700HP-GTR33

So Ronin... If I had all these on his car...I should be pushing around 450rwkws?...great...remember we are talking RB26(GTR),,..not RB25(GT-ST) So with dumps...a GTR can achieve 350rwkw's....good for the tuner that has boosted the thing to 2 Bar...and runs Nitro when he tunes his car. As for the concrete evidence...read the RB26 stick...lol.....and then stop guessing yourself.. I am sick and tired of an attack on some-ones experience and knowledge in this Forum...... You have not told him any way of getting his power up ......or if the Dumps are a good add on. You have never changed or installed turbo's...and the turbo's has been said earlier in this topic that it can be done with the turbo's on..but requires lots of f%^king around(SO A DOUBLE POST). So instead of being constructive...you have been destructive....

To get around 350kw's you will need...cams...larger or Nismo type Afm's.....adjustable cam gears...A/M Turbo's...N1 or 2530's...computer...boost controller... and a good tune.... Dumps are the least of your problems.....but with the above set up they will spool up the turbo alot quicker..ie less lag for you........ Cheers... Oh the answer to your question...do not see why you need to remove the turbo's to fit the dumps(HKS)

It is not just about how many.....what figures.....car doesn't have enough horses...etc..etc...it is not a dyno race..though some people think it is. The car needs to feel right,handle well and not loose traction..... I have a 0 to 100km an hour figure at 4.5seconds and the quarter mile at 11.8. The car is driven everyday and I have chosen a safe tune with less boost(1.25 Bar) to make it last alittle longer. Oh Beer Baron...sorry did not read your post...double posted all the goodies you get with the HKS kit. Cheers...good luck with your venture

A little while ago this topic was discussed in great detail..... All of the turbo's Made by Garrett came identical or a whisker short in the specs compared to the HKS ones. The good thing is that HKS give you all the other goodies to go with the install...gaskets..washers...bolts...copper washers etc etc etc....... HKS also have a special actuator...heavy duty that they have made especially for themselfs....but this is just to make a difference in the two product. I believe the AWKW's compared to rwkw's is a strongly debated item in this Forum. But I was told by many in over these last few years that awkw's x 1.2=rwkw's. Cheers

I agree... Better yet .....get a blank sheet and draw your own graph...lol This is what I would do... :laughing-smiley-014:

Hello all......2530's for street.....unless you can drive at 250km's an hour....then I would suggest the gt-rs...lol Most fine tuners in japan use HKS2530's or GT2860R-5 garrett......garrett make the 2530's........ It is all in the tune......plus cams go along way........ I run 2530's...with poncams260 I have a large list of modes you will need if you want the whole thing purring nicely. Look up on RB26 modification sticky.........I am happy with my set up although my suspension needs to be a bit softer...these roads in Melbourne stink. Anyway..if you were in Melbourne I would have taken you for a quick spin........ My choices were like yours......but 2530's/.-5 Garretts was my decision and I do alot of research before I choose anything.

I think it may be some of these things that could be doing this....oxygen sensor?....Air sensor....(Try changing your afm with somebody else).....Injectors need cleaning........or your computer has a problem with fuel/air flow settings at idle... I have also heard of some other person on this site that his fmic hoses were loose....so low air flow was being delivered at idle(Like a pump(air) into a fish tank...at very low pressures it just stops delivering)......I am to check mine tomorrow ... Cheers and good luck finding your problem

Hello Maffia...new avatar...congrates on the tune..... Just wanted to make sure about this curve everyone is talking about. I have had a tune at 5km's an hour intervals ...you have 15km's an hour intervals..... Is this why your graph looks so much better than mine... Did not mean to high-jack this thread...it is just interesting that the curves with 15km's an hour tuning results end up so linear...ie there is no figures it can plot between each reading..... I personally would get the tune mapped at 5km's an hour intervals...showing all the figures and then you may be able to see if the tune is linear or not.ie..the torque has only three plots to take this from...350 to 650....Nm one at 350 one at around 520 then the last at 650... So if I am not mis-taken...all your tune results were plotted from 8....(that is correct) points...which is not a good indication...although it will give you such a good looking graph Cheers.

+1.. First time ash...lol Did you tell them for 2.......does sound to good...might get my old turbo's done...if thats the case Let us know if that is the price...he will be swamped with orders. Cheers

Thanks Bec...have printed the page ...and am going to send it at the end of the Month.

Might not be worth the money to re-build. What have you been quoted....?New N1's and ss type turbo's are around $2300 today

I have been told that....even if the revs are at 950 when cold..more fuel is being delivered,,,could this be normal... The car is not missing or stalling at this rev.. I cleaned the pod filters last time and the start was healthy...1500rpm...but this went back again to the same revs after a few weeks...... Might try this again... I am using a power fc...can anyone tell me what the figures should be in the idle/temp.area of the program and also the acc....off and on ....

