itself.

I've just put an rb20det into my silvia and am chasing some servicing info. Need to know spec. and capacity of Oil, Coolant, Gearbox Oil, Clutch Fluid, Power Steering Fluid and Diff Oil. Any help appreciated!

Does anyone have a diagram which shows the R32 RB20DET ECCS Ecu's pinouts?

So the go seems to be 12psi on dead stock? Is this 12psi at the throttle or 12psi before the cooler? Also, I'll have a R33 GTS-t fuel pump, will this be substantial for this level of boost on a R32 RB20DET and prevent it leaning out?

What are the stock compression figures for the R32 GTS-T RB20DET? I'm after the psi figure not the ratio. And if anyone's knows what the workshop manual specifies as the minimum acceptable psi and the minimum acceptable difference between cylinder's is, that would be good as well. Cheers

sure does! It's a bast**d. I got my mate to steer it lock to lock on the spot and drive slowly steering lock to lock and going over bumps and I couldn't work out what it was. I oiled all the joints I touched and also WD-40'd everything at a different time and it had no effect. No idea! But over the weekend, I ran up the ass of a Magna (woman driver.....even though technically it's my fault ) and also lost 3 demerit points! So that problem hasn't been at the forefront but it would be good to know wtf it is!

Yes! That is the exact same problem I'm having!!! Please let me know how you go. Mine happens when you turn all the way or go over a speed bump as you said.

Yeah, I fixed it within a week I bought a castor rod $95 at local import wrecker and a Left Transverse Link Assembley (suspension arm) for $40 including postage off another car enthusiast. I unbolted the old suspension arm and castor rod and fitted the new stuff, it wasn't too hard when you think about it except I had trouble getting some of the bolts off (needed at least 2 people's torque) but now when I steer sometimes I get a light banging noise and I've tried to find out what it is but to no avail, I'm still trying to find out.

Nother pic of subs

Pic of sub

- 200SX S15 Front Spoiler $250 - 2 x 12" 900W US Turbo Subs in perspex front ported box $250 Both in mint condition, no scratches, bumps, or waves and subs pump. 0415506085

Yep, hit the front left tyre hard into a gutter trying to drift...... The front left castor rod has snapped off and the control arm is bent + the brakes make an awful scraping noise when I brake + the wheel is back (towards the back of the car) more than it should be and is pretty loose. What have I done? Is it fixable? Have I dont any permanent damage? What parts would I need? Is it a job I can do at home? How much would I be looking at for parts and labour?

Yep, hit the front left tyre hard into a gutter trying to drift...... The front left castor rod has snapped off and the control arm is bent + the brakes make an awful scraping noise when I brake + the wheel is back (towards the back of the car) more than it should be and is pretty loose. What have I done? Is it fixable? Have I dont any permanent damage? What parts would I need? Is it a job I can do at home? How much would I be looking at for parts and labour?

ok, I'm soon going to be buying a r32 rb20det front cut to transplant into my silvia. What I want to know is, what do you guys reckon I should do to the engine before I put her in. I'm thinking oil (obviously) coolant (obviously) gearbox oil hose clamps and maybe hoses timing belt? Also, what is the textbook method for "flushing" the cooling system and lubrication (oil) system? How involved is it to change the timing belt and re-set the timing properly (I don't want my valve's hitting my piston's ) Also, people have recomended to me that I change all the belts, but I don't think I will because if the power steering, air cond. or alternator stop working, I'll know about it and it won't cause any damage except for the cost of a new belt and/or battery. Is that right? The oil pump and water pump are driven through the timing belt aren't they?