700HP-GTR33

Check to see if your cat is still home.

Even though I don't know what his on about. Clearly a bookworm...with lots of time to study

You have to peel the Orange...both taste different...grow at different times of the year in the same location. NO..........my point ....they are as different as a women vs, men Just because these two cars have 4 tyres....thats were it ends.(there similarities.) Buy the REX........or if you really want a car(Real car)...go gtst33.

Yeah...I want to make one up just for people who post. Hey...I was just thinking....I can either buy a Datsun 200B or a Enzo Ferrari. Not quite sure which one...now don't be biased..let me know what you guys and gurls thinking. FFS ...it is a general discussion topic......have your say...don't have a pick on someone.. You haven't even had a say...

Check your fuel pressure.....more than likely the Fuel pump caused the blow up of the first motor. Was the motor working prior to the install....could have seized up...try turning manually. Check also if there is power through the ignitor box...and spark is occuring. Did you plug in the computer......could be loose. Their can be many reasons for this.......you need to go through all the steps. Hope I have been of some help. Cheers.

I also believe this can be caused by AFM maxing out........this can also light up the engine light. Need to check voltage at this point...

No piggy backs...lol They are limited in some tunning options. Motec is the way to go. Find a tuner who has used it and go from there.

This topic was posted not long ago dude....the difference being a new WRX or R32. Still the price comparison is too large. Compare a WRX 98 to a GTR32........ You are like, I have said before. comparing apples to oranges...2 to 4 door...rear to 4 wheel drive...93 model to 98...7K to 18K. You are not serious enough to own either one........ But if you are buy the WRX...newer and is not the bargain basement priced item of the two..

It might be your AFM.......give it a dust out...while you are at it clean your filter/ This sometimes can cause your problem. It seems to me like a air/fuel problem...you said it just started to happen....so your tune might be fine. My nephews car use to cut out on him...until he re-soldered and cleaned his AFM's. Could also be your injectors...put some injector cleaner in your tank. Good luck finding your fault.

When you install cams...you need to put them in at 0 degree..I think they call it drop centre. There is lots of talk about this on the Forum...do a search. You then dial the cam gears to adjust the cams. Am I reading you guys right here. More than likely the Supra cams or cam gears were installed incorrectly....it is easy to make a mistake .

Change your boost controller to one that is a single stage....

How do you moniter boost then? What boost are you running? More than likely...I bet the boost of the one turbo is not matched with the other then. Do you know if the actuators are set at the same boost? Get a boost controller.AVCR....is the best This has a self learn program which alters the turbo's boost according to how you drive.

Do you have a boost controller? What make and model?

I am just trying to figure out why it has gone away on mine.... Are new turbo's tighter in the wheel construction? Do you need to break in a Turbo....get it to loosen a little maybe. Has anyone had this thing on anew turbo that has slowly gotten quieter? Or is it as I had stated....you just get use to the noises...

I don't think the tune actually fixed mine,it was their after the turbo's where fitted and tuned......and went away slowly. Does the AVCR boost controller learn from excessive flutter and driver behaviour? I have an AVCR boost controller...and seeing that it creates/controls boost it can also slow the spikes...maybe. I wonder if the boost controller is controlling my flutter? Just my 2c

If you mean the 9.15 lift PONCAMS....they are stated that a 0 intake and 0 exhaust is best,for stock motor. You have after market turbo's so -2 or -3 on intake and -4 to -6 on exhaust is the area I would be experimenting on in the tune. Good luck....A 5 to 6 hour tune is required to get them spot on.

I believe the intake wheel of the Turbo slows down when you back your pedal off or change gears. The excess amount of air is pushed back onto the incoming air it has tried to create. Thus causing fluttering, the longer you drive around the softer this sound becomes. the harder you push the car...the better the sound becomes

Turbo's ,especially 2530(-5)or GTRS(-10) for a gtr need some mods. 1-Exhaust should be at least 3" right through...including CAT.(Air) 2-Fuel pump replaced to NISMO with regulator.(Fuel) 3-A tune is required with an after-market ECU. You don't expect more power when the Engine is in a mild state of tune...do you? How do you expect things work...get a Turbo('s) that is larger and assume the car will be better...wrong? You made the right choice with the 2530's...you just have not been listening to what every-one is saying. Get yourself an ECU and get a tune

I have the same turbo's.....I though the same as you. The turbo's sounded like they were fluttering......but all is normal. Get a tune and wait a little while. I don't notice this anymore on mine..either the surges have gotten softer or I have got use to them.

Hot dogs/cannons should be larger for trucks....say 10" variety. Is there a market for this......some-one get them built and they will buy..lol

I think it looks a bit to small for a RB26dett con. Do you think he had considered it when he finished the body works I suppose he/she though Vtech in a gtr body would fly.

And he was correct in assuming that. Great Vid.....I want one with 5mile straight.

Or even the organ in the back ground...that should be worth that sort of money

I had looked for black,silver,purple when choosing my gtr...but was unable to find a good example. Did not want white......have had 3 cars in white before.(ALL USED) If we were buying them new..then I would have choose silver or gun metal Most people who choose a second hand car choose these colors to look good . But they seem to neglect other things on the car. All of the gtrs I had viewed (IN A COLOR) seemed to be neglected in other areas The DUCO is not the start..nor the beggining .....so you need to buy the car not the color. I ended up with a white one. I had a Black Lancia many years ago and I swore I would never buy a black car again. The interior was hot in the summer and it was a never ending story trying to keep it looking good. My 2c's worth....hope I have helped.

I have owned both. VN.....harsh motor..last forever. VL...sweet motor...need to look at some repair work..ie head gaskets..etc. Paint work on the VL is a lot better. Most VN's have bad fade marks on DUCO. Series 2 VN are not bad....series 1 has water coolant issues. GO VP ....VN was the first and the worst.... VL was last of the series...this is why they are more sort after. Just my thoughts...... GO VL.......at least they still turn heads.