Careless

And thank you, specifically, for being the only person who understands what I was asking for.

they'll both hold up fine. as long as it can keep the pressure up, which either a walbro or a gtr pump will be able to do, in the case of N/A. So get whatever is cheaper for you. GTR comes with 300hp factory. and can pump for about 400 or more. so you'll be fine with either.

And one more thing, since apparently I'm a leech. Before you go accusing me of leeching and bringing nothing to this board, I ask you to take a look at this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3209531 Not only did i post my findings, but I went a step further to help you guys find parts where other parts are hard to come by. Just in case someone down the road needed the information that I went around searching for.... I was hoping that by this time, someone would have a similar listing of parts for the bottom end. Is it to much to ask someone to do the same, or at least even less? (no sleuthing involved in RB30 crank gears, just a part number). Sorry for asking.

you can't beat the c6 z06 from factory for dollar-power ratio and for what you get. it'll only get even better when they release the supercharged version with the new LS9 engine. but then it wouldn't apply to this thread.

It's silly to judge by what you hear too, because pinging and knocking is most often inaudible to humans in the first place. It's only serious knocking that you hear. Sometimes it's already weakened the pistons by that time.

beautiful. do you have any threads with more info, or a build-up thread? congrats on a job (well) done!

Good info, but I'm sure you understand when building a fun project is just something you'd like to try. Regardless of it's outcome. Heck, I could always either just increase gasket height or install new pistons down the road, and turbo it again. That's not an issue with me. And in regard to air intake and exhaust, you're probably right that there are better alternatives. But then again, if I REALLY cared to have the ultimate best for a Z, I would have gotten an LS7 or something and installed corvette C4 suspension all around, and done something like that. And regarding the bore size, my pistons are 87 mm anyways. It's the stroke that is going to be interesting. The engine is almost square in terms of bore stroke. We'll see what happens. I just got my engine back from a person who I thought was a machinist, but infact he's just a builder. I'm taking it to a machinist who is closer now, and I'm actually going to start getting things done. All I have to buy is the balancer, flywheel, and bearings, and then I'm ready to start giving the machinist some parts. Again, I'll keep you guys posted. I'm just building it to see what I can do with it, that's all to be honest. And agian, it's not going into a skyline or anything big like that. It's going into a small datsun 280z you guys call em 260z.

First of all. Incase you guys didn't notice. I live on the side of the planet where neither RB of any kind was available. Finding parts is not the easiest thing to do, and while you guys don't have to cross reference anything, I DO. and I've tried. It's not as easy as you think, especially when the RB30 isn't even listed in the resources that I have available. Infact, I don't even know anyone with an RB30 FSM, let alone a F.A.S.T CD catalogue. Only the RB20, 25, and 26 (and a 28, for some reason) are listed in the FAST catalog. THAT IS WHY im asking for cross ref parts. If you buy RB30 parts, then you would get the part number on the bag. If someone was kind enough to give me THAT part number, then I could use the RB30 one too, and I wouldn't have to guess at RB25 and 26! I CANT DO THAT because in order for me to place a parts request for an RB part at a dealership here, I need to know the EXACT PART NUMBER. They don't have the overseas cars on their FAST system here, but they do have access to the parts tree, and can get the parts if I supply the number them. Just as an example ,the RB26 and RB25 crank gear are 88 and 22 dollars respectively. THATS WHY i'd like to know what works, or if someone can give me the part numbers for the RB30. Because the RB25 one is 3 times less, and if I had the RB30 number itself, I could just order that and be done with. Excuse me? Hard learned knowledge? IM ASKING FOR A PART NUMBER. I'm not asking to leech information, I was asking if someone could look through the SAME PARTS catalogue or SAME resources they have when ordering parts for themselves, or if anyone know which parts will work on said crank snout, as I'm being hopeful that someone has once tried. IT'S NOT THAT HARD WHEN YOU HAVE ACCESS TO LOCAL PARTS INFORMATION. GET IT? Good. When you DON'T have access, you need to have someone look it up for you. So excuse me if I think that that the lack of response is pathetic. Maybe it's because you don't get what I really need. I'm not asking for someone to cough up their findings (whatever the hell you think those are). I'm just asking for a simple part number that I KNOW you guys have ordered before. ESPECIALLY SINCE the easiest way to take the damn thing off when rebuilding an engine is to BREAK IT OFF. EVERYTHING i've asked for has been something that someone somewhere on this forums has bought EASILY because it's available to them. When you buy a crank sprocket from Nissan, you could just ask them what you need, whether you know the part number or not, and the PART NUMBER would be on the bag when you pick it up. THERE IS NO RESEARCH INVOLVED because you guys have regular parts stock at your local dealerships. Another one. You don't even know what I'm asking for either. I KNOW WHAT HAS TO BE REPLACED. IM asking for the NUMBERS that I can use to ORDER IT. why are you making it so difficult? You don't need to be a mechanic or work at Nissan to have the answers. It's pretty "bloody obvious" that you're just jumping on the "lets hate Careless" bandwagon to get your word in. Next time read my post before you reply. Do you understand why I find it pathetic that no one has this information now? Especially since I've seen a number of parts numbers for other stuff around this board? Don't accuse me of being bitter when it seems like people are withholding information for reasons I do not know. I tend to find this board good in terms of technical knowledge, which is why i asked here, in hopes of someone knowing the parts numbers. It seems as though everyone (even people I've seen in threads regarding RB30 rebuilds) are ignoring what I'm asking. Fair? Sorry for the attitude but your reasons for not helping suck too, especially when you don't understand what I'm looking for, which wasn't too hard to gather if you've read the 3 or 4 threads that I've made in the first place, which were asking the same questions in different formats so maybe it would be easier to understand. Again, I despised saying it, but it is pretty pathetic. I wasn't asking for tricks, I was asking for simple info like "hey for the water pump, you could use any RB25/26 bolt, yada yada yada I don't know why this blew up like it did. Oh wait, yes I do. because you guys didn't even properly read what I was asking kindly for. And I asked for it 3 times and waited. Also, incase you didn't notice, I was going to do this so I could append it to cubes guide, or atleast make one of my own, but I'm not sure if I want to even bother anymore. Raff

I hate to sound rude, but the fact that people who claim to have built these engines reply to every thread on this site, yet can't answer this one with any sort of information regarding small block parts like bolts and whatnot is pretty pathetic. I'm sure there are plenty of builders out there who have done this time and time again. Is it so much to ask which parts you guys use to REPLACE worn parts on a RB30 block? Come on fellas. Raff

I'm not sure whether we understand the question or not. can you rephrase?

Hey dudes, I'm wondering if anyone has some part numbers regarding certain Items that are commonly replaced on RB30's during a complete tear down and rebuild. Does anyone have a list of things they usually use when building these engines, or atleast what engines they borrow them from. My main concern is the rear seal, and the bolts for it. can I use an RB25 unit with success, or would an RB26 unit make more sense? should I buy bolts from the RB25 or 26 block for the water pump and all that. What about the key way? and how about that crank drive gear and the washers for and aft? basically, anything internal or has to do with the bottom end that needs replacing, or should atleast be replaced since we're down there... let me know! I'm trying to put together a somewhat more complete parts list that perhaps cubes can attach to his guide, or can be hosted on my website when I get around to it. Much appreciated, fellas Raff

What make was the single row bearing type, and is that the difference between the RB26 and 25 versions? which nissan part number is the double row, I can cross it in the Nissan FAST system. Thanks cubenator!

well. the pistons are 1200 dollars new. i'm getting them for 600, still new, but not useful to the current owner. therefore, whether they are heavy or not, I bought them because it's a steal of a deal. sure it's a little heavy for N/A, but whatever. I'm sure they've got a deep crown, and that they can be machined quite a bit.

still no reason for the different part numbers? come on.

awesome. My only beef with the pistons is that the dome height and the dome volume attribute to their weight, sitting at 411 grams per. I might get them machined out to lighten them to 350 grams if possible.

Always coming through adriano. how do i send you a 24 of Toronto's own beer 1 thou proud is over the deck, correct? with a 1.2mm gasket, that would mean i could get .46 quench area, correct? I guess I should shoot for .36? what's everyone's thoughts on quench with the RB head, some engines require different quench is what I hear, depending on combustion chamber design. is decking the head a smidgen usually a good thing? the pistons are 16cc dome. however, wiseco states that the RB26 head is 66cc. I don't think that's correct, therefore, I've already got a leg up on the compression, being that usually heads are 64cc and thereabouts. I think their combustion chamber was polished.

Hi everyone. I have a fellow board member who wants to sell me some custom wiseco forgies, with wrist pins and rings and locks. 87mm 1.260 compression height .165 dome rise 16cc dome volume what i've been told is that I can get 11:1 compression by decking the block to get the piston out of the bore by 0.01 inches, get a 1.2 mm (0.47) headgasket, and shave the head to achieve 60cc's or whatever is required to get 11:1. they are for RB25/30 combo, but I'm using an RB26 head. is this a good idea. by that, i mean, is using the headgasket area an ideal way of building up the quench, or should it ideally be built up using the block and piston at 0 over or under the deck? does anyone know if the valve clearances will be an issue with 8.7mm cams? Also, what if i want to go higher at one point? will i be able to, if increase the lift (after making the head compatible with the longer/higher cams), and still not hit the pistons? they are originally to obtain a 9.3:1 CR, so I think they will be pretty close to what I need. But then again, wiseco measured up their RB26 head at 66cc. So It's possible that by putting this into a head with lets say.... 64cc, i'd have closer to 9.8 or something to start with. I've posted a picture. The reason I ask is that I'm getting this set (brand new) for half the price of a custom set from a distributor, and it's also free shipping too. my machinist wants to know if they will be compatible with this setup before i buy it, but I think it is, and i have a feeling he's gonna say no. (im also posting this in both the n/a and engine forums, because there is no "general engine" forum ,and i'd like both turbo and n/a enthusiasts to be able to view this and help me out. Thanks )

Hi everyone. I have a fellow board member who wants to sell me some custom wiseco forgies, with wrist pins and rings and locks. 87mm 1.260 compression height .165 dome rise 16cc dome volume what i've been told is that I can get 11:1 compression by decking the block to get the piston out of the bore by 0.01 inches, get a 1.2 mm (0.47) headgasket, and shave the head to achieve 60cc's or whatever is required to get 11:1. they are for RB25/30 combo, but I'm using an RB26 head. is this a good idea. by that, i mean, is using the headgasket area an ideal way of building up the quench, or should it ideally be built up using the block and piston at 0 over or under the deck? does anyone know if the valve clearances will be an issue with 8.7mm cams? Also, what if i want to go higher at one point? will i be able to, if increase the lift (after making the head compatible with the longer/higher cams), and still not hit the pistons? they are originally to obtain a 9.3:1 CR, so I think they will be pretty close to what I need. But then again, wiseco measured up their RB26 head at 66cc. So It's possible that by putting this into a head with lets say.... 64cc, i'd have closer to 9.8 or something to start with. I've posted a picture. The reason I ask is that I'm getting this set (brand new) for half the price of a custom set from a distributor, and it's also free shipping too. my machinist wants to know if they will be compatible with this setup before i buy it, but I think it is, and i have a feeling he's gonna say no. (im also posting this in both the n/a and engine forums, because there is no "general engine" forum ,and i'd like both turbo and n/a enthusiasts to be able to view this and help me out. Thanks )

SUCCESS Belt Guide: Upper Tensioner Relocation Method. Required Belt Length: 1216 mm Required Belt Width: 25 mm Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear Required Number of Teeth: 152 Compatible Belts: Gates T291 Goodyear Gatorback 40291 Bosch BT866 Dayco 94680 Dayco 94407 Continental Contitech CT919 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier) Factory Position - Dual Lower Tensioner Method. Required Belt Length: 1200 mm Required Belt Width: 23 to 25 mm Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear Required Number of Teeth: 150 Compatible Belts: Gates T306 Goodyear Gatorback 40306 Bosch BT306 Dayco 94777 Continental Contitech CT909 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier) Gates PowerGrip GT2 1200-8MGT-30, cut down to 25mm from 30mm at factory (still pending) This is a list of belts that i've compiled through comparing my new T291 belt to the stock SOHC dayco replacement belt for the RB30E. It fit exactly the same around the crank sprocket, so I did some sleuthing and cross referencing, and this is a list of belts that SHOULD be compatible. When I say SHOULD, I mean that someone mentioned the GT2 to be compatible, and it was not. These belts are in comparison to the level of compatibility shown by the GT2. Even if you've got a GT2 on your DE conversion, it most likely does not fit as well as these ones listed above do.

deleted, see below

hi everyone. Update. Got the Gates T291. Seems to be the same belt as dayco 94407. Will check it when I get home. Couldn't get the gatorback belt, but I think it will be ok compared to the Dayco belt that was used on the SOHC that came with my engine. definately not as thick as the PowerGrip GT2, but I guess I'll have to roll with it. The belt still looks damn sturdy. Found it for 70 bucks at one place (with dealer discount), and 56 bucks with taxes inc. at a place near my work, so the gentleman who works there had ordered it for me. Tooth pitch and tooth profile looks to be right. Maybe a bit curvilinear, but somewhat trapezoidal as well. I don't think it's going to be a problem. It's also 25mm on spot, so I think we got the right one here. Alternatively, one could use the T306, but I'm going to go ahead and get my machinist to drill and tap the top hole. New question: where do I get a tensioner stud, or should I just go to a bolt manufacturer and get a new bolt that is the same as the one that's already on the block? Thanks for the replies guys. We're makin' progress here

Update: The Bosch BT866 mentioned in the RB30 guide seems to be correct. It is cross referenced as an AEB 1.8 Audi Quattro belt, with the same teeth and pitch as the T291, Gatorback, and Dayco that I've mentioned. Therefore, If they work when I buy it tomorrow (not running the engine yet, though), I will message cubes and ask him to append the Timing Belt portion of his PDF.

Found that the Gates T291 is cross-referenced as the following belts: Dayco 94680 - same specs as the 94407 Goodyear Gatorback 400291 - same specs on goodyear page. I'll be buying whichever I can get my hands on tomorrow, most likely the gatorback, then the gates, then the dayco as final shot. I think they use Modified Curvilinear rather than trapezoidal shaped teeth, but MC teeth are pretty darn close to Trap teeth anyways, so I don't think it will be a problem. We'll see. =)

New data: Gates T291 is for Audi 1.8 cylinder turbo (AEB) engines it has a 8mm pitch and is 1216mm long and 25mm wide. Gates T306 is also for audi engines it has 8mm pitch and is 1200mm long and 23mm wide. I think I'll be going with the T291, if I can find a replacement made by Goodyear with the Gatorback style belt material.

there seems to be no gates t866 belt, anywhere. not even on their website. however, i found the gates t306 belt, and the T167R belt. the t306 is 150 teeth and for audi and vw engines the t167r is 153 teeth and is for mitsubishi engines hmmmmmmm