700HP-GTR33

Congrats....nice car......does this mean we are officially....(because skylines will never be made again ) going to be called the LF-SAU....standing for Lancer former Skylime Club of Australia? I suppose give me a few more years and an Evo will be my first choice in a new car. Great car James...must drive real smooth.

Too many questions for just one thread, just let the people know what you want and if it is possible....

Could it be your Cable going to the throttle body...loose or worn spring inside? Is your pedal tight? Let me guess....checked that tooo Would annoy me too.....blue is such a shit colour

The power that is pushed through the AFM is not 5.1V but by memory 5.7V but do not quote me on the exact figure though could be 5.9V. So then each figure on the air/flow map changes , by memory I was told that this ment the AFM could read 1.4 times more air movement . So then they would read the map previous, and work out the AF/ratios they need to enter on the new map. Which ment each figure on the map had to be worked out and entered in to the ECU. I am not sure how they actually increased the voltage though. Just was told they did

That is correct....heavy throttle just about to climb low revs(3000).in fourth gear. That is where it happened.ok till I hit 5000rpm did not like it after that. But this does not explain why the idles lumpy,infact previously I though it was the idle. So I increased it to 930RPM using the PFC....this did not change the roughness. I will give -2 a go tommorrow mornong and see if this also is good. if this is also fine.....I will try -1 and so on. Stay tuned.... Cheers Tekin

Hello Paul, The knock that occured at 75....was recorded on around 5000 through to 5500 did not push through More than likely it it would have still been occuring at higher revs. 28 degrees is what the hand controller read. The car also has a better idle as stated earlier.Do I only change the Ign timing below 1500RPM then? I would like to meet up at a later date....thanks a million for your help. Cheers

I have heard of tripping the afm ,higher Voltage.(Japan) But the tuners in Australia do not want to work out all the figures to enter into the Ecu after they have done this...........all of them think it is a waste of time. When you send a higher voltage through the unit the tables all change and each point needs to be re-mapped. This is my understanding and why Z32's are so popular with tuners...easy put in and tune.

Did you say you cleaned your Afm's..........did you open them up and re-soldered the joins? Just curious........what colour is the shirt?

On a hot day ,fuel evaporates in the injectors. When you go to start up the engine it needs to crank a few times before it fires up. If you have faulty injectors, they may also play up , this can also be your problem. Run some injector cleaner through the petrol tank a few times to see if this works. When you have driven the car for a while and stop the engine, manufacturers recommend you press on the gas when you go to start it up again. I too have had to wait for the thing to turn over on a hot day before it fires up., Your tune is also at fault....if you have had one. Tuning a car on a cold day then driving it on a hot day plays a big role in your problem. Don't go to much into new radiators ,fmic etc if your not over-heating.

Your TPS needs changing by what I have read on other threads(throttle position sensor) This I believe is located on the Throttle body. Cheers

Next time you are on the track use some boost fuel......this will help. I should have used it at Heathcote, the car was getting slower and slower as the day went on.

I like troys idea on making an outside baffle tank that returns the excess oil up top back to the bottom though. I hate to put restrictors not knowing what they will do in the long run. Anyway can we all overfill our cars by 1 litre and se if this causes us problem? This would be a great test.

Nath....more than likely your tune is on the Jap fuel with rich burn and lots of high end timing. When you are on the track are you using Fuel boost additives...this may be your problem. If the car has been tune in japan....do not thrash it any more untill you get a PFC. Alot of people ....even me...have made that mistake. What oil are you using ?

Thanks again guys for the remarks..... Set back ign as paul indicated......car runs smoother and has not missed tonight. Even going up hill i planted it and all was good...excellaration came on nice and strong. Paul, can I set back the ign by -2degree permanently and see if it happens again? Should I use one of your saved tunes instead and modify it to my mods? And has the tune been conducted in colder weather and this is why this has happened? Lots of question......

Depends..........a 1.3Bar is safe if you have replaced oil pump and timing belt, and provided you have a good tune. Lots of factors come into play when asking whats safe. As far as what I have seen on this site and power levels you should be getting on a standard computer is around 200Kws at all 4 with your mods.Upping the boost 1.3 Bar will give you 230Kws or so. PFC with a safe tune will push both those figures by around 20Kws. Are you sure they are BB....as paul has said.....1Bar max if they are ceramic and not bb.

So the Adj: Reading should read -3 when I enter or +3.

I will give it a go tonight on the way home and in the morning tommrrow. Thanks Paul........just about to ask you what number in the FAQ...bit confused.

Ok for you to say....suppose I'll give it ago. Cheers

Sorry to hear

Thanks for the replies boys, New Pump,new regulator,new coils ,new plugs.......... I do suspect it to be tune or Afms playing up. Still missing everyday even after earthing the ignitor. But then again could be a few things.

Hello all, On the freeway tonight going slightly up hill I put my foot down in fourth gear. As increasing speed the car started to jerk like a mule and the engine light flickered on and off for about 2 seconds. Looked at the PFC handcontroller and had 75 reading on the knock sensor. I have been having some mis-fire problems and it has lead me to believe I have a faulty AFM. Just wanted to know if it could be something else ie TPS(Throttle position sensor)? Any ideas? Thanks in advance Tekin

ARC have a few, I have an ARC Unit it does the job well. Cost around $1300...complete kit.

Do not know where it is on your car, but most cars have them mounted on the firewall in the engine bay. Good luck

Great, Not every-one has the $$$$$$$ to just get the Engine and high flow the oil ports remove it install a baffle , let alone go dry sump.. There still might be a possibility the pump runs out of oil, so then now you suggest a sump extention. The list goes on and on and on....like this thread. Richard, did you understand anything I wrote? My solution was a product that gave us a larger supply of oil that restricts flow at high revsat the top end, simple. This could also supply more oil to the bottom when restricting the top, allowing no low oil levels for the pump. Sydneykid , does this sound stupid or is this why you started this thread in the first place? Cheers Edited: the external sump can be built with a baffle to stop the surge..........it can work.

It is funny how a problem is solved and a question on how it is solved comes up. Then solving the problem leads to creating another problem and the question is asked on how to solve the problem. I feel for you guilt-toy. Low oil levels up the top end will only cause you other problems. We are always learning , making mods and changes and trying to keep the whole thing working out on the track or on our roads. On this issue of over-supply to the top end I am quite baffled. The Oil pump forces oil and at high revs forces to much oil and leaves nothing in the bottom to pick up.The over supply is not hurting the top end and thus the catch can was developed. Oil is needed even at low revs and insufficient supply of oil up the top end is what you might have a problem with.Putting restrictors on the lines to slow the oil only will harm the motor.Cooling is needed quickly for the Pistons and moving components and slowing this flow down will only cause long term problems. Can we look at this question of oil problems in Rb's from outside the square. Is it all possible to have a regulator , that will at higher revs restrict oil flow safely and at low revs remain as factory.Surely this way of thinking is were we should be headed. Making holes for better flow,restricting hoses to slow the volume etc,etc,etc.seems funny to me. I am not an engineer but can see the problem ,Could an external Oil Sump with a regulator be mounted in the engine bay ? This can increase our Oil Supply and restrict flow at high RPM. It would be installed like a cooler and work only for the supply of oil to the top and bottom end. Hope I have not scared anyone ,just my two bobs