Open and re-weld your afm...there is a Diy thread on this.....have you checked fuel pressure.... Edited...sorry...you have done this already...afm's that is

Ignitor and cables get alot of heat and can be damaged....also you could be missing because the ignitor is not earthed properly.....Have you got the cover off and the ignitor loose or is it screwed down on cover? The cost of a new ignitor plus cables is big bucks from nissan... You will need a car elec. to rewire the whole loom,,,this is a cheaper option if the ignitor is good... Cant see any other reason this is happening......have you checked your injectors? Bad pump,injectors and afm's can also play around with missing problems and with afm's running problems... Cheers

Don't think they are in order..lol...Bugatti Veyron got 11 or something... I think it is just a list of the fastest cars ever produced

And some more info for you

Hope this helps you

I meant non turbo 911's and non 4 wheel drive ferraris...this is what the mums and dads drive......GT3 or Enzo is another story. And yes....I was wrong with the 3.6 litre...36 was the next series number..thanks Rezz Thanks boys...I still stand my statements(In regards to 2 models 1-for the mums and dads,1 for the enthusiat) and only time will tell if I am right or wrong.And by the way...it is going to be a commercial flop...but we will have a toy to play with in a few years time..lol

Did I hear that cams for an extra 10kw's top end will cost too much $$$$vs performance... It is not about the top end...it will spool faster and your turbo will kick in lower and give a better power result..in real world driving...not dyno type driving...ffs at 7500RPM.lol

I was reading today that gtr coils are the best....but costs are higher...therefore you will need to get spitfires...when replacing yours. On the other hand if coils were checked.....then either your crank angle sensor or something else is wrong....your timing is being thrown out some-how. Borrow some coils if you don't want to buy them...this will let you know straight away. I have a set...if you want to plug them in and check...(RB26..are they the same?)I think they maybe. Cheers.

Yes the list goes on and on.....until you have built a car that you can barely drive...your clutch will give your neck muscles.....the noise will deafen you.. the cops will be harassing you and your parent will be praying for you. But back to the topic........this bitching about all this RWKW's and AWKW's and some has 350rwkw's and some one with the same mods has 230rwkw's has to stop.... We all have to know that these are just figures and can not relate to drive...performance day to day...If she is a guzzler...or just a pig to drive with bad..hard or too soft suspension... Really boys......it is time for a dyno day...to back up these figures most of you say you have... Same dyno same settings and conditions.........then most of you can put your readings down and some of you can put your readings up.... Oh by the way.....change your turbo's...boost it up to 20psi...get some rocket fuel or advan....and rev it to 7500RPM... This will give you a great result and then you can rave about how your car is 300rwkw's.....lol

V36GT-R....bottom left of page...unsure what the rest of the Japanese writing is after that though. Mums and dads is a Phrase....It really means...executives,movie stars,politicians with money,Eddie Macguire type individual.......with no Knowledge on cars. Non enthusiasts...most people who buy a Porsche...for the image............So these are the people that they want to sell the car to.IMAGE IMAGE IMAGE Not one will see the track...this is why two motors I believe have been developed.....As stated to me by a Nissan Sales Rep.Not that is 100%.... Why are you so defensive,,,why are all you moderators so defensive and up tight.....this is general discussion.......you have been warned...get off my back...lol

Hello all.. I start my car in the morning to see it sit at 950 to 1000rpm...temp outside s 20oc.(RB26) It was previously after idling for 15 to 20 seconds decides it needs to warm and idles higher over 1200rPM. This has gotten worse and in the mornings now it just sits at 950 to 1000RPM. Can a water temp. sensor be at blame...do these die slowly....or is it something else? Can I replace it myself or does the motor have to come out..lol Any help will be appreciated.

Did you notice its displacement on the left bottom of the page......3.6L... There must be two types...one for the mums and dads.....4L turbo...and one for th serious,...3.6LTT. I have heard this though but though it was also a marketing scam for responce.

So true.........you notice GM never said anything about viruses. They should have added..... 11- After you drive off a warning light flashes and a voice says to you" Buy this product for your fuel or your car will explode.... The car then directs you to a MS(Microsoft Station) where your car is injected with PETROL_LOCK...lol which is infact the next virus they are going to scam you on...you pay $9.95,$19.95,$29.95.$39.95,$49.95 or $59.95. This amount all depends on which country you live in,how much you can afford or if you like Americans. Or sometimes none of the above...just because they can. If you neglect this warning..strange things happen to the car...indicators turn on by themselfs,speedo stops etc. Two weeks later the same light flashes and your next MS Stop is required